Gauge Install question

[Jon P.]

I've got a 1999 K2500 Suburban with the 6.5. I don't have any engine mods yet, and want to start off with a pyro, boost and trans temp gauge located on the A-pillar. I've got this same setup on my 1999 F-350 Powerstroke. I've ordered the gauges and pillar mount and they should arrive next week. I am going with a "clamp-on" thermocouple for the pyro, and I think I understand where to drill and tap the air intake for the boost gauge. What I'm not so sure about is where to put the trans temp sender. In the Ford, it's easy, because there is an unused plug in the side to the transmission housing that the sender bolts right into. I haven't crawled under the Sub to see if there's a similar hole.

For those of you with trans temp gauges and the 4L80E auto trans, where and how do you mount the trans temp sender?

The other question I have is where do you get "dimmed" power for the gauge lights. I'd like the to dim with the sahboard lights, but have no idea what wire to tap into.

Thanks in advance.

Jon

[Johnny B.]

I mounted my trans temp sensor in the pan on the left side, I think two or three bolts back there was enough clearance. I had a fitting brazed in the pan $25. The instructions for the gauge recommended this location. You will find some people mount their sensors in the line to the trans cooler, that way they get the hottest reading. I don't think there is a right or wrong way only personal preference. On the 4L80E you will find a test port on the drivers side, half way back on the trans body and half way up. It is a very small port and my sensor was too big otherwise I would have attempted to use it.

The instructions that I had also had a wiring diagram to wire to the dash lights. It was simple by tapping into one of the wires behind the light switch and grounding the other. I'm not certain of the wire I can check later this moring if you don't have an answer.

[Cowracer]

I dont know if this is a good idea or not, but it works for me. Rather than drilling and tapping a hole in the intake for the boost gauge, I bought a standard pipe nipple and a Tee and used the hole where the temp sensor goes. The sensor goes on one side of the tee and the boost tap is on the other.

T

[jspringator]

Cowracer, I did the same thing - no problems; really simplified installation of boost guage. Got the idea from Patrick M.

[Jon P.]

Thanks for the responses. This is helpful. I'm going to look into the T fitting for the boost gauge.

Jon

[DamienJ]

For the tranny temp: I bought a temp maniflod for autometer and put in-line with the return going into the tanny. pretty simple install.(if you don't mind getting transmission fluid all over the place)
As for the dimming the gauges: I tried to connect behind the dimmer switch on the dash but I don't think that it provides the 12v's, because the gauges flickered sometimes.
Hope some of this helps.

[whatnot]

I had the T fitting on mine but it was screwing up the temperature readings to the computer and cutting back on fuel.
It only takes a few minutes to remove the upper intake manifold and drill and tap it.

[Turbine Doc]

For illumination power get one of those piggy back fuse taps any good auto part store with a fused pigtail for aux circuits, and plug to the instrument power fuse then you have 2 semi separate circuits controlled on dimmer control switch, that is how I ran mine.

[MikeC]

I put my trans temp sensor on the outlet line. It just seemed to me the obvious choice as this is the hottest fluid the you can sense. The return from the cooler is cooled fluid and the pan is basically the same fluid, just that it is lying in the pan.

My $.02

Mike

[ANXIOUS-SUBMAN]

Gauges are my next project also. On the 4L80E which line is the outlet, the one toward the front of the tranny or the rear?

Anyone hear have Auto Meter gauges in "Cobalt"?
Got pics?

[LanceW]

I know this is an old topic, but I have info that might help folks that do a search on it, especially looking for a way to wire their gauges and lighting dimmers.

My '94 has a block of blade connectors behind the parking brake pedal- very easy to tap with female connectors you can buy at Autozone or whatever. The blades labeled "green" are always hot, the "orange" and "blue" are ignition switched, and the two-blade blocks labeled "white" are connected to the instrument dimmer rheostat (top blade hot, bottom ground). Makes for a much easier and cleaner install. I don't know if they are fused, but inline fuse kits are cheap.

I'm no mechanic, and when UPS dropped off my gauges there were a hell of a lot more wires in there than I had hoped to see. Breaking the project down into a bunch of smaller problems to solve one at a time (probes, pod, power wires, light wires, box mounts) made it seem a lot simpler- not worried at all now.

Hope this helps some of you guys who are in the same spot I was.

[fogg65td]

i got all the gagues tha u do and tapping into the radio illumination gave me the adjustment that you are after. for my trans gague i just bought a drain plug from b and m and threaded the sender into the drainplug. this all worked for me but good luck with all of the advice. most of it i think is personal preference.

[fogg65td]

i got all the gagues that u do and tapping into the radio illumination gave me the adjustment that you are after for the illumination. for my trans gague i just bought a drain plug from b and m and threaded the sender into the drainplug. this all worked for me but good luck with yours. most of it is personal preference i think.