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View Full Version : 6.5 Miss/Stumbling Issue Help!



Dominique
09-20-2011, 20:46
I'm stumped please help!!

2000 GMC 1 ton Dually with a 6.5 126,000 miles.

First off after a cold start (60-70F) it runs a bit rough like it's not hitting on all 8, that usually quits after 10 seconds or so and then sounds normal. Next problem is if I head down the driveway and hit the road you can pin the pedal to the floor and maybe hit 30mph in a mile. Once it gets up to normal operating temp full speed operation comes back but there is still a strange stumble/miss/surge while at crusing speed 60 to 65mph.

No noticeable surge under full acceleration, but if I take off from a stop and hold it to the floor until I get up to speed around 60 and back off the throttle it will stumble a few times.

Now here it starts to get more confusing. If I set the cruise control at hwy speed (65) it stumbles when you go down a hill, or on level ground, not feeling it going uphill. It seems like it only happens when your coasting or just under light load to maintain speed, it kinda feels like I lifted the throttle for a second. The stumble can be once in a mile or 10 times, it's random. Now I have noticed that whenever it stumbles there is a noticeable drop in voltage on the gauge, not much but whenever I see the voltage twitch I feel a surge.

Suspecting alternator issues or some kind of electrical problem I disconnected the alt and tried running just off the batteries, and took it for a ride. WEIRD! It runs terrible, has little to no power and struggles all the way, can barely get it up to 55mph. Now I did this at night so I was running the lights aswell. Now I'm confused here because with the alt disconnected I did notice I have no tach so I'm thinking maybe there is no RPM signal going to the computer and that's why it barely moves. Hooked it back up and it's back to normal.

Today after taking it for a quick ride to get it up to temp and returning home to tinker in the driveway I noticed that in park if I slowly apply the throttle and rev it up to 2k it starts to miss, then slowly applying more it will get to just over 2500 and then suddenly jump to over 3000. Maybe this is normal but around 2000 it feels like it fighting against it's self to rev higher.

I tested LP and have 6PSI, good flow, and did not see any air comming out of the 10 ft line. Also replaced this last year because it was rusted out and leaking.

No SES light - I replaced the wastegate controller almost 2 years ago with the GM96 Manual controller and once in awhile I'll set a code for overboost :-) but have not done that lately.

I had the PMD stalling Issue almost 2 years ago and was able to get the dealer to warranty it under the "Special Policy" Thanks to Budroe for the post. I ended up with a whole new IP & PMD so there is maybe 6000 miles since then.

Replaced all glow plugs last winter.

The darm thing idles just fine, and if I only drove it around town under 40mph I would likely not even notice a problem if I make sure it's up to full operating temp before leaving the driveway.

Sorry for the super long post but want to make sure I give as much background as possible.

What else can I check? Maybe I have multiple issue going on but need to start narrowing it down to something becasue it's getting annoying and I'm afraid to go any real distance from home.

Thanks ahead for any input

Robyn
09-21-2011, 07:07
When was the last time the fuel filter was changed ???

The 2000 model is a OBD 2 electronics system and any real issues would/should set a code.

The first thing that comes to mind with the sluggish performance is a plugged fuel filter.

The stumbling/missing when first started could be a bad injector/s

The alternator sends tha tach signal, but that is not a critical issue anyway as that signal is not used to feed the ECM critical data.

Make sure your battery grounds are all good (Both at the battery and the engine)
Check the +++ cables too and make sure that when running that you have about 14Volts at both batteries and at the main power lug at the junction box.

Keep us posted

Missy

Yukon6.2
09-21-2011, 08:04
Hi
What brand of PMD/FSD have you got.
I'v had stumbling/jerking syptoms on deceleration each time my Dtech PMD.FSD started down the road to failure.Each time i switched to a known used PMD/FSD it went away.
The cold start issue you have sounds like the same on my truck,it is still there after the PMD/FSD swap,i'm sure i have a air leak into the fuel system,my truck is inside 24/7 so it's allways warmish and has been getting worse at start.My quess is the fuel filter is got issues.One day i'm hoping to look a little deeper.
Good Luck
Thomas

Dominique
09-21-2011, 19:44
Ok Update time, I spent most of the day removing the driver side exhaust manifold to fix a busted off bolt on the downpipe, old issue but I noticed I had cooked another doughnut and figured I better just get that out of the way.

Fuel filter was replaced about 6000 miles ago just before I got the IP changed. But just to be on the safe side I grabbed a new one today and replaced it anyway. Cleaned it out real good, and it fired right up.

14.1 volts at idle

PMD is Stanadyne or whatever comes on a new IP from GM. The PMD was the issue before cause the cold water trick got it goin when I brought it to the dealer over a year ago. They ended up putting in a whole new IP along with the new PMD. I asked about relocating it and putting on the heatsink but they told me not to because they would not warranty the new unit if I did. I think the warranty is up now so I could move it now.

After I got it all back together and fired it up I can say there is no difference. When I reved it up a bit while still cold, and by cold I mean not up to a full 180deg It realy struggles to get up over about 1700 RPM and can barely rev over 2300 unless your almost to the floor. Once It warmed it it gets better and getting to 2k is not so bad but much higher than that it is fighting it's self.

My therory is there's an issue with the timing not advancing, I have a Snap-on MT1480 but I don't see anyplace to put the damper probe so I guess it's useless on this rig, back to the 6.2 shelf for you.

I guess I will start researching how the timing advance works on this electronic pump and try to find a failure point I can test. At this point it's the only thing that makes sense to me.

Dominique
09-21-2011, 23:21
Now I'm convinced it's a timing problem.

I unplugged the coolant sensor and tricked it into thinkin it was really cold. Upon doing so the high idle kicked in and the cold advance. Took it for a quick little ride and it took right off, got up to speed no problem and had alot more power. Although I think the transmission must get some input from the sensor too as the shifting was a bit goofy and I think I lost overdrive, but the engine wound right up and went like it was supposed to.

Went a couple miles and stopped on a side road and plugged the sensor back in and now it's back to a 4 cyl Diesel or so it feels like.