how to replace injector pump

[gkpull]

Hi guys and gals!

I am new to this forum and I need some help. My 95 turbo diesel runs wide open as soon as you crank it up. I replaced the PMD and now it runs wide open. Before I replaced the PMD, it would surge up and down on its own. I suspect the injector pump, so I bought one. Now, I need some instructions on how to replace it. I have replaced them on the older 7.3 diesels, but never on a chevy 6.5 diesel. any help is appreciated.

[JohnC]

I have replaced them on the older 7.3 diesels, but never on a chevy 6.5 diesel. any help is appreciated.
Not much different: just more wires. Do a search. It's been covered in detail before.

[Robyn]

Welcome to TDP

I will skip the basic safety stuff that you should already be up to speed on.

Clear off the extra stuff off the top of the engine.
Remove the intake manifold.
Rove the turbo and the sheetmetal shield to gain access to the RH side injectors.

Unplug any and all wires Carefully that go to the IP and the intake.

Be sure to blow off an dirt and junk around the intake before lifting it off.

Keep the injector lines fastened in the pairs that they are in and remove as SETS.

Label them with some tape and be sure to make a map of where they go on the injection pump.

Be sure to keep the little metal clips that hold the injector lines where the come under the intake. (reinstall these, even though they are a PITA)

There is an easy order to get them off so you can reach the ones on the bottom better. ( a crows foot and short 3/8 breaker bar is a nice handy tool)

Cap the injectors to keep dirt out.

Unhook the fuel inlet and return lines.

Remove the oil filler tube retaining nuts and slide the filler pipe out of the cover (rubber gromett, just work it out with some wiggling)

Having the top half the fan shroud and the fan off makes accessing the area of the filler port easier with tools.

Now, mark the IP across the top of the flange where it meets the timing cover. Do this with a sharp chisel across both areas in one clean mark.

This will give you a reference point.

TURN THE ENGINE BY HAND to bring each of the 3 bolts that hold the pump gear to the pump up into view through the oil fill port and then remove them.

Once the 3 bolts are out remove the 3 nuts that hold the IP to the timing cover and then slide the pump out and off the engine.

Now

Make a very accurate little cardboard template that will align as close as you can make it to the outline of the injector pumps front flange.

**Cut a hole in the cardboard, slide it over the pump, trace around the flanges upper area and then mark the cardboard with a reference mark that aligns with the chisel mark you made on the pump.**

This template needs to be as accurate as you can make it.

Slip the template onto the new IP and then mark the new pump and make a good sharp mark on its flange.

This whole process needs to be done carefully. This will get your new pump "CLOSE" when you reinstall it.

Reverse the proceedure and install the new IP.

NOTE the IP can only go on one way. There is a little stud that aligns into the SLOT in the gear and the bolt pattern will only align ONE WAY.

You can't screw it up.

Get the firts bolt in and just lightly snug, then rotate the engine by HAND and install the others.

Now once the bolts are snug and the engine turns easily (no gears binding) go back and remove each bolt one at a time and put a little blue loctite on the threads, reinstall and tighten them all tight.

Remember if one of these bolts falls out "GAME OVER"

Hook everything back up.

I usually remove the glow plugs and spin the engine without compression.
This allows the engine to spin at around 400 RPM, and without compression the injectors will prime easily.

As soon as fuel mist comes out the glow plug ports. Reinstall the plugs and your ready to stat it as usuall.

allow the engine to warm up until at operating temp.

If you get an SES light, check the code.

If the IP is installed within the operating range of the stepper then it will be fine.

If the IP is off too far then the ECM will complain thatit can't adjust it and set the code.

Anyway, once its up and going right, I would have the TDCO reset with a TECH TOOL (scanner)
-1.5 to -1.94 is a good place.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Missy

[gkpull]

Thanks for the info. I finally got a chance to put the other IP in. I forgot to say its a used pump. But anyway, I got all the stuff put back and it runs. I am so thankful for such a great site and helpful people who dont even know me. My truck is back running again I didnt have to pay thousands of dollars for something that I can do. Again thanks and I will continue to browse the forum.

[Robyn]

Gotta love it when a plan comes together eh ??

You are very welcome.

So glad that its all working.

As I mentioned before, if you can get the TDCO reset, it may make the power and MPG better.

If the SES light has not come on then your within the limits and the ECM is happy.

Good luck and be safe

Missy

[fvreeman]

Just doing this job now and it really helped to have your advice. Thanks!:)