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Steve V
01-29-2004, 00:38
Here's the scenario. The other night the temp dropped to -33c. When I went to start, it would turn over but not start. After a few turns it just drained my batteries, I thought. I checked my plugs, seemed fine(just replaced 3 months prior). I thought maybe the fuel was jelled and checked fuel filter, but it was fine. I added anti-gel to tank anyways. I also added another 5gal of fuel. The tank was at 1/4 full(or empty). I then went and checked my block heater chord. It was plugged in my truck, alright. But not in my house!! (Note to self: CHECK PLUG!!) So I plugged it, put on a battery charger and waited until the morning. When I went to start, same thing! One of my batteries is 4 weeks old, the other came with the truck. ( I've had it for 1 yr.) So I finally tarped it and blasted it with heat. I used one of those commercial propane types. It was warm! I could work outside at -30c in my sweatshirt! I also bought another battery. With all this in place, including a jumper, still no go! All I get is a glow cycle , a slow whiring starter, then nothing. I checked all my ground connections and battery cables, look fine. I think it might be my starter. The motor gets pretty warm with the heat, so I don't think it's frozen. What kind of amps should a good starter draw? How would I check that? My truck sounds like she wants to go, but won't turn over fast enough (or at all). This is my first diesel, so I'm still pretty green! I've learned alot. All coming from this page. Thanks guys!

moondoggie
01-29-2004, 05:29
Good Day!

1. There are MANY things that might be causing your truck to not start. I guess I'd begin with the slow cranking. Use the search feature & look for battery connection stuff. I know Dr. Lee has a great method for improving side terminal battery connections - find it (forum? old article?) & implement it. I did it on our Sub & it works great.

My money's on the positive terminal on the passenger side, that's where I have 90% of my battery connection problems. I'd bet you're only cranking on one battery.

Unlike a gas engine, a diesel WILL NOT START if it's cranking too slow. It counts on compressing the air in the cylinder quickly to make it real hot, so it burns the fuel.

2. Check your glow plugs. IN MY OPINION, the best combination of easy-to-do & reliable test results is to hook a test light to a positive battery post, remove the glow plug electrical connector, & connect the test light to the glow plug. The glow plug is essentially a dead short compared to the test light - if the glow plug is good, the test light will light.

3. You might want to click on "my profile" & let us know what year, etc. truck you are talking about. It's handy, because you don't have to remember to do it, it shows up at the bottom of all your posts automatically. smile.gif

Blessings!

Brian Johnson, #5044

96GMC6.5TDSubOwner
01-30-2004, 16:06
Steve:
Recently one of the side terminals stripped out, that was it. Since my Sears Diehards also had to terminals, I converted over to marine-type terminals with the brass wing nuts. Cut off all the side terminals, threw them in the trash! Soldered on terminals with propane torch, used star washers with all connections under the wing nuts. No more side terminal nonesense to contend with. To remove GNDs just spin the wing nut. One less problem to deal with!

ucdavis
01-30-2004, 20:41
Having batteries of two different ages mucks up a diagnosis on trouble of this sort; one bad batt can kill the other (you never get the good one charged fully as it reaches a max near where the bad one will take a charge, then the good one starts to die as well). If you've cured that, you might want to load test the 4 month old batt to make sure it's still good.
Next I'd make a realllly close inspection of all batt cables & connections (actually I'd just undo & dress the connections like new & reinstall but realllly look over those cables first). Corrosion inside cables is hard to find but will keep juice from flowing. Any bumpy insulation or green ends at all & I'd replace the cables.
Car starter draws about 300 amps cranking, 6.5 starter about 150% of that (probably more in stoopid-cold weather would be my guess; glad I don't live where youse guys do).

Shad
02-02-2004, 03:05
Yup! I just replaced my batteries because 1 was 5 years old and the other 3 years old. both were interstates and were not holding charge. It was -15 below here and they showed there ugly faces. 2 days ago I replaced with 2 new batteries and a new block heater and all is well.