Rotomaster Replacement Turbo

[efialtis]

I picked up an engine for a replacement to one that I toasted. It came with what I was told was a Banks turbo, but it turns out that it is really a Rotomaster A/R60, T04b35 (is my guess)...
I am not too really bumbed out by this, because I got the whole setup... but I am not sure if the Turbo is OK or not...

Not my question here...

If the turbo turns out to be bad, I need to know if I can buy a "rebuild kit"? Anyone know? I couldn't find one in my searching...
Or, is there another turbo that will bolt on to the same exhaust manifold? You know, same bolt pattern and footprint?

If not, again, not too worried... I'll sell it all and keep the engine... but it would be nice to have the turbo...

[john8662]

Post a picture of your setup and I can ID it for you.

Banks used T04B Turbos on their setups, some were generic rotomasters.

[Robyn]

I have had a few Banks kits over the years, and remember a couple having the Rotomaster turbo.

Banks used a standard flange IIRC.

Pull the turbo off and check it out.

The turbine/compressor wheel should spin easily and not have any real noticeable movement for and aft.

Check the inside of the housing around the compressor wheel for signs that the wheel has hit the housing.

Without oil pressure you will/can see some slight movement side to side on the wheels.

Check the hot side for signs of major oil leakage. Oil slop in the exhaust side is a bad thing.

Repair kits that come with seal rings and a bushing kit should be available.

If these things look good, then the little critter is probably ready for the rodeo again.


Missy

[efialtis]

Sorry it took so long, my first attempt at getting photos ended badly when the mem card in the camera went bad.
Here is a link to several pictures of the TURBO pieces, Turbo, Intake and Exhaust manifolds.
https://picasaweb.google.com/dave.mamanakis/62Turbo?authkey=Gv1sRgCPCLqoSso4GsXg#

I am rebuilding the engine, so everything is off the engine.

There is no real "slop" in the turbine, it does move slightly from one side to the other, but not front to back.
There is an "oil film" on everything on the intake side, but the exhaust side is "clean".
There does not appear to be any "contact" between the housing and the turbine...

From what I am hearing, it is still "good" and I can slap it all together and run?

Thanks for your info and advice!

[Yukon6.2]

Hi
The turbo system you have is made by ATS.
Don't know much about them.I did get one with a motor but the turbo was toast.They work good when you get everything sealed up.
Thomas

[john8662]

Confirmed what Yukon said.

ATS Turbo Setup for 82-87 Style Pickup, 82-91 Suburban and Blazer 6.2L

They're nice setups. Got one sitting on the bench too. I wish I had the part for the valve cover (make sure you don't lose this!!!).

The Turbo is a T4 Turbo. A lot of the parts on that kit are generic and can be replaced. T4 Turbo Gasket to manifold, and the T4 4-bolt gasket to downpipe.

Have fun.

John

[efialtis]

john8662, "I wish I had the part for the valve cover (make sure you don't lose this!!!)."... um... they had a hose hooked up and slathered in RTV to try and seal it up... I don't think mine had that part, but I am good with fabricating stuff, so I'll work something up.

Question...
Where should I get the oil from. They had a small tube coming off the oil pressure sensor... not sure if that would be enough...

I had an old turbo on an '84 Subaru GL Wagon 4x4 (that I loved... and kick myself for selling it)... it had a Turbo that had a water jacket on it as well.... which would work perfectly with the "bypass" on the 6.2...

Are there any turbos with water jackets as well as oil?

Anyway... thanks for the information!
I need the 2 gaskets, (they were NOT on the setup when I took it apart) so I will either fab some, or purchase them... if I can find them.

Thanks again!

I'll let y'all know how it turns out...

[DmaxMaverick]

The oil pressure sender tap for oil is just fine for a turbo. Actually, it's really good, in that if the turbo craps, you'll see it instantly on the gage.

Duramax turbos are all water cooled.

[john8662]

No need for a water cooled center section.

You really don't want to add heat to your cooling system unnecessarily anyways.

What A/R did you end up with on the turbine housing?

I had an ATS Setup that I loved on my '86 pickup because it made more power than the Banks I have on the truck now. The ATS Setup didn't fit my C10 pickup very well because the manifold would hit a port of the engine mount when making a right-hand turn. I think these setups fit the 4x4's and C20's and C30's better. I could have just notched the bracket that bolts to the frame that holds the motor mount to make clearance but didn't.

I had the .84 A/R Turbine and it really spooled well and was responsive. I acquired another ATS setup off another engine I purchased and it has the .90 A/R. So, they obviously offered both.

I'll be curious what you come up with for the oil drain. I'll have to fab something up too as mine was rigged as well.

Ebay is your friend for the gaskets. Just search for turbine exhaust gasket T4 or something. They're really commonly available.

[efialtis]

On the intake side, the A/R number is 60, I have no idea what that means...

I imagine it is a volume or capacity measurement, but is a bigger or smaller number better, and is a 60 just fine or should I search around for parts to rebuild it as something else?

I'll post my solution for the oil drain after I get that far.

[john8662]

They're all A/R 60 on compressor. There is another A/R on the turbine housing (that's the exhaust housing) itself. That's the size of the vane that drives the turbine wheel (good relationship on spoolup and boost-compressor pressure-speed).