air cleaner set up

[pwood]

i have a 6.2 c code with a j code single plane intake deleated all emmissions how can i improve the air induction from standard, i have already plumbed it to rammed air intake what else to increase CFM. I am in australia have looked at toyota and nissan set ups but dont think they would breathe for a 6.2 N/A chev

[Yukon6.2]

Hi
One word....TURBO
Seriously you probly can,t do much more,other than installing a turbo.Is it a GM truck,or a 6.2 transplant in a different truck?
Thomas

[pwood]

the 6.2 is in a 1984 GMC jimmy T700R 4*4. The amount of money it cost to play with these motors is out of control in Aust, cant just wander down to the wreckers and get bits, i have spent $20,000 including buying it so far where you are that would get you the best jimmy in the USA. So i am just refining what i have, need to go to the states with one big heavy duty suitcase and get all the gear i hear about on the forums.

[Edahall]

i have a 6.2 c code with a j code single plane intake deleated all emmissions how can i improve the air induction from standard, i have already plumbed it to rammed air intake what else to increase CFM. I am in australia have looked at toyota and nissan set ups but dont think they would breathe for a 6.2 N/A chev

If you want to get the max power out of that 6.2 and stay non aspirated, the next thing on my list would exhaust modifications. I would go with a dual 2.5" exhaust with high quality free flowing mufflers and an H-pipe. I would also get a pair of exhaust headers. They're hard to find on the used market but you can buy them from
http://www.stans-headers.com/
At sea level, what I mentioned above will give you about 90% of the power of a Banks turbo. You certainly can get even more power with a bigger turbo than a Banks but then your reliability goes down the tube. Also worth mentioning is the fuel economy improvement.

[pwood]

I have already fitted the 2.5" dual exhaust with free flowing mufflers, i have not got the H pipe though and have been told on the forum to use 2.25". Headers would be the only other thing, have seen stans site to get them shipped to australia would be expensive, to get custom made ones here expensive. Maybe i have reached the limitions of the truck and should stop the obsession, my mates say get a 3 litre toyota 4*4 diesel but how can you after a V8 that does much the same economy on the open road and you dont need a radio thanks for your reply.

[Edahall]

I have already fitted the 2.5" dual exhaust with free flowing mufflers, i have not got the H pipe though and have been told on the forum to use 2.25". Headers would be the only other thing, have seen stans site to get them shipped to australia would be expensive, to get custom made ones here expensive. Maybe i have reached the limitions of the truck and should stop the obsession, my mates say get a 3 litre toyota 4*4 diesel but how can you after a V8 that does much the same economy on the open road and you dont need a radio thanks for your reply.

Looks like you've already picked all the low hanging fruit other than the H-pipe. From now on, anything else you do to increase power will cost money. The only other thing I can think of is to port and polish your heads. It won't cost you other than some grinding stones but it'll take some time and effort.

[pwood]

when you say port and polish do you mean doing something radical or deburr and matching up port sizes. Did you think stans headers made a big difference, and what size H pipe did you install. Also i am considering refreshing the heads have you done this if so did you go for the later style rocker assembly. I get 24 mpg out of my 1984 GMC jimmy 4 speed auto overdrive 3.42 diff 265*15*70 tyres 45psi at 60 mph. You quote 30 mpg i wonder if that could be the difference between a fresh motor i think mine is original and the odometer only goes to 100K, so who knows. Apart from the motor i had a steering box sent over from chicago powersteering 3.25 turns lock to lock magnificent, great company to deal with.

[Edahall]

when you say port and polish do you mean doing something radical or deburr and matching up port sizes. Did you think stans headers made a big difference, and what size H pipe did you install. Also i am considering refreshing the heads have you done this if so did you go for the later style rocker assembly. I get 24 mpg out of my 1984 GMC jimmy 4 speed auto overdrive 3.42 diff 265*15*70 tyres 45psi at 60 mph. You quote 30 mpg i wonder if that could be the difference between a fresh motor i think mine is original and the odometer only goes to 100K, so who knows. Apart from the motor i had a steering box sent over from chicago powersteering 3.25 turns lock to lock magnificent, great company to deal with.


Regarding porting and polishing, I pretty much did exactly as explained here:
http://pirate4x4.com/tech//billavista/PDFs/Head%20Porting%20DIY%20by%20Standard%20Abrasives.p df

I also gutted out the EGR valve apparatus in the intake manifold. I then went in and polished all the runners inside. If your intake is EGR equipped, it might be coked up with carbon. That's the way mine was like before working on it. I'm sure it had an effect on power.

The headers along with the other modifications made a huge difference. My dad has an 83 Blazer 6.2L with the Banks turbo and after all was said and done, he wishes he would have gone the route I went. My N/A 6.2 is more torquie especially off the line while his with the Banks seems to maybe have a little more top end power when the engine is wound up at red line. My N/A definitely has an edge when it comes to usable power though and it shows when towing. When it comes to fuel economy, the N/A wins hands down. The Banks equipped 6.2 is barely able to get 21 mpg.

I'm still using the old 82 heads and did not convert to the later style rocker assembly. The older style seems to be better built. The newer is made out of stamp steel.

Before the modifications, this engine would pull 26 mpg but was painfully slow and if pushed, it was a mosquito killer. The modifications did improve fuel economy and it dramatically increased power. I have found that using 30x9.50 tires gets the best fuel economy. They're tall and skinny and have a stiff sidewall which reduces rolling resistance. I also mix in a small amount of 2-stroke oil on fill up. My 3.08 gear ratios could also be responsible for the fuel economy but I don't know how much. I really like the 3.08 gears but it's hard on transmissions.

[More Power]

My experience with a Banks turbocharged 6.2L diesel is a little different than Ed's.

I drove an NA 6.2L diesel for about 7 years and 200,000 miles before installing a new Banks TD kit. A couple of years prior to the Banks installation I had installed a performance-oriented 3" single exhaust system with a Y-pipe and large free-flowing muffler. This helped some, but 0-60 mph runs were still in the 18 second range. My truck was a 1982 GMC K1500 4x4 longbed pickup with 3.42 gearing and 700R4 automatic.

After installing the Bank, 0-60 times dropped into the low 12's. That's a big and dramatic improvement.

Installing a Banks system will improve power/torque roughly 30-40%. What this means is that you'll have the towing power while pulling hills in 3rd gear that you had in 2nd gear without the turbo.

If you have a lightweight truck, don't tow and drive at reasonable speeds (i.e. no faster than 65-mph), running NA is likely the best choice. You don't need a turbocharger.

On the other hand, if you do tow or drive at current Interstate speeds, a turbo will help a lot. I drove faster after installing the Banks system, but fuel economy didn't drop more than 1-2 mpg when comparing pre-turbo fuel economy. I saw up to 24-mpg pre turbo and 22-24 post turbo - if I could resist the male urge to use the power. ;)

[Ebrown]

I'm running J-code intake, dual 2.5, 30 flowmasters, H-pipe, and this cool intake hat, k&N filter w/ pre cleaner.. I'll be dumping this setup sometime soon for a mild built 6.2, banks turbo


http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee183/Kidbrown1/Custom%20intake/IMG_1260.jpg


http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee183/Kidbrown1/Custom%20intake/IMG_1259.jpg


http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee183/Kidbrown1/Custom%20intake/IMG_1262.jpg

[john8662]

where did that cool intake hat come from?

[Ebrown]

I can't think of the place off hand, I ordered it from outside of the USA and it took about 6 mths to have it made and sent here! I was going to build a cold air intake / Ram air and lost interest and have moved on to a a mild built 6.2 and a banks turbo setup

[KidKodiak]

@Ebrown - Just curious if your intake and filter made any noticeable improvements. I'm seriously considering the same thing for my rig, but not sure if it'll be worth throwing the money into.

[DmaxMaverick]

Peninsular Engines has similar on the shelf. They are also a TDP supporter (http://www.thedieselpage.com/vendors/main.htm). Call 'em. It looks like their marine intake upper.

[KidKodiak]

I was just there talking to Matt last week when I dropped off my old IP. Matt and Rose are the greatest.

I'm going to buy two of them next week, but I'm a little curious where I can buy the tubing to put the filter right behind the radiator support.

I'm also thinking of buying a Volant Power core air filter.

My nay saying uncle seems to push me away from a better air intake system, stan's headers, and other items to increase air flow efficiency. He' says it isn't worth the money for the small gains. This is one point I will not listen to him on.

I'm just curious how much difference you can notice with just the intake, if any.

[DmaxMaverick]

Your uncle is right. Unless you drive it a lot, for a long time, you may never realize the investment. The gains are small, but when you start with 160 HP (or less), another 20 is a lot. An intake under the hood is NO GOOD. Get it somewhere it can get some cool(er) air. Engine compartment air is much less dense than ambient temp (outside) air. Less dense = less O2 =less economy/power. The OEM 6.2L air intakes aren't as bad as sucking in all that hot air. A 4" pipe plumbed in from the grill area would be ideal. Cool air, and lots of it. Dr. Lee would have a few things to say about this. (come to think of it....look up the "Avant-Swanger, or was that Swanger-Avant, air intake"). Pay no mind to "The Clevite Kid", though. He's just nuts!

Headers, well, I'll have a pair on my next N/A 6.2 build, without a doubt. Either Stan's (premium), or HMMWV's (close second). Without a turbo, the easier it is to breath, the better. Every little bit counts.

[Low_Bridge]

All my reading over the years makes nothing but sense to try & pull the air from outside!!


But..... it's so hard to accept cause that Big A_s aircleaner is such a blinking ugly, cumberson peice of hardware to work with. & mines in a van!

Tight spot for the routing & very much in the way!

So functionallity is Sexy .... Those of us who have raced understand beauty doesn't help you win

It sure would be nice to plumb that marine hat & filter out of the engine compartment. ;)

[DmaxMaverick]

Form follows function, in my book. However, with some creativity, both can be had. Polishing the outside of an intake manifold does nothing for function, but it adds a lot to the cool factor.

[Robyn]

Oh yeah buddy, the cooooooooooooooool factor :D

Hard to look cool when you show up at the rod run with painted over dented valve covers and a grimy intake and the spark plug wires look like a rat nest the rat would not even claim :eek:

Pollished anything certainly adds to the cool factor.

Now that said, I have never understood the folks who have a beat to rat crap pickup, with every corner a different color and a shiny new set of the in style alloy wheels that are bolted on with rusty chrome lug nuts. :confused:

AHHHHH, oooooook.

But, A nice clean rig with a neat, tidy and well decorated engine bay is definately an 11 ++ on the 1-10 cool scale.
And if the thing is all covered with BLING it's even "MORE GOODER" ;)

Missy

[Dvldog8793]

Howdy
If it hasn't been done already you can turn up the pump. Also add another air intake duct and an enlarged air filter housing with a 5x14 inch air filter. I am building one now for my M1009. Getting COOL air in and HOT air out is your best bet. Possibly adjust your gears and transmision to what goal you have in mind for the truck.
Hope this helps...good luck

[julio]

looking to change my stock intake