Fuel line quick connect

[JohnC]

I have a rusty fitting, covered with fuel, on a line coming from the fuel cooler going to the tank. Is there a way to disconnect these fittings without the "special tool"? Is the tool cheap and available? Is it likely I can fix the leak or should I just order a $new $line and be done with it?

TIA

[DmaxMaverick]

The plastic collar sets are cheap (~$5 at Harbor Freight, Autozone, etc.), but may not work if the fitting is rusty. Then, you'll need a more formidable steel collar. They are a little more expensive ($10-15) per set. The "professional" tool is the collar, attached to pliers, and are expensive.

I prefer the cheap plastic collars. They are a lot more "adaptive" (flexible), and will self-destruct before damaging the expensive (and sometimes non-replaceable) fittings. Make sure you get the "GM fuel line tool", as the others are too short, and don't engage the lock clip enough, most of the time.

Another option is cut the fuel line (tubing cutter) and replace with a flare or compression coupler. Much cheaper, and more durable for later service. And, they won't rust (use SS or aluminum). The lines are either suction (supply) or low/no pressure (return), so no real concern of pressure ratings.

If you can't find the tool locally, I can send you a set.

[JohnC]

Another option is cut the fuel line (tubing cutter) and replace with a flare or compression coupler.

Don't know if that's an option here. There's a short steel line, 3" or so, coming out of the cooler that fits a Q-D fitting on the subject line. the 3" line is really rusty but not leaking for now. The other line as 18" or so, has a rubber section, and snaps into a fitting on the top forward edge of the tank. This is where the leak is. The line is on the tank flex on the other side of the fitting.

I may be able to cut the fitting off on top of the tank and make a replacement line from the cooler all the way to the tank. Not sure what the fitting on the cooler is, flare maybe. It's the return, so pressure isn't an issue.

I need the truck to run errands so I can get the bike running so I can take the truck down...

[JohnC]

OK, none of the connectors will release. The tool goes in about half way and hits an immovable object. I suspect the rust is blocking things. Any suggestions? I'm about to start cutting lines...

[JohnC]

Update:

No individual parts available. Does anyone know if these lines can be made up anywhere?

I need a plan B, otherwise I'm buying a new cooler and a "line kit"

BTW, it now leaks to much to drive unless it's an emergency...

[DmaxMaverick]

Is the line so bad you can't clean it up and use a compression fitting (or flare) and a coupler?

[JohnC]

There are short (3" +/-) steel lines coming right off the cooler that are badly rusted. They are not currently leaking, but, if I start cutting things, they will have to be replaced. I don't know how they seal at the cooler and they are not available separately.

I cannot release the fittings at the cooler to remove it and get it out of the way.

The line that is leaking (now) is connected to a line on top of the tank, which is about 3/4 full. The leak is in the connector. If I cut it (female fitting to hose), there won't be much to work with unless I remove the box or drop the tank. If I fix that, I'll probably have the ones on the cooler to deal with before next winter... To install a compression fitting on the line that leaks, I need to get the cooler out of the way...

Catch 22...

[joed]

If you get to this point, I've got the fuel cooler and the lines that connect to it...

The lines are a couple feet long, perhaps enough to splice into, so that you could cut yours if you have to...

I used this on my 98 6.5 for a while, hooked it to the fuel return line. IIRC, it was from a 02 Dmax.

PM me if interested.

Joe.

[JohnC]

If you get to this point, I've got the fuel cooler and the lines that connect to it...

Thanks. I'll keep that in mind. Any chance you could post or email me a photo?

TIA

[joed]

I'll try and get a picture tonight.

[JohnC]

Thanks.

Update: Although the fitting that leaks is on "top" of the tank, apparently, the tank farther back is higher. Even though the tank is down 6 or more gallons, the leak persists even though it's been sitting for 24 hours. It must be siphoning from the tank. So, now, the plan is to take the box off tomorrow, pull the return line off at the tank, and go from there...

[joed]

Here's a pic of my cooler and hoses - unfortunately I didn't do a very good job storing it - one of the hose had the quick connect ripped off, and I can't find it. The other is in good shape.

Not sure if it will do you much good.

Let me know if you think it will, and good luck with your repair.

Joe.

[JohnC]

From what I can tell, it looks different from mine.

I'm eliminating all the quick connects as they are not quick disconnects. The rust prevents them from releasing. I had to destroy three of then to get things apart.

The only one I was able to release normally was the return line at the engine. This allowed me to blow air into the line and break the siphon. I decided not to remove the bed as the cooler is actually under the cab and the siphon was dealt with. I was able to save the short lines on the cooler. Good thing: Diesel fuel lines are different from gas lines, parts for which are available. If they fail later I think I have an idea to replace them, but it'll have to wait. Once the quick connects are out of the picture things will be a lot easier to deal with.

I'll try to snap some pictures when I get it all back together.

[JohnC]

OK, I had to get it running again. Here's what I ended up with. Sorry, it was so messy and I was so frustrated I did not take any "before" pictures.

Here is a photo of the cooler. The two stubby lines are not available separately. I cleaned them up, coated them with rust arrester and painted them. If they fail in the future, I have another idea that may work, but for now they are OK. I had to destroy the quick connects attached to them to get them apart.

http://www.cooperjr.skyportservices.net/jpeg/cooler.jpg


This photo shows the hose I used to replace the leaky connector and rusty line. The two clamps in the upper left are on a double hose barb connector and are just above where the original leaky connector was. The double clamp on the right is probably overkill, but there was no hose barb and no way to saftie it. Note the "next-in-line-to-fail" supply line behind it.

http://www.cooperjr.skyportservices.net/jpeg/newhose.jpg

This next photo shows the cooler installed and the two new hoses replacing the hoses with quick connects. I used safety wire to secure the clamps on the cooler. The lines on the right had hose barbs from the old hoses.

Wonder why they didn't just make it this way in the first place?

http://www.cooperjr.skyportservices.net/jpeg/in-out.jpg

Here is a shot of the coupler that was leaking and also the one that I had to cut apart to get it off the cooler.

http://www.cooperjr.skyportservices.net/jpeg/quickies.jpg

Last, here is a shot of the rust in the leaking connector. I suspect the rust just kept going until it got in to the o-ring. When I finally stopped the drip it was leaking about a drop every 10 seconds.

http://www.cooperjr.skyportservices.net/jpeg/rust.jpg

[turner__57]

Hey, I have 07 classic lbz I read your post and I have same issue. Few questions for ya, the one quick connect that you replaced with rubber hose was from tank to cooler? I heard that these are vacuum lines and cant use rubber hose? yours worked fine no issues? what size hose and what did you use to cut the lines, thanks for the help new to site!!

07 Silverado 2500 LBZ CCSB 4" No muffler, Tie Rod Sleeves, PCV Reroute, Pump Rub Update, otherwise all stock

[Kennedy]

A word of caution here. If you are working on one of these lines and clamping with hose, there is only about 3/4" of tube stubbed after the "bump ring" so there is not a ton of purchase area to seal to. It would be very easy for the hose to slip off of this.

I have a different approach to this. I do a quick chamfer to the inside lip of the hose, apply a light oil for lube than use a heat gut to warm my hose. I push it up and over the bump ring and them land my clamp on the far side or even right on top of the bulge as shown in the document linked below.

http://www.kennedydiesel.com/docs/BasicLiftPumpInstallation.pdf