m1009 not starting.

[Krisverde]

Hey guys! had a buddy pick up one of those military blazers yesterday with a no start issue. Does crank but will not start. Also the electrical system has been converted to 12v instead of 24v. I have found out the batteries need to be charged up...since they were dropping to 8.7 v while cranking. Also I pulled the air cleaner off and found 3 wires ( 2 greens and a pink) disconnected off the front of the pump cover.

The glow plugs are good so I still need to check if she is getting fuel. The auctineer said it had a bad injection pump, who knows? I think I can crack the pressure line or pull glow plugs out to see if fuel is getting to the cylinders correct?

Also looking at the filter on the firewall...there is a clear plastic line off the assy. that just goes towards the bottom and doesn't connect to anything, same with a rubber hose that sits on the bottom of the assy....are these supposed to connect to anything?

Thanks in advance guys. Ill keep searching around also.

[DmaxMaverick]

Welcome aboard!

No doubt, it won't start. The pink wire is the ESS ignition power supply (Engine Stop Solenoid, allows fuel into the injection pump). If this is connected, it shouldn't start. Before connecting it, turn on the key and verify you have Batt+ voltage at the connector. If the vehicle has been converted to 12V, it is possible the ESS hasn't been converted (or hasn't been replaced with a civi model), which means too little voltage to the ESS to "open" it, and could lead a lesser knowledgeable person to believe the pump is bad. The pink wire connects to the front/forward connector.

The green wire(s) are for the HPCA (Housing Pressure Cold Advance, advances timing for a cold start), and fast idle. These won't prevent a start, but may make it rough, or require more pedal input and/or extensive cranking.

Weak batteries are a problem. It is important to have a healthy electrical system to a good cold start. If it isn't cranking at 100+ RPM, it may not start when cold. Attempting a start with weak batteries is very hard on the starter, and they ain't cheap. Older tired engines are more sensitive to this, if the compression is lower.

While trying to get it started, DO NOT use any type of starting fluid, even if the label says it's safe for Diesels. This can/will kill the glow plugs, and may cause other engine damage. Allow the starter to cool between cranking episodes (2 minutes cooling for about 20 seconds cranking).

Replace the fuel filter(S) and bleed the system. Leave the Pink wire off until you have clean, air-free fuel up to the pump. Forcing air through the pump will extend the time of all your efforts, and require more of the starting system. Once you have good fuel to the injection pump, you can loosen the injector line nuts at the injectors to help bleed air, and verify fuel flow. Once again, if the pink wire is removed, there should be NO fuel flow into the business end of the injection pump.

[Krisverde]

Welcome aboard!

No doubt, it won't start. The pink wire is the ESS ignition power supply (Engine Stop Solenoid, allows fuel into the injection pump). If this is connected, it shouldn't start. Before connecting it, turn on the key and verify you have Batt+ voltage at the connector. If the vehicle has been converted to 12V, it is possible the ESS hasn't been converted (or hasn't been replaced with a civi model), which means too little voltage to the ESS to "open" it, and could lead a lesser knowledgeable person to believe the pump is bad. The pink wire connects to the front/forward connector.

The green wire(s) are for the HPCA (Housing Pressure Cold Advance, advances timing for a cold start), and fast idle. These won't prevent a start, but may make it rough, or require more pedal input and/or extensive cranking.

Weak batteries are a problem. It is important to have a healthy electrical system to a good cold start. If it isn't cranking at 100+ RPM, it may not start when cold. Attempting a start with weak batteries is very hard on the starter, and they ain't cheap. Older tired engines are more sensitive to this, if the compression is lower.

While trying to get it started, DO NOT use any type of starting fluid, even if the label says it's safe for Diesels. This can/will kill the glow plugs, and may cause other engine damage. Allow the starter to cool between cranking episodes (2 minutes cooling for about 20 seconds cranking).

Replace the fuel filter(S) and bleed the system. Leave the Pink wire off until you have clean, air-free fuel up to the pump. Forcing air through the pump will extend the time of all your efforts, and require more of the starting system. Once you have good fuel to the injection pump, you can loosen the injector line nuts at the injectors to help bleed air, and verify fuel flow. Once again, if the pink wire is removed, there should be NO fuel flow into the business end of the injection pump.

I do have voltage to that wire, I can hear a click on the pump when I connect and disconnect...but it doesn't sound solid? How can I check if it is converted or not? I am charging the batteries currently.

Also Ill check up on that writeup how to bleed the system.

[DmaxMaverick]

If it clicks, it's probably OK. When it does, you should get some fuel to the injectors (with the injector line nut loosened), even if the pump is bad. The solenoid and its plunger travel is small, so it may not "sound" like a typical relay. It's inside the pump, which also absorbs some of the acoustics of engagement. If it's a 24V solenoid, it may "sound" like it's working, but may not pull the plunger enough to allow fuel flow. Check for fuel at the injectors. If you have that and it's cranking fast enough, yet still doesn't start, look elsewhere for a problem. Start with the basic troubleshooting process and eliminate components as you go.

[Krisverde]

If it clicks, it's probably OK. When it does, you should get some fuel to the injectors (with the injector line nut loosened), even if the pump is bad. The solenoid and its plunger travel is small, so it may not "sound" like a typical relay. It's inside the pump, which also absorbs some of the acoustics of engagement. If it's a 24V solenoid, it may "sound" like it's working, but may not pull the plunger enough to allow fuel flow. Check for fuel at the injectors. If you have that and it's cranking fast enough, yet still doesn't start, look elsewhere for a problem. Start with the basic troubleshooting process and eliminate components as you go.

Ok so the supply line from lift pump spits out fuel. Truck is cranking over fast now. Cracked the line on #1 cylinder and no fuel was coming out.

[Krisverde]

Ok got the truck running. Now I just need to figure out why it's stalling...which I assume is air in the system.