I am at a loss: NO START

[Eloughlin]

Here's the scenario: 1998 GMC K3500 6.5l. I am on second DS4 pump, dealer installed many years ago with new FSD/PMD around 125,000 miles. Current mileage is 220,000. Truck started to stall, then I could crank it right back up. This was probably once or twice a week. Seemed to work better when it was warmed up. Anyway, parked truck one evening, son went out to move truck the next morning. No start!! Good turn over speed but no start. Figured that the FSD was the probable culprit. Ordered remote kit from reputable reseller, new gray FSD with cooler and mounted behind grill. Guess what> Still no start! Have followed various trouble shooting guides. Voltages good to FSD, voltage 12v to fuel shutoff solenoid, does not read shorted (though cannot feel any click when key is turned). Have disconnected first injector line on front left side of engine and no fuel is present when cranking. I did remove fuel shutoff solenoid and turned ignition switch on and fuel flowed copiously out of shut off hole. Can hear lift pump working, also cracked open fuel tank cap in case of vacuum. Fuel out of top of filter, and fuel from T drain on front of engine. Can hear glow plug controller clicking on and off (replaced all g-plugs many years ago). I am at a loss to what is the culprit, OTHER THAN THE $$$ PUMP! Any suggestions??

[DmaxMaverick]

The ESS should "read" shorted. It's a coil. If you are reading more than about 2K ohms, it's probably bad. You should hear/feel a very distinct "click" or "clunk" when it engages (like a small starter relay). Remove it, apply ground and 12V+, and it should magnetize. If it doesn't, it's "open", meaning bad, and why it read "not shorted".

[racer55]

*2

Also check the FSO ground for a good ground connection,or broken wire.

[ccc]

I had exactly the same symptoms. I was instructed by some of the experts here, to replace the fuel shutoff valve. It worked. If you have fuel to the shut off port is there any reason you think it isn't a bad shut off valve? I think I would replace that before I replaced a whole pump.

[Eloughlin]

Thanks to all that have responded.
I have ordered the shutoff and we"ll see if that cures it!
My only hesitancy has been some of the mixed messages from a lot of different places that doesn't place so much emphasis of the fuel shutoff solenoid!! Even to the point of removing the 'innards', not much on it preventing starting!
The lack of click/thunk (!) when key is turned and the presence of gushing fuel when removed and a key is turned and NO fuel down stream at injector ONLY left the actual fuel solenoid and pump left as possible sources of the no start condition.
I cannot remember the actual OHM reading but it was in the meg-OHM range I believe. Should know this weekend when part gets here! Note to others: BIG BIG difference in dealer/ dealer trade and 3rd party pricing for the stanadyne part! $275 from dealer and $72 from source of my recently installed FSD+cooler+ remote mount kit!!
PS also: fuel shutoff solenoid did not cause a trouble code to be logged and picked up by my scan tool!

[racer55]

There is no trouble code for the FSO since it is not controlled by the ecm,it is a simple solenoid that is powered by the ignition and grounded like any other non ecm ground.Did you check the ground?

You can for testing purposes only remove the circlip in the bottom of the FSO and remove the spring and pintle,then reinstall the body of the FSO in the IP and tryu to start the engine.
Re-installing the body of the FSO is only to stop the fuel leak you noticed.
If the engine now starts you have found the source of your trouble likely.
A bad IP, PMD or FSO can all cause no fuel at the injectors.

[JohnC]

Actually, that's not correct. The FSO is controlled by the ECM. If the PMD shorts out it's the only thing between you and a total runaway (so don't gut it!)

If you've got the FSO code, it could be the solenoid or it could be the wiring, connectors, etc.

[racer55]

I stand corrected,I just looked at the wiring diagram and the ground is ecm controlled.
Its good to have the right information when needed.

And there is also a code associated with it,p0215.
Thanx for keeping me on the right track and doing the proper legwork.

[Eloughlin]

Got back in town late this afternoon and my fuel shutoff solenoid was waiting on me! Took old unit off and DAMN...the large spring decided to jump out and hide UNDER the injection pump!! Since I didn't have another one in my pocket..and not knowing if it was 'really' necessary...I installed the new shutoff and hoped for the best. NOT TO BE...still no start and still no fuel to injector line that I had cracked open!! Big question IS THAT SPRING REALLY NECESSARY and is its omission now keeping me from starting!!

PS I stripped back the wiring on the old unit and touched the wires to my battery...no click/stroke//nothing so maybe it was really bad. IDK~!

[racer55]

The spring should go above the pintle to close it when power is taken away,not below it-so you should not have a spring when you install the FSO.

[Eloughlin]

The new unit I put in had springs on it similar to the old one. The spring that misbehaved (!) is a larger diameter than the entire 'plunger' assembly. Do not have a clue what it there for....maybe to keep the 'seat' down in the pump?

[racer55]

Could be,I don't remeber a spring like that in mine but it has been a while since I was in there.

[Eloughlin]

Update: still no start.
Checked wiring harness on new remote FSD have voltage present on several contacts. so I guess its ok. Feel clunk on new fuel shutoff solenoid when key is turned on. Plugged in block heater and several hours of heat plus battery charger...tried starting...good turn over speed, but still no start!! Have fuel at filter,have fuel at T handle, have fuel at pump when fuel shutoff solenoid was removed and key turned on!! so lift pump is working (can also hear it!) Glow plug controller is working.........so why no start.
Only thing left is injection pump, but this does not follow other posters here and elsewhere that say the pump problem is a gradual situation...in my case...drove truck, had a few stalls, then one morning no start! Could it have been the pump all along and NOT the other components I replaced above?? Truck has been rock solid for past 13-14 years!! Pump was replaced at 125K miles, have 220k now. Might be time for pump and injector replacement?? Though no fuel at injectors kinda discounts them being the culprit right now!! Help I am at a complete loss....no codes, grounds all fine, checklist completed and still no SUCK-SQUEEZE-BANG-BLOW!!

[racer55]

Try unplugging the optical sensor and cranking,if still no start plug the OS back in and unplug the crank sensor and try.

Otherwise you may have a bad fuel solenoid in the IP,an ohm test between pin B of the PMD harness(large red) at the IP and the black ground wire atttatched to the top of the IP would tell you if the solenoid has developed an open circuit.

[Eloughlin]

Where do I find the crank sensor to unplug? Where is the plug? I know the sensor is down by the balancer.
I do know where the OS is but not the CS plug!

[racer55]

You will have to follow the harness from the sensor to find the plug,I haven't had a reason to do it yet so I don't know if its near the water crossover or not.

[jonflies]

As far as I can tell, it is mixed in among the other connectors hiding under what I'll call the intake to turbo manifold. I'm troubleshooting a similar problem (my post has ECM in it and is from Saturday) but my issue is intermittent. I can start cold no problem, it only occurs when hot. I'm throwing a bunch of money at sensors and connectors before going at the pump full bore, as it will be time and money consuming. I'm to receive my shut off solenoid by UPS tomorrow, and in the meantime will be changing the Intake Air Temp, water temp, MAP sensor and connector. My new, re-chipped ECM arrives early next week. If I don't find the problem, it will be a quick pump change.

[a5150nut]

Eloughlin,

What shape are your batteries in? If you don't reach 100rpm cranking the computer won't let it have fuel. It can sound like its cranking fast enough but not be quite enough. Check all battery and cable connections and check voltage on each battery.

[rogstafford]

Turned out my computer was bad. No codes, good crank, fuel present, NO START. Cost me a grand to get it replaced, but I've been running good ever since.