First Break Job

[BigMikeO]

OK,

I have done the breaks on my Toyota cars but when I went to replace the Roters and Calapers on the GMC Truck it is totally different. I can't figure out how to remove the calipers and the roters appear to be bolted on instead of just held on by the calapers. I have attached some pictures I took for refrence on what to do.

1. How do I remove the Calipers
2. How do I remove the Rotors.

Thanks,
Mike

http://users.adelphia.net/~mikeolson27/images/GMC/Breakjob/bottom.jpg
http://users.adelphia.net/~mikeolson27/images/GMC/BreakJob/Front.jpg
http://users.adelphia.net/~mikeolson27/images/GMC/Breakjob/top.jpg

[BigMikeO]

Another Photo
http://users.adelphia.net/~mikeolson27/images/GMC/BreakJob/Bottom.jpg http://users.adelphia.net/~mikeolson27/images/GMC/breakjob/Top.jpg

[markrinker]

Calipers are held on by two bolts - one that is visible in your second picture. From the looks of things, you may need to heat them to free up the heavy rust, or cut them in the middles since you will be replacing anyway.

The rotors are integrated with the wheel hub assembly. You should consider replacing both based on miles and heavily rusted condition.

I believe the rotors are pressed on the hubs - most brake shops can do this for you for a small fee. Remove the center hub nut and pull the whole assembly off - after removing the caliper of course.

You probably need new brake lines as well.

[whatnot]

Originally posted by Mark Rinker:


The rotors are integrated with the wheel hub assembly. You should consider replacing both based on miles and heavily rusted condition.

The hub and rotor are seperate parts. They just go together different that usual.

To remove the rotor, you need to remove the large center nut then the 4 bolts from the back side. Then pull the whole hub and rotor off.
Now just pound out the 8 lug bolts bolts and it is loose.
If you are just getting the rotors turned, leave it on the hub and take the whole thing in.

[BigMikeO]

Thanks,

I am hoping I can do this all on my own. I just got back from Sears with a 3/8 Allen wrench for the bolts, hopefully that's all I'll need.

Mike

[BigMikeO]

OK,

I have gotten the Calapers loose but I am stuck with that center bolt. I have tried some penetrating oil and tried a tourch and I can't get the stupid thing off. How long should I keep the tourch on it. Also I am using an inch and 3/8 socket and if feels a little loose, Is this a metric bolt? I am wondering because my next step would be having to go purchase an impact socket,

Thanks,
Mike

[Dvldog 8793]

Howdy
The nut is metric but you should be able to get it off by hand. You may need a pipe extension for your ratchet :D I think you are fighting corrosion more than torque. If you have the time use penatrating oil and let it sit. I would be carefull about heating it too much as it is a thin wall nut and allot of the heat will be transfered to the end of your halfshaft. If you are going to replace the lug bolts then you can pound them out with an old nut and a hammer. If not, then take one lug nut and put it about half way on(to keep the threads from expanding) and then use a 3/8 flat faced punch. To put them back in either purchase a metric nut or use a lug nut turned upside down, also use a grade 8 washer and then use your impact to suck everything back together.
Hope this helps! Dont you love road salt!!!! :mad:

[whatnot]

Use a pipe on the wrench. The nut is fairly tight. Drop a big allen wrench or something into a slot of the rotor to keep it from turning.

The 4 bolts from the back are also hard to get out if they are rusted. I found that a 1/2" breaker bar works better than a rachet because the head is smaller and fits better next to the CV joint.

[slagona]

In order to get the hub/rotor off without a puller of any type, I losened the 4 bolts about 1/2 way out (also used the 1/2" breaker bar to get them off) and used a sledge hammer on those bolts to "ease" the hub/rotor out. Worked well for me. Don't hit on the rotor to try to get the hub/rotor assembly out - even if you plan on replacing the rotors. It may end up separating the hub bearings instead of removin the assembly - then you may end up replacing the hub as well.

I used a punch to remove the studs, and purchased a nut and appropriate washer to use to pull the studs back on the new rotor/old hub assembly. I couldn't use a lug nut upside down as it has the outside threads preventing a socket to go on while upside down.....

It's not a bad job, I went with the "cheap" autozone rotors and have been pleased with them - about 7k on the new rotors now....

[whatnot]

I use an old rotor when putting the new rotor on the hub. Just lay it on the floor with the bolt holes up. Then lay the hub on it facing down and line up the holes. Then put the new rotor on and line up the holes. Now drop all the lug bolts back in and pound them in. It doesn't require using the nut and washer unless they are stubborn. Even if they are, just use a lug nut without washer and get it fairly tight, then hit the lug. It will go in a little and the nut can be tightened more.

[BigMikeO]

Anybody know what size the Metric center nut is?

[patrick m.]

IIRCC, the big nut is 36mm.