Break In Additives

[jhornsby3]

Good day all,

Well I am in the delima of replacing the head gaskets again. Replaced them and put about 300 miles on the truck and friday morning on the way to work they let loose again. Drove the few miles to work and checked the oil and there is about a gallon of coolant in the oil but nothing in the coolant. I know where it is coming from, so that is taken care of. But with all that coolant in the oil is it wise to dump the oil and when replacing the oil in a few days, to add the break in additive to the oil to help with lubristy( if thats a word)? I was planning to run the truck for a few days then dump the oil again after it has a chance to clean some of the coolant from the other areas of the engine. But I would like the added insurance of lubricating the critical areas.

Thanks,

John

[DmaxMaverick]

I don't recommend "break-in" lube additives. However, if you have a lubricity concern (which may be warranted considering your contamination), use "STP w/ZDP" (little red bottle). Nothing else should be needed. I use ND-30 for a new engine break-in, but that's not what you are doing.

Any remaining moisture in the system should vapor off in a short time. It's important to get the ECT up to operating temp quickly, and keep it there for at least 30 minutes. Watch the oil fill pipe and CDR for white goo (water condensate mixed with oil). Once that stops showing up, the oil is clear of moisture. Any remaining coolant should flush out with the oil changes. After one change, the remaining amount is negligible.

[racer55]

If you allow a significant sit time then the coolant should end up in the bottom of the oil pan-water is heavier than oil so the coolant will come out first and the oil will be floating on top-remember the gulf!

As stated running the engine up to temp will help boil any residual coolant off.

[rustyk]

Motor oil is formulated to hold water in suspension; it will NOT completely settle out. And ND (non-detergent) oil should also NOT be used because it doesn't have the additives required for a modern engine. Breakin products are unnecessary and possibly harmful.

Ethylene glycol will turn oil into crud. I'd suggest changing the oil several times in a short period.

[jhornsby3]

Thanks guys. Ya'll confermed what I was thinking. I was going to put in fresh dino then run it for two days to work(15 miles each way) dump it. Then run that for the rest of the week. Then dump that and put the synthetic back in.

Again thanks

John

[Robyn]

John

Dump that oil/coolant mix immediately. Drain the cooling system to stop any more contamination.

Fill the engine with 50/50 15-40 and tranny oil, replace the filter with a cheapy and start the engine without coolant.

Idle for maybe 2 minutes or so (will not hurt the thing at idle)

Drain the oil again and then let stand empty until you get the gasket job done.

Refil with fresh 15-40 (new filter) and run the thing an hour or so and then drop the oil and filter again.

Refill and run maybe a week and then change one last time, then back to normal regimens.

Forget the tweeky additives, the issue is to get that glycol out of the engine ASAP

The glycol will attack the bearings BIG TIME

Do not let the engine sit with that glycol oil mix in there. NOT EVEN

The lifters need to be flushed too, this is why I always use some ATF when dealing with a contaminated system.

On a gasser I would fill it totally with ATF but the diesel needs a little more body to the oil so go 50/50 and Idle only

GITERDONE. :)

Missy

[Kennedy]

Diesel fuel in your motor oil also helps to evacuate the crankcase for a "flush" of the coolant.

I'd suggest distilled water only in the cooling system for now until you can resolve the issue, but even that will still leave some coolant in the engine.

My Dmax was a fresh build and never had coolant in it. Only remnants in the heater core and radiator. It developed issues with porosity in the heads and put a lot of water through the exhaust system. I recently started the teardown and it was in a word UGLY. Thankfully this was primarily a post combustion leak, but some backed into a cylinder or two. Time will tell...

[jhornsby3]

Robyn,

I dumped the 15-40 milkshake and already have the new gasket in and almost back together. Is it wise to put the cocktail in and idle it dump it and continue? I like John's idea of fuel with the oil. That would be cheaper. Almost.:eek:

John

[jhornsby3]

Well got the mud out, flushed and added fresh oil and cheap filter. Planned on running to work and dumping the oil again over the weekend. Buuuuutt! Found that the coolant cross over is cracked on the pass side at the bolt tangs.:( If anybody has a spare they can be rid of, let me know. Even better if you have paypal and don't want the first born.:eek:

The saga continues.........

John