Three Questions From Someone New to 6.5

[dsnyder]

1) I just replaced the oil pressure switch and to do that I had to remove the fuel filter unit. Now, I can't get it to start. I have opened the port above the radiator hose junctions and fuel is pumping out of the valve. I did replace the filter while it was out. I can hear the booster pump run for about 5 to 10 seconds after I crank the starter. Any suggestions on getting it to start?

2) I cranked it over for a bit and now when I engage the starter, it sounds jammed. New starter?

3) Right above the last cylinder on the drivers side (back of the engine) to the right of diesel filter, on the valve cover, there are two black miniature hoses that are broken and appear to go no where. Where do they go and what do they do?

Thanks in advance!!! I've worked with VW diesels for years and I just got the 6.5- I never thought it could be so different from what I'm used to.

[DmaxMaverick]

1. The valve near the thermostat housing is the water drain, not the air bleed. The plastic cap on top of the filter is the air bleed. Open that until you get fuel flowing from it (with the fuel pump running).

2. Charge the batteries before condemning the starter. If it just "clunks", or clicks, it's probably dead batteries or a bad connection somewhere.

3. Depending on the model year and application (you didn't specify), they could be part of the plumbing for the vacuum operated wastegate control. This won't prevent a start, but will cause low power and heavy black exhaust smoke.

[dsnyder]

It is a 94 Chevy Suburban.

The starter does not click or clunk, it grinds in a rather nasty way.

[Robyn]

To bleed tha air from the fuel filter do as follows.

ON the RH side of the vehicle, over near the AC accumulator is a plastic cover (Odd shaped black plastic with some "Thumb" nuts holding it on.

Remove this cover.

Inside you will find some wires.

There is a littlle black "FUSE " Holder, lift the little tab and pull the wires and the fuse out so you can access it.

There is also a 1/4 inch stud in there too, this is 12V Hot all the time.

Touch the fuse that you pulled out to the stud.

The end of the fuse where the AMP marking is has a little slot thats BARE.

Touch that bare spot to the stud and the lift pump will run.

Open the air bleed on the filter (install a clear hose and run it into a can.

Run the lift pump until the fuel comes out clean and air free.

Open the water drain and do the same thing again.

Close all the bleeders and then run the lift pump for another 15 seconds.

If you have tried to start the rig and got air into the system, unhook the fuel feed hose at the top of the Injection pump and purge there too.

Reconnect and run the lift pump a little more.

Now start as normal.

Never try to bleed the air from a new filter using the starter to crank the engine.

As Maverick mentioned, check the batteries, charge and try again.


Missy

[DmaxMaverick]

It is a 94 Chevy Suburban.

The starter does not click or clunk, it grinds in a rather nasty way.


If it's "grinding", you could have a damaged/worn out flex plate ring gear, the starter isn't properly supported (read up about the support bracket/brace), loose/broken starter bolts, or possibly a damaged block. Rarely will a bad starter cause grinding. It's usually something else that will cause it, but can lead to damaging the starter.

To eliminate/confirm the ring gear as the suspect, when it grinds, rotate the engine manually a little and try again. If it engages normally, you probably have a worn spot on the ring gear (replace flex plate). If it continues to grind, no matter where you rotate the engine to, then it's likely a starter alignment issue (as described above).