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View Full Version : 2001 Silverado 2500HD - fuel filter pump



bscofield
02-17-2011, 12:30
I have a the truck listed in the title and have been having a very annoying problem. Truck is fine when running but getting it started can be a bear. Daily, sometimes multiple times per day (once on the way somewhere, once on the way back after having turned truck off), I have to use the manual pump on the top of fuel filter. The truck will start without it, but then dies after the truck moves about 10 ft. Anyone have any experience with these symptoms?

I have a assumed that fuel is running back down the line to the pump and when the air pocket hits the engine, it dies. Does that sound right? With that in mind, I was considering one of two things:

1- replace the manual pump with an electric- this somehow seemed like it may be a band-aid.

2- someone suggested today that it might be a bad bleeder plug.

Anyone have any ideas? Thanks in advance!!

cowboywildbill
02-17-2011, 13:47
Did you just change the filter recently ? It sounds like your sucking air in somewhere in the system. First place check the filter and O rings. If you haven't changed it, you might try that first.
Then check the fuel lines. There is no pressure on a stock system, so any leaks usually don't drip they let air in. Some of the Techs will probably chime in with more advanced stuff to try if the simple stuff doesn't help. Good Luck

DmaxMaverick
02-17-2011, 14:44
Welcome aboard!

While adding an electric fuel lift pump is recommended, it can, in this case, case more problems than it solves. If you have a significant air leak, as Wild Bill suggests, this can turn into an external fuel leak, depending on where you install the pump, and where the leak is. The HP fuel pump (located in the engine valley, driven by the cam gear) and the injectors will digest significant air as long as the pump doesn't lose prime. Once prime is lost, you must prime the system at the filter, as you're doing. An electric pump would eliminate this process, now and later. Still, you need to find the leak and fix it before adding anything to the system.

Start with the most simple. Check/change the fuel filter element, and inspect the fuel filter bleed screw for cracks, or a missing O-ring. Use a nut driver (socket), and don't overtighten it. It should only have to be snug.

Dawg
02-17-2011, 17:40
Just another idea....

My buddy had the same thing happen to his truck. We found the sensor at the bottom of the fuel filter was loose. When the problem first started, he couldn't find any leaking fuel. It didn't take a lot of driving before he found leaking fuel at the sensor. Tighted it up and good to go. This all started shortly after he changed his fuel filter. He just simply didn't tighten the sensor properly and it backed off.

JohnC
02-17-2011, 19:03
There have also been cases of defective filter housings causing leaks.

bscofield
02-17-2011, 20:09
Thanks for all the help guys. So outside of finding a fuel leak- it sounds like it's just time to start replacing stuff. Is that an accurate summary?

I guess I'll start with the fuel filter and make sure I get the new rubber rings on there and tighten down the sensor well and see if that gets me anything and go from there.

Thanks for the help! I'll check back in with my findings.

Kennedy
02-18-2011, 08:34
The best thing you can do for ANY Duramax fuel system is to add a lift pump. This will keep the fuel liquid and also prevent inward leaks.

Fuel filter seals and WIF sensors are common ailments with these engines. We've been getting rid of the WIF sensors and doing metal bleeder screws to help these areas, but the fuel will still "fizz" in the lines and this entrained air will collect in the filter.

Some related reading:

http://www.kennedydiesel.com/docs/Duramax%20Injector%20Failures.pdf

pushpole
02-19-2011, 08:34
I had my injectors replaced this week. The tech noted the 2 rubber lines to/from the fuel oil filter had started to crack. He replaced both. It looks like they could be replaced with some very minor interference removal (famous last words!). Looking at the invoice, the part #s appear to be 97216064 and 97216065 for my 2002. The system at these locations is under a slight vacuum to pull fuel through the filter to the HP pump. If these lines are cracked air could enter your fuel system. Even though I've had this beast for 9 years, I'm no expert. The big dogs in this forum will reply if I'm out to lunch. Good Luck!

DmaxMaverick
02-19-2011, 10:39
I had my injectors replaced this week. The tech noted the 2 rubber lines to/from the fuel oil filter had started to crack. He replaced both. It looks like they could be replaced with some very minor interference removal (famous last words!). Looking at the invoice, the part #s appear to be 97216064 and 97216065 for my 2002. The system at these locations is under a slight vacuum to pull fuel through the filter to the HP pump. If these lines are cracked air could enter your fuel system. Even though I've had this beast for 9 years, I'm no expert. The big dogs in this forum will reply if I'm out to lunch. Good Luck!

Not out to lunch....I like lunch. Very good point.

Those lines do crack early in life. Mine were cracked within 2 years (back in 2002). However, it's only the outer layer, which is only a protector for the hose layers inside. I replaced one of these lines years ago when I installed an aftermarket filter system. It's still cracked (sitting on a shelf), and the remaining OEM hoses are still cracked, in place, still doing their job. Not saying they couldn't crack and leak air, but it isn't likely they will, under normal conditions. The cracks are limited to the outer covering, and the inside hose material seems to be wearing very well. This is typical of most all rubber-type hoses with a soft covering (not the braided types).