More Power
02-14-2011, 11:43
What follows is a two year old email exchange I had with a member who was at the time a Christian Missionary and 6.5 owner serving in Africa. Jon is an engineer working to improve irrigation and farming practices and his wife is a nurse, serving in a local hospital. Their services are free to the host country.
What an awesome resource. If I may, I would like to request some advice. I am a missionary in Kenya, East Africa. A friend is returning to the U.S. soon, and I need to order whatever I might need, think I need, want, or can afford. It's a one chance shot. If I start pulling this engine apart and find I need something, I will be waiting 2 - 4 weeks for an “overnight package”, if I'm lucky. Here goes...
I have an early 1996 model-year K3500 6.5L TD with about 100,000 miles on the odometer. Due to the slow off-road driving with a loaded truck and trailer, the mileage doesn’t reflect the number of hours of driving. This makes the wear twice or more what the mileage would imply. Ten years in Africa is hard on a truck. We also have very high sulfur, low quality motor oil and sometimes dirty fuel. I use a 15W40 CH5 motor oil blend formulated by Cat USA for Kenya Fuel, which is produced locally. I change the engine oil about every 50 to 75 hours of use. This is the best oil sold locally without going synthetic. I’m sure this oil doesn’t measure up to Rotella. I service the vehicle regularly and have upgraded the air intake to that used on 1998 model year 6.5 trucks.
The truck has been experiencing progressively worse engine heating problems. I don't notice it so much in the engine temperature gauge, but as a lack of power on hills that I pull with common loads every month. The oil also appears to be breaking down more and I have now lost two PMD (electronic fuel injection pump driver modules) units in a year and a half as well as the fuel injection pump itself and the vehicle ECM. Yes, I pulled and cleaned the Radiator, might be a poor exhaust as it has some dings from rocks and needs to be replaced. The catalytic converter has been removed long ago. The fuel injectors and fuel lift pump / PMD were replaced together in 2005.
Recently, the engine experienced a collapsed valve lifter; at least I think that’s what it is. I heard some serious knocking on start up when the problem first appeared. I don't want to pull the engine until I have all the parts to do it right. I have the ticking in the engine and very dirty oil. I am changing the oil every trip and using cleaners. I have had the valve covers off, but couldn't find anything that appeared to be out of order. I am also replacing the truck’s frame, and doing major overhaul work on the whole truck. I am trying to get the parts in time to do this all together. My truck is my security for myself and my family. I don't want it down for any longer than it needs to be.
I have ordered new cylinder heads, head bolts, gasket sets, PMD relocation unit with new PMD and #9 resistor, dual thermostat cooling kit with 9 blade 21" fan, new larger oil cooler lines with new and a larger cooler, and lastly a 4" exhaust system. When I do rebuild the engine, I will replace all bearings, rings, lifters, rollers, and add better fuel filtration / Racor. I have a few questions that I would like your help with.
Do you recommend the Phaser dual-idler gear-drive timing set from Diesel Services Group in place of a new timing chain, and does the stud girdle kit from DSG work in increasing the strength of the lower end?
Would you recommend 18:1 pistons in my position? Will they work without any other engine modifications or do I need a new waste gate / or computer program / or ? to increase boost? I would be ready to do more at a later date, but I am at the end of my resources with everything I’ve planned so far. I don't have access to salvage / junk yard parts, but will need to order off-the-shelf kits and parts. I would like the internal engine modification completed, and then add parts later on as the situation dictates.
I am most concerned with improving engine reliability and lowering coolant temperatures, although having a little extra power to make it over the hills would be nice if I don't lose reliability. I travel over several mountain ranges that can reach 8000 ft. with multiple ups and downs to reach Nairobi for supplies. Our weather here can be somewhat variable, but usually quite warm. I have seen the temperatures reach 40 degrees at night only one time, and about 50 degrees once a year for a month at night. The rest of the time is hot, with 60 degree nights and 100+ days. Sometimes it can be in excess of 120 degrees air temp. The paved roads will literally cook, and can melt the tar out of the asphalt, leaving just the gravel. I am willing to look at anything that helps with cooling and reliability, and that is what led to the 18:1 compression ratio piston question. You have written before about lowering the factory compression ratio of 21.3:1 to 18:1 to help improve engine durability. I am thinking it might be best / safest to also to install an aftermarket the cam and to have a spare piston on stand-by just in case. I have written our mission regarding these last two thoughts and am waiting on their advice.
The shop services available to me here in Africa can be both great and awful at the same time. You can get anything done for a good price, but the quality of any precision work can be very poor. The chance of finding a local shop that does a good job machining an engine block is like rolling the dice. Because of this I won't be getting cylinders honed or have the crank turned. Obviously, balancing is out of the question. I think that gives you all the info I can give you on where I am with my rebuild. Like I said, reliability is the first, last and only requirement. New trucks have a 100% duty / tax / shipping cost increase, so that is not an option. I am hoping to get at least 10 years more out of this truck. I would like to see the odometer reach 250,000 miles. I have most of the tools needed, including a Tech II scan tool for setting the injection timing and diagnostics. I am fairly skilled at this sort of work, but have little experience with the internals of the 6.5. I do have help available from other missionaries in the area, but I trust myself most. I don't have an exhaust temperature or boost pressure gauge yet, but they are on my wish list.
Make: GMC
Model: K3500
V.I.N. 1GTHK39FOTE51xxxx
Engine size 6.5L Model F Ser. No. TIE676694
Glow Plugs - 9G
Fuel Injection Pump Make Stanadyne Nov. 03 Model Electric
Injector pump replaced 20 March 2005
Thanks for the time. Any help would be appreciated. If you don't want to commit to a recommendation, that is okay. Sorry that this has gone on to such great lengths. I just wanted you to have all the information available that might help. Thanks again.
Jon J.
Kenya
Continued next post:
What an awesome resource. If I may, I would like to request some advice. I am a missionary in Kenya, East Africa. A friend is returning to the U.S. soon, and I need to order whatever I might need, think I need, want, or can afford. It's a one chance shot. If I start pulling this engine apart and find I need something, I will be waiting 2 - 4 weeks for an “overnight package”, if I'm lucky. Here goes...
I have an early 1996 model-year K3500 6.5L TD with about 100,000 miles on the odometer. Due to the slow off-road driving with a loaded truck and trailer, the mileage doesn’t reflect the number of hours of driving. This makes the wear twice or more what the mileage would imply. Ten years in Africa is hard on a truck. We also have very high sulfur, low quality motor oil and sometimes dirty fuel. I use a 15W40 CH5 motor oil blend formulated by Cat USA for Kenya Fuel, which is produced locally. I change the engine oil about every 50 to 75 hours of use. This is the best oil sold locally without going synthetic. I’m sure this oil doesn’t measure up to Rotella. I service the vehicle regularly and have upgraded the air intake to that used on 1998 model year 6.5 trucks.
The truck has been experiencing progressively worse engine heating problems. I don't notice it so much in the engine temperature gauge, but as a lack of power on hills that I pull with common loads every month. The oil also appears to be breaking down more and I have now lost two PMD (electronic fuel injection pump driver modules) units in a year and a half as well as the fuel injection pump itself and the vehicle ECM. Yes, I pulled and cleaned the Radiator, might be a poor exhaust as it has some dings from rocks and needs to be replaced. The catalytic converter has been removed long ago. The fuel injectors and fuel lift pump / PMD were replaced together in 2005.
Recently, the engine experienced a collapsed valve lifter; at least I think that’s what it is. I heard some serious knocking on start up when the problem first appeared. I don't want to pull the engine until I have all the parts to do it right. I have the ticking in the engine and very dirty oil. I am changing the oil every trip and using cleaners. I have had the valve covers off, but couldn't find anything that appeared to be out of order. I am also replacing the truck’s frame, and doing major overhaul work on the whole truck. I am trying to get the parts in time to do this all together. My truck is my security for myself and my family. I don't want it down for any longer than it needs to be.
I have ordered new cylinder heads, head bolts, gasket sets, PMD relocation unit with new PMD and #9 resistor, dual thermostat cooling kit with 9 blade 21" fan, new larger oil cooler lines with new and a larger cooler, and lastly a 4" exhaust system. When I do rebuild the engine, I will replace all bearings, rings, lifters, rollers, and add better fuel filtration / Racor. I have a few questions that I would like your help with.
Do you recommend the Phaser dual-idler gear-drive timing set from Diesel Services Group in place of a new timing chain, and does the stud girdle kit from DSG work in increasing the strength of the lower end?
Would you recommend 18:1 pistons in my position? Will they work without any other engine modifications or do I need a new waste gate / or computer program / or ? to increase boost? I would be ready to do more at a later date, but I am at the end of my resources with everything I’ve planned so far. I don't have access to salvage / junk yard parts, but will need to order off-the-shelf kits and parts. I would like the internal engine modification completed, and then add parts later on as the situation dictates.
I am most concerned with improving engine reliability and lowering coolant temperatures, although having a little extra power to make it over the hills would be nice if I don't lose reliability. I travel over several mountain ranges that can reach 8000 ft. with multiple ups and downs to reach Nairobi for supplies. Our weather here can be somewhat variable, but usually quite warm. I have seen the temperatures reach 40 degrees at night only one time, and about 50 degrees once a year for a month at night. The rest of the time is hot, with 60 degree nights and 100+ days. Sometimes it can be in excess of 120 degrees air temp. The paved roads will literally cook, and can melt the tar out of the asphalt, leaving just the gravel. I am willing to look at anything that helps with cooling and reliability, and that is what led to the 18:1 compression ratio piston question. You have written before about lowering the factory compression ratio of 21.3:1 to 18:1 to help improve engine durability. I am thinking it might be best / safest to also to install an aftermarket the cam and to have a spare piston on stand-by just in case. I have written our mission regarding these last two thoughts and am waiting on their advice.
The shop services available to me here in Africa can be both great and awful at the same time. You can get anything done for a good price, but the quality of any precision work can be very poor. The chance of finding a local shop that does a good job machining an engine block is like rolling the dice. Because of this I won't be getting cylinders honed or have the crank turned. Obviously, balancing is out of the question. I think that gives you all the info I can give you on where I am with my rebuild. Like I said, reliability is the first, last and only requirement. New trucks have a 100% duty / tax / shipping cost increase, so that is not an option. I am hoping to get at least 10 years more out of this truck. I would like to see the odometer reach 250,000 miles. I have most of the tools needed, including a Tech II scan tool for setting the injection timing and diagnostics. I am fairly skilled at this sort of work, but have little experience with the internals of the 6.5. I do have help available from other missionaries in the area, but I trust myself most. I don't have an exhaust temperature or boost pressure gauge yet, but they are on my wish list.
Make: GMC
Model: K3500
V.I.N. 1GTHK39FOTE51xxxx
Engine size 6.5L Model F Ser. No. TIE676694
Glow Plugs - 9G
Fuel Injection Pump Make Stanadyne Nov. 03 Model Electric
Injector pump replaced 20 March 2005
Thanks for the time. Any help would be appreciated. If you don't want to commit to a recommendation, that is okay. Sorry that this has gone on to such great lengths. I just wanted you to have all the information available that might help. Thanks again.
Jon J.
Kenya
Continued next post: