Steering Geometry on a K3500

[JetBoater]

How do I know if my geometry is ok? I had the upper/lower ball joints replaced and when they did the alignment, they bumped the height up a good inch. All 4 tie rods were replaced along with steering dampner too. Oh, 2 new tires on the front as well...$$$

The adjusters were found upside down, so obviously somebody was monkeying around with the torsion bars before I bought the truck. The alignment shop said it is now perfect, and it does drive very nice.

Is there anyway to verify the geometry by looking at it? I will post a few pictures to assist review for comment... All the new hardware is guaranteed for life, (Spicer parts through Napa), but labor is not.

[JetBoater]

For your viewing pleasure...

Appearance height:

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l240/jetboater/Trucks/Steering%20Ball%20Joints%20and%20Tie%20Rod%20Ends/3.jpg


Passenger Side:

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l240/jetboater/Trucks/Steering%20Ball%20Joints%20and%20Tie%20Rod%20Ends/1.jpg

Drivers Side:

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l240/jetboater/Trucks/Steering%20Ball%20Joints%20and%20Tie%20Rod%20Ends/2.jpg

[JetBoater]

I should mention, the hardware replacement was done by a reputable suspension shop. The alignment was done by the same.

Dave just gave me a follow up call to see how the truck was driving... so I mentioned I was concerned about the torque-up in height.

He advised the truck was measured and found under height by a half inch, and it was bottoming out when he drove it. He guaranteed the height was raised no more than 3/4 to 1 inch over stock.. and it would not negatively cause any issues with wear on the steering parts. He was confident that the geometry was perfect for my needs, so I have to believe him... he is pretty convincing!

Unless anyone has anything to add, all is well for now on that subject :o

I did have 3 u-joints replaced in the rear drive shaft by Pat's Driveline. They advised me that the drive shafts were slightly out of phase and reinstalled it the way they found it.

I had 2 very bad and 1 bad u-joints making 'clink' noises (like a pellet hitting a tin can) while accelerating and decelerating. Now that the drive line is tight, i get a noticeable harmonic around 80kph to 90kph... other speeds are quiet. I guess I should try aligning the shafts in phase...doesn't hurt, right?

How come I always open a can of worms when I start replacing things! :confused:

[DmaxMaverick]

The shop's explanation sounds reasonable, and right. Springs sag over time, and you're approaching 18 years. That, and some people can't leave anything alone, and the P.O. may have been one of them (and "adjusted" the suspension).

Definitely get that propeller shaft in phase. Your "harmonics" will probably be more harmonic afterward. Shafts out of phase, especially multiples, will also kill U-joints, carriers and isolators. I suggest a trip back to the driveline shop for the correction (there are 8 points on a double to account for), unless they told you where they should be (then it's a snap to correct). It's interesting they didn't correct it during the R/R, or at least contact you about it. Most people who do their own joints don't pay attention to orientation, which is important to maintain the OEM phasing.

[JetBoater]

The shop advised me that the shafts were out of phase, and did not correct it because i did not complain of any vibration or issues. I went to them to correct the u-joints. It is simply their policy not to fix what isn't broke (yet).

They said to come back if I noticed any vibration or noise, which i certainly do, and will take it back to them next week if I don't solve myself first.

Take a look... the rear shafts were installed slightly counter clockwise and if I read them correctly, the rear pair should be removed and rotated clockwise...until the horizontal center line of the slip yoke ahead of the rear propeller shaft is 180° with the centerline of the yoke at the transfer case (opposed). They would counter each other when setup this way...correct?



http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l240/jetboater/Trucks/Steering%20Ball%20Joints%20and%20Tie%20Rod%20Ends/DSC01528-1.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l240/jetboater/Trucks/Steering%20Ball%20Joints%20and%20Tie%20Rod%20Ends/DSC01529-1.jpg

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l240/jetboater/Trucks/Steering%20Ball%20Joints%20and%20Tie%20Rod%20Ends/DSC01530-1.jpg



:o

[JetBoater]

I pulled out the drive shafts to separate/align the ears into phase.

I couldn't figure out how to remove the seal on the yoke to remove the splined end of the drive line. The seal prevents the spline from coming out... I tried unscrewing it like a thread, and attempted to gently nurse the seal off with a flat blade screw driver to pop it off, but no luck.

I will leave it to the experts.

I got some exercise rolling around in the rain though...lol.

[JetBoater]

Apparently the seal is factory, and it gets butchered when removed and would need to be replaced. I am glad I did not 'monkey' with it.

The drive-line shop pulled the 2 piece drive line and stuck it on their balancer... it was totally in balance. They said the ears being out of phase was direct from the factory and not to worry about it.

I am thinking by high pitch 'hum' at and only between 60-63 mph is the rear dually tires.. just another thing to look at when I have time. :cool: