Injection Pump...Rebuild or Replace??

[Ms54Coupe]

Those of you who have had to replace/rebuild your injection pump...what is your opinion on how to go about it? I don't know whether to replace it completely or bring it to a shop and have it rebuilt.

Whats your opinion and why?

Is the removal and replacement difficult? I'm already down to the pump (have the intake mani off etc.) so I am looking for advice on how to proceed from here.

Thanks,

Nate

[Robyn]

Here is what I would do.

If you are already to the IP, its not hard to get off.

Remove the Injectors lines in pairs and keep them that way (they have litle clamps that keep them paired, just remove the main clamps at the intake and then unhook the ends at the IP and the injectors.

CAP THE OPEN injectors.

There are three nuts that hold the IP to the cover.

MARK THE IP AND THE COVER WITH A SHARP SCRIBE MARK, OR USE A CHISSEL AND STAMP ACROSS THE TWO.

This will allow you to realign the IP well when reinstalling.

Next, remove the oil fill pipe from the cover, two nuts and pull the pipe from the rubber.

HAND rotate the engine and access the three bolts that hold the IP drive gear to the IP THROUGH THE OIL FILL PIPE HOLE.

Once the bolts are out and the nuts are off, the IP will slide out easily to the rear.

YOU CAN ONLY INSTALL THIS ONE WAY AS THE BOLT PATTERN IS NOT SIMETRICAL

You can't screw it up.

Never turn the engine with the starter while doing an IP service/removal

Take the IP to a good stanadyne certified shop and have them do the magic.

Now reinstall in reverse order.

MAKE A LITTLE MAP OF THE IP LINES AND MARK THE LINE PAIRS WITH DUCT TAPE AND A FELT MARKER

LH side = 1-3-5-7 RH side = 2-4-6-8

The lines will be paired 1-3 5-7 and 2-4 6-8

Just make sure that you make your map so you can get the kines back.

A crow foot and a short 3/8 breaker bar is real handy for getting some of the lower IP lines loose.

A careful inspection of how you take the lines off will make it easier to get them back on.

Once the new IP is back on, Prime the fuel system withthe electric pump to get airfree fuel to the IP.

Remove the glow plugs, spin the engine untill you have fuel blowing out, reinstall the glow plugs and fire it up.

Pretty straight foreward.

Your scribe line will get the IP plenty close enough to run fine.

You may want to get the TDC offset checked with a scan tool to make sure but the scribe line will get it close enough that the ECM will not sqawk.

Missy

[85-m1028]

I've been pondering the exact same question.. My local shop want's a $1000.00 to rebuild my pump, or I found a few vendors on e-bay selling remaned pumps for $500.00 and up.

Been debating if the $$ saved is worth it!

[ccc]

Do you know for sure the pump is bad and it's not a fuel shut off valve that has failed? I wasn't getting fuel and Rameye suggested I swap out the fuel shut off valve, I did and that did it. I got a used pump from a bone yard for $25 and it had a shut off valve on it that I used.

[ccc]

Do you know for sure it isn't the fuel shut off valve? I was experiencing the same thing. Rameye suggested I change out the fuel shut off valve so I took one off a pump I got at a bone yard and that turned out to be the problem. I haven't researched your thread so you may have already checked that but it would be a shame to buy a pump if all you need is the shut off valve. Good luck.

[tommac95]

In early 2009 i went to our local pump calibration and rebuild shop ... and the owner said the price on the new pumps had dropped to about a thousand (or eleven hundred $) , and so the rebuild option was (in his estimation) no longer worthwhile. I bought new. If the pump has less than a certain mileage it might be worth having a shop check it out. (maybe 50k or 75kMi)

cleanliness is imperative for the injectors to avoid clogging...

>> If your engine has over 150kMi , now might be a good time to renew the timing chain.

>>>> I strongly recommend installing an additional (redundant/series) fuel filter in the line from the tank--
----- there is too much chance of the single OEM filter passing crud , which vastly decreases FIP MTBF.

[Ms54Coupe]

Thanks guys...I did not think that the fuel shut off valve failure was related to a no start...I thought it was more associated with stalling but I am not sure...worth a check at least.

[Kennedy]

We've been doing more new than reman these days. It's not all that much more for new than reman and everything is new and warranty is 2 years.

[Ms54Coupe]

I'm going to check a few things before I pull the pump completely out. What is an OSTE? What are the signs of OSTE failure?

[JohnC]

Optical Sensor?

Unplug it and see if it starts then.

[Ms54Coupe]

How do I manually turn the engine? Is there a bolt inside the pulley for the crank down in front? What size bolt is it? I have everything off and the pump is ready to remove I just need to take the nuts off and the pump should come off.



Here is what I would do.

If you are already to the IP, its not hard to get off.

Remove the Injectors lines in pairs and keep them that way (they have litle clamps that keep them paired, just remove the main clamps at the intake and then unhook the ends at the IP and the injectors.

CAP THE OPEN injectors.

There are three nuts that hold the IP to the cover.

MARK THE IP AND THE COVER WITH A SHARP SCRIBE MARK, OR USE A CHISSEL AND STAMP ACROSS THE TWO.

This will allow you to realign the IP well when reinstalling.

Next, remove the oil fill pipe from the cover, two nuts and pull the pipe from the rubber.

HAND rotate the engine and access the three bolts that hold the IP drive gear to the IP THROUGH THE OIL FILL PIPE HOLE.

Once the bolts are out and the nuts are off, the IP will slide out easily to the rear.

YOU CAN ONLY INSTALL THIS ONE WAY AS THE BOLT PATTERN IS NOT SIMETRICAL

You can't screw it up.

Never turn the engine with the starter while doing an IP service/removal

Take the IP to a good stanadyne certified shop and have them do the magic.

Now reinstall in reverse order.

MAKE A LITTLE MAP OF THE IP LINES AND MARK THE LINE PAIRS WITH DUCT TAPE AND A FELT MARKER

LH side = 1-3-5-7 RH side = 2-4-6-8

The lines will be paired 1-3 5-7 and 2-4 6-8

Just make sure that you make your map so you can get the kines back.

A crow foot and a short 3/8 breaker bar is real handy for getting some of the lower IP lines loose.

A careful inspection of how you take the lines off will make it easier to get them back on.

Once the new IP is back on, Prime the fuel system withthe electric pump to get airfree fuel to the IP.

Remove the glow plugs, spin the engine untill you have fuel blowing out, reinstall the glow plugs and fire it up.

Pretty straight foreward.

Your scribe line will get the IP plenty close enough to run fine.

You may want to get the TDC offset checked with a scan tool to make sure but the scribe line will get it close enough that the ECM will not sqawk.

Missy

[Robyn]

You can use an extension and a 15mm socket. Just put the socket on one of the 4 bolts that holds the serp drive pulley.

The engine does not take that much to turn it over.

Don't forget the 3 bolts that must be accessed through the oil filler tube hole in the front cover.

Good luck

Missy