emt_hound
02-05-2011, 12:58
Hi, Everybody!
The hardest part of trying to restore a vehicle when you're deployed overseas is the length of time you have to wait between when you place an order for a part and when you receive it. The second hardest part is making absolutely sure you've ordered the correct part. Nothing makes a day go from sunny to crummy like opening up a box and finding something incompatible with your vehicle.
With that in mind, I carefully selected and ordered the Heath PMD isolator kit back before Christmas in the hopes that it would cure the Blazer's no-start woes. This is also part of a larger effort to replace and/or restore everything that's near the end of its servicible life. For example, the serpentine belt is actually in tatters (never seen one this bad and not broken) and the oil is at least five years old...possibly older. The air filter was from 2002 and the original PMD is actually the original Stanadyne (to its credit, it made it 90k).
My ability to diagnose is extremely limited by the fact that the truck is sitting on the side of a public street and my tool box is limited to a set of pliars, a set of wrenches, and a set of sockets. So...I decided back in December that the symptoms prior to it completely failing to start sounded like PMD failure and I decided to go ahead and swap it out.
Anyway, I received the Heath kit last week. It looks very nice: D-Tech PMD pre-mounted on a 1/4" thick sheet of brass. Four 15mm bolts sit in three inch bolt-mounts to extend the brass heat-sink away from the skid plate. I was eager to install it right away but it has been freezing cold outside and raining cats and dogs for two weeks straight. Finally, today we had an intersection of sunshine, warm-ish weather, and me with a free weekend.
I pulled the four bolts holding the skid plate up and removed it completely for ease of work. I used the pre-printed template on the Heath box to mark my drill-points. The instructions say to use a 7/16" drill bit. Unfortunately, I was only able to borrow a small electric drill with a 1/4" drill bit. I solved this problem by rounding the heck out of my initial 1/4" holes until the bolts barely squeezed through.
I mounted the PMD Isolator onto the skid plate and reinstalled the skid plate on the Blazer. I threaded the harness through the hole beneath the radiator and up through the open space next to the driver-side battery. There are no wire coat hangers around here and I was a bit stuck as to how I was going to get the harness up off the ground (as well as how I was going to fish out the original PMD's connector). Fortunately, the local trash heap is only a few blocks away. After digging around the garbage for a few minutes (yes, it's as gross as it sounds), I found a length of chicken wire. A few snips with the pliars and I had a suitable guide-wire.
I was able to use needle-nose pliars to disengage the original PMD connector. I also got lucky on my first try at grabbing it with the same pliars. There was just enough play to bring it into view. The Heath connector clipped right into it and I tucked the whole mess back in the original spot. Obviously, I left the original PMD mounted on the side of the fuel injection pump. I'm not even sure how'd I go about removing that with what few tools I have.
I stole some zip-ties from the guys at work and carefully ziptied the harness out of the way of the belt and fan.
I'd love to test it out and tell you the truck's running...but I can't. I have two dead batteries and no way to replace them. I'm still waiting on the battery tender I ordered. I'm hoping I can rehab the batteries with a little trickle charge. :)
During my clean up, I decided to check out the oily mess that was coating the oil sump. When I first spotted it, I assumed it was most likely oil leaking from a crack in the pan or from a stripped out plug. However, the truck's been parked for six weeks and the mess still looks wet and actively leaking.
I'm going to try to post a picture here: http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/photopost/data/500/medium/TrannyFluidOnOilSump.JPG
Anyway, I crawled over to take a peak. The entire bottom of the sump and the surrounding area is wet with oil...but not engine oil. It's pale pink and slippery...so I'm assuming its transmission fluid.
The area around the transmission pan is dry as a bone, so I'm a little perplexed. Is there anything carrying transmission fluid that hangs over or near enough to the oil pan to leak onto it like this? I'm hoping to dry it all up tomorrow and (hopefully) spot the leak. It's definitely still dripping as there is now a stain on the pavement.
I doubt there's anything I'll be able to do about it until I get the Blazer States-side, but I'd like to know what I have on my hands.
The hardest part of trying to restore a vehicle when you're deployed overseas is the length of time you have to wait between when you place an order for a part and when you receive it. The second hardest part is making absolutely sure you've ordered the correct part. Nothing makes a day go from sunny to crummy like opening up a box and finding something incompatible with your vehicle.
With that in mind, I carefully selected and ordered the Heath PMD isolator kit back before Christmas in the hopes that it would cure the Blazer's no-start woes. This is also part of a larger effort to replace and/or restore everything that's near the end of its servicible life. For example, the serpentine belt is actually in tatters (never seen one this bad and not broken) and the oil is at least five years old...possibly older. The air filter was from 2002 and the original PMD is actually the original Stanadyne (to its credit, it made it 90k).
My ability to diagnose is extremely limited by the fact that the truck is sitting on the side of a public street and my tool box is limited to a set of pliars, a set of wrenches, and a set of sockets. So...I decided back in December that the symptoms prior to it completely failing to start sounded like PMD failure and I decided to go ahead and swap it out.
Anyway, I received the Heath kit last week. It looks very nice: D-Tech PMD pre-mounted on a 1/4" thick sheet of brass. Four 15mm bolts sit in three inch bolt-mounts to extend the brass heat-sink away from the skid plate. I was eager to install it right away but it has been freezing cold outside and raining cats and dogs for two weeks straight. Finally, today we had an intersection of sunshine, warm-ish weather, and me with a free weekend.
I pulled the four bolts holding the skid plate up and removed it completely for ease of work. I used the pre-printed template on the Heath box to mark my drill-points. The instructions say to use a 7/16" drill bit. Unfortunately, I was only able to borrow a small electric drill with a 1/4" drill bit. I solved this problem by rounding the heck out of my initial 1/4" holes until the bolts barely squeezed through.
I mounted the PMD Isolator onto the skid plate and reinstalled the skid plate on the Blazer. I threaded the harness through the hole beneath the radiator and up through the open space next to the driver-side battery. There are no wire coat hangers around here and I was a bit stuck as to how I was going to get the harness up off the ground (as well as how I was going to fish out the original PMD's connector). Fortunately, the local trash heap is only a few blocks away. After digging around the garbage for a few minutes (yes, it's as gross as it sounds), I found a length of chicken wire. A few snips with the pliars and I had a suitable guide-wire.
I was able to use needle-nose pliars to disengage the original PMD connector. I also got lucky on my first try at grabbing it with the same pliars. There was just enough play to bring it into view. The Heath connector clipped right into it and I tucked the whole mess back in the original spot. Obviously, I left the original PMD mounted on the side of the fuel injection pump. I'm not even sure how'd I go about removing that with what few tools I have.
I stole some zip-ties from the guys at work and carefully ziptied the harness out of the way of the belt and fan.
I'd love to test it out and tell you the truck's running...but I can't. I have two dead batteries and no way to replace them. I'm still waiting on the battery tender I ordered. I'm hoping I can rehab the batteries with a little trickle charge. :)
During my clean up, I decided to check out the oily mess that was coating the oil sump. When I first spotted it, I assumed it was most likely oil leaking from a crack in the pan or from a stripped out plug. However, the truck's been parked for six weeks and the mess still looks wet and actively leaking.
I'm going to try to post a picture here: http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/photopost/data/500/medium/TrannyFluidOnOilSump.JPG
Anyway, I crawled over to take a peak. The entire bottom of the sump and the surrounding area is wet with oil...but not engine oil. It's pale pink and slippery...so I'm assuming its transmission fluid.
The area around the transmission pan is dry as a bone, so I'm a little perplexed. Is there anything carrying transmission fluid that hangs over or near enough to the oil pan to leak onto it like this? I'm hoping to dry it all up tomorrow and (hopefully) spot the leak. It's definitely still dripping as there is now a stain on the pavement.
I doubt there's anything I'll be able to do about it until I get the Blazer States-side, but I'd like to know what I have on my hands.