Leaky Injection Pump

[JTodd]

I have been fighting a diesel leak from the top of the engine. This morning, I replace the rubber lines to and from the fuel filter bowl. One line to the IP and the other to the water drain. While there I cleaned up the fuel that had accumulated below the intake manifold. After putting everything back together and firing it up - still leaking. Since I can now rule out the fuel lines, I looked elsewhere. I noticed that the there is some type of solenoid on the top of the injection pump that is leaking. It is about the size of a 35mm film container and there is a 6mm allen holding it down. Before I start pulling that apart, what can I expect? Are there o-rings in there I can replace? What is that part?

Any help appreciated.

[More Power]

If you're referring to the FSO (Fuel Shut-Off) solenoid, yes, they have leaked in the past. The older style required an Allen wrench to remove, where the newer style have a hex head for a socket or end wrench. The older style can develop an internal leak that allows fuel to migrate up the barrel of the solenoid, then ooze out through the electrical wire port or elsewhere on the body of the solenoid.

Some have had little difficulty removing the solenoid. Some have had a big problem. In some cases, the body twisted off the base. This required them to make a special tool that engaged the locking tabs on the solenoid base.

Otherwise, removing and replacing a solenoid requires no special tools or recalibration.

Jim

[JTodd]

Does the entire thing unscrew using the hex or is there something else there such as a locking tab? I started to use a hex, but after putting mild pressure on it without moving, I decided to wait until I had more information. If I put a vise grip or small pipe wrench around the cylinder, am I still in danger of separating the top and the bottom? Does the outer cylinder bull way from the threaded base?

Thanks for your help.

[ccc]

I recently replaced my fuel shutoff solenoid and I am one of those referred to as having a really hard time! One the one I had, the top (Which had a hex head stamped into it) turned and sheared the rivets holding it to the body of the solenoid. I ended up having to move all the hoses and tubing out of the way and appling a torch to it before I put a set of vicegrips on it to get it to turn. I also found some metal in the IP inlet where the solenoid screws in, so if you have any problems getting it off, I would suggest you put a magnet in there to make sure nothing fell through the solenoid when you were removing it. If you have fuel coming out the top of the solenoid a torch may be out for you! Good luck getting that thing off.

[More Power]

If the allen wrench isn't enough, you may need to use a pipe wrench on the barrel of the solenoid. If the barrel twists off, you'll have to make a tool that engages the notches in the base of the solenoid. A little heat might help, but an open flame would worry me.....

I suspect the factory may have wrongly used the strongest locking sealant, instead of the milder thread locker in those cases where it's a bitch to get out.

Jim

[JTodd]

Will heat release the thread lock? How much heat is needed? If I clean the area with brake parts cleaner, then use a low flame of a propane torch, maybe I can get it out of there without destroying the thing.

[DmaxMaverick]

Don't use a torch. Use a heat gun (paint/floor stripper). Slow, constant torque on the solenoid while heating will indicate how much heat is needed. Wear gloves.

[JTodd]

With the use of a very hot heat gun, things went pretty well. To make it easier, I removed the upper intake and the thermostat. With those out of the way, a pair of large vise grips was able to clamp around it. That, and an allen wrench at the top and it broke free pretty easily, after about 15 minutes of heat.

I put the new one in, buckled everything up and it fired right up. It looks like the leak has stopped. Thanks for the help