View Full Version : Transmission lines leaking
Has anyone had the tranny line leak at the press-on fitting? I developed a leak at 33,000 on all 3 hoses and they were replaced by the dealer. I now have 65,000 and they are leaking again. Of course GM is not covering them this time. Is this going to be a 30,000 mile repair? I have the 2006 3500 dually 6.6 Thanks, Tim
I just recently did mine again, second time in 40 something thousand miles. They have yet another new design, The only reason I replaced them rather than modifying the ones I had. Got the lines from GMpartsdirect for less than $100. Fingers crossed....
New part numbers:
20835123
20835125
20835127
In talking to my dealer service contacts there has been no change in the outcome of using the OE lines. They leak once they see some cold.
It's too bad, usually the OE stuff is some of the best. After how many years of production and still no solution? Looks like I'll have a new project...
Kennedy Diesel
Do you offer a line set for a 2008 2500HD to replace the OEM lines?
I will be now on my third set in 70,000 miles
Believe I also saw a post that stated I can carefully cut the aluminum crip off and reclamp the hose with some special clamps you guys sell??
there has been no change in the outcome of using the OE lines. They leak once they see some cold.
I kept the old lines. Maybe next summer I can "fix" them and they'll be ready when I need them in a year or two...http://cooperjr.skyportservices.net/banghead.gif
I had to replace mine on my '07. The temperature got down to the 60's and they let go. Dealer replaced under warranty. No problem with my five speed '03, just the six speed '07.
Kennedy Diesel
Do you offer a line set for a 2008 2500HD to replace the OEM lines?
I will be now on my third set in 70,000 miles
Believe I also saw a post that stated I can carefully cut the aluminum crip off and reclamp the hose with some special clamps you guys sell??
I'm still researching this. Lines are at the fab shop for bids
Checking a few facts:
1) Seems that most everybody has had this happen. Even in the moderate temps of Hawaii :confused:
2) Seems that most have had it repeat
3) Has anybody found their fix to be permanent?
I've heard enough to believe that #1 and 2 are absolutely correct. The only remaining question is are the latest line part numbers posted by JC the real deal?
My gut tells me no way will these lines last, but I also don't want to tool up for something that already has an inexpensive and permanent fix.
gophergunner
01-10-2011, 17:11
I've fixed mine so far....
About 15 000 km's and no problems yet. I just recently had my trans filters changed as well, for as much as they can see when they drop the pan they said it looks all good in there....
I've posted these pictures before as well. If I had to do it again, I would have cut more tube off and used longer hoses so its not as sharp of a bend.
Like I said, so far so good but I guess only time will tell. Keep in mind there is a difference in internal diameter meaning the hoses are smaller, under heavy towing and such maybe they won't flow enough to keep cool enough....?:confused:
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f350/gophergunner/IMG_0070.jpg
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f350/gophergunner/IMG_0073.jpg
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f350/gophergunner/IMG_0072.jpg
Nice fix. We looked at a compression type fitting, but had concerns about tubing roundness (it's not) as well as the wall thickness /strength of the tube. Corrosion hidden inside the compression nut could be a concern. That and there are now 4 joints per line versus 2 per line.
I looked real hard at Gophergunner's solution and probably would have gone with it if there hadn't been yet another new line to try. It was starting to get cold and I needed a quick fix. My only concern with his fix was that the rubber lines are 1/2" ID whereas the originals are 5/8". The difference isn't that great, though, since the tubing is only 9/16 (+/-) ID. My local NAPA had the fittings and the crimp tool. The cost was comparable to the new lines.
My truck is an early MY '06. The original lines started leaking late in '07 and were replaced on warranty at around 17,000 miles with a new, improved set. That set failed last fall, 2010, at around 45,000 miles. If all goes according to schedule, the new (improved new improved) set will last until the fall of 2013 or maybe even 2014, so, one way or the other, I may not have to deal with them again...
If I do, I have this last set to fool around with. Being an aircraft mechanic, I'll most likely flare them and make up lines with AN fittings.
gophergunner
01-11-2011, 15:22
If I had to do it again I might also consider the Swagelok type fitting and a hose would be a separate piece of the compression fitting. More pieces I know, but they are stainless and a better chance of making something match up to maintain the actual 5/8" diameter.
http://www.airoil.com/uploads/assets/tylok_part.jpg
Guys
I have the line repair kit in the photo from All Season Diesel sold as an Allison cooling line repair hose kit- it has aluminum fittings on high pressure hose and uses EARL's high performance fittings which appear to be pretty tough. The compression fitting is anodized aluminum long nut design with a brass ferrule. I am going to give it a try, have been told they have installed many of these with no problrms
Any thoughts before I cut the line this morning
DmaxMaverick
01-15-2011, 09:52
Generally, it is not recommended to use compression type tube fittings for automotive applications. The tubing is usually softer than the fittings are designed, and weather and vibration will usually see them leak after a short period. Not saying they don't work in some cases, just not ideal, and probably not much better than the leaky OEM's. Flaring is simple, and can be done with inexpensive tools available anywhere. A good flare will last a lifetime. Flare fittings (AN/Mil-Spec) are available at most speed shops, farm supply stores, and numerous online outlets. If you know the tubing size, fittings, tubing, hose and adapters can be ordered to fit anything. An added bonus is, in the end it is the least expensive and longest lasting option.
Dmax
I agree completely with flared fittings being the way to go, but I went ahead and installed this unit and I will be severe duty testing it on one line only (Lower fitting into the radiator, cooling hose to the far right, passenger side) over the next few weeks in upper wisconsin- some significant below zero evenings are forecast and although I know it is not recommended I will be doing a lot of idling to stay warm during the day as well
Will let you know how this fix works, my previous experience in heavy industry has shown the long nut compression fittings tend to do pretty well in handling vibration- but using a brass ferrule on mild steel tubing is somthing I have not tried before.
I did remove one fitting after tightening and the ferrule did compress well into the steel tubing, more than I thought it would
Thanks for the reply
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