Starter bad?

[ccc]

I have a 1997 K1500 6.5 "S" model that many of you helped get running and I appreciate all the help. It isn't starting again and I noticed that as I cranked the starter, it has been turning over slower. I took all the battery cables off and cleaned the connections. It seemed that after only 15 or 20 seconds of cranking the batteries would be down. They are about three months old and not the biggest (650 cold cranking amps) The passenger batterie seemed to drain really quick so I replaced it with a 900 cold amp battery today. When I replaced the batteries, I put in all new battery bolts and sprayed electrical cleaner on all parts. The starter barely turned over. I know the cleaner is non conductive but it also evaporates really quickly. I sprayed around to get grease and oil off the motor, components etc. and when I tried the key the starter doesn't do anything now so my quesion is, do you think the starter is shot? It didn't make any particularly different noises, it just slowed down and down. I did get under the truck to check connections but I can't even see them! Looks like I will have to take off the transmission cooler lines to get the starter out if I replace it so if anybody has any suggestions.... Thanks.

[Robyn]

The electrical connections on the starter are easily accessed by removing the RH front tire/wheel and then removing the rubber inner fender flap.

You can sit right in the wheel house and access all the starter electrical and the rear starter support bolt/hanger. (always replace this piece and bolt)

The battery cables on these are notorious for failing inside the crimped areas.

The grounds can fail too.
What happens is tha the core of the cable corrodes and then its no good.
You can't judge the cable end by what you see exposed.

The Battery crossover cable ties the two together, if one ground is bad the system will not work right.

The alternator hooks to only one battery in the system.
Be sure that you are getting 14V to both batteries when the thing is running.

If the voltage is not almost identical, then a cable is likley to blame.

Be sure your cables are good, then move onto the starter.

Good luck

Robyn

[ccc]

Thanks Robyn, I did as you suggested. I put a jack under the passenger side, removed the wheel and inner rubber wheel well. I then took the starter cable off and replaced it. I put everything back together again and I don't get anything when I turn the key. The lights work, there is current to the starter post the cable attaches to but it doesn't click, growl or anything. Dare I take a screwdriver and bridge the two big posts (which I assume would bypass the solenoid?) Or should I just pull the starter. I found a place that will rebuild it in a day for about $100. They have built farm tractor starters for me in the past and do a good job. Are there just three bolts holding the starter, the two on the bottom and the one that secures the mount in back? I read some of your posts about working on your vehicle outside, I too am blessed with an Infinitely high roof but so far the weather really hasn't been too bad but I think I am running out of time.

[JohnC]

Jumping the solenoid is of limited worth. the solenoid first throws the starter gear into engagement with the flywheel *then* energizes the starter motor.

One thing you can try is jump from the hot wire to the (yellow?) solenoid wire. This eliminates the key and all safety switches. (Use appropriate cautions!) If the starter turns the engine then, look at the wiring from the key on down. If not, at the least you need a solenoid.

[ccc]

Thank you John for the diagnostic help, the starter was indeed shot. I took it off (thanks Robyn for the tip on going through the wheel well, that helped a lot!) and the tech broke it open and showed me the armature. It was ground up pretty badly. He said I was cranking it too long and the armature contact, the copper part the contacts, well contact, were heating up and warping which caused excessive wear. I did get 13 years out of the starter though! I put new batteries in, replaced the cables and it spins like a top. Now back to trying to figure out why it won't start. It was running fine last week. I am getting fuel to the pump but with heavey snow falling, I didn't want to open the fuel line at the injector and get water contamination so I don't know if I am getting fuel to the injectors or not. I did energize the fuel shutoff valve and it sounds kind of weak (it was a used one from the bone yard). The glow plugs seem to be functioning properly, they energize in time to the light on the dash. I do get an acrid smell when I crank it but it doesn't act like it wants to start. In fact, it acts just like it did when Rameye told me to take off the old shutoff valve. Going to single digits daytime and negative at night for the next several days so I probably won't do anything to it for a bit but I still need to get the 4wd system working too. Thanks John and Robyn for your help, I wouldn't even consider trying most of this without the confidence that you and lots of others out there are willing to help.

[JohnC]

Don't worry about water. Just crack the nut on a convenient injector. If it's pumping fuel the fuel will seep out, but no water will get in unless you completely remove the line.

[ccc]

I cracked an injector line and I definately have fuel to the injectors. With the new starter it cranks over faster than it has since I bought the truck ten years ago. I am getting a little white smoke out the pipe when I quit cranking and I am getting code P0280 and P0308. The glow plug light is cycling as it always has and there is continuity at the glow plug. The temp is 24. Any ideas?

[JohnC]

Sounds like a glow plug issue. White smoke is unburnt fuel. I don't know what P0280 is, put codes in that range as well as P0308 are missfire codes for a single cylinder. Nothing that would prevent it from starting.