Injection Pump Adjustment

[joeysworld]

1989 GMC r1500 Suburban 2 wd 700r4 Banks sidwinder

I'm looking to adjust my injection pump to allow more fuel into the cylinders for more boost.



Is there a website or video that anyone can direct me to so I can make the necessary adjustments?

[DmaxMaverick]

Try This Page (http://www.thedieselpage.com/password.htm). I hear it's pretty good.

[joeysworld]

Sweet. Do you get kickbacks for the promo?

[DmaxMaverick]

Most "kickbacks" I get involve extensive repair (or healing), so I sure hope not.

Welcome aboard!

[Subzilla]

And if you do want a non-official video, I found this one to be useful just to see someone else doing it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hnoct-21vNY

I did mine for the first time just a few months ago. Wasn't that difficult at all.

[Robyn]

Welcome aboard

Now seeing as you have the Banks system on the truck already. head on over to the Banks engineering website, click on Chevy GMC diesel in the upper LH corner of the opening page.

Once that opens go to the 6.2 diesel section. In there you will find a free download of the Banks system owners manual.

The manual explaines in great detail how to adjust the injection pump.

The pictures are good.

Now a word of caution, if the Banks kit was installed correctly, the IP would have been set at that time.

The max boost with a Banks turbo is to be 10 PSI or close.

The max exhaust temp should not exceed 1000F

Trying to get more than 10 PSI boost out of a Banks system is taking this equipment beyond what it was designed to do.

The Banks Turbo charger is designed without a wastegate and its internal contruction limits its ability to produce more than about 10 PSI

10 PSI is the magic number on the 6.2, going beyond this will just make loads of intake air temperature and more exhaust gas temp with little additional power.

The head gaskets on the 6.2 really do not do well with much above 10 PSI

The Original Banks Data places the 6.2 at around 204 HP with the system set up properly.

This is lightyears ahead of the stock trucks of the time.

Sooooooooo if your boost is right around 10 PSI now and under a good hard pull, you can get the EGT up to near 1000F, your pump is set correctly.

More fuel is just gonna make tons of BLACK SMOKE and little else.

The results of all the smoke is heat and eventually a need for head gaskets and possibly a set of pistons.

The 6.2 Pistons are not coated on the crowns as are other engines of today.

Good luck and have fun
Keep us posted

Missy

[Subzilla]

Got the ATS on the Sub this summer and could only see about 6 - 7 pounds. I thought that was the max untill this past weekend. Was climbing some NC mountains on the interstate and downshifted to drive. Decided to see what she would do so I really put my foot in it. It jumped on up to 10 for a few seconds before I decided to let off. Guess I"m still a little bit hesitant to push the 312k mile engine even though I do have the new head gaskets. Boy, it sure is much more fun to drive now. :D I can very easily maintain speed on these hills with mid EGT's where before I was always downshifting and trying to stay above the minimum speed without maxxing out the EGT's and blacksmoking the cars behind me.

[joeysworld]

Cheers, and thank you for the greetings and the very iformative reply's!

My GMC at hard acceleration is reading 6, maybe 7 psi of boost without tons of black smoke.

I am a beginner at the diesel engine experience, so bare with me!

I just finished reading banks' instructions on how to adjust injection pump fuel delivery. The instructions sound very straight forward with the exceptions of 1989 and later vehicles refering to steps 4a, 5a, 6a and 7a.

There have been several different numbers regarding egt readings. I have heard 900-950 pre turbo. 1100-1150 after turbo. I usually keep egt's at about 800 and I have seen egt's climb to nearly 900 on my gauge.

I travel an area in which I frequent often called, "the grapvine". It's a mountain range where I have taken the GMC to what is limits on the egt gauge. I hope to be able to adjust the fuel delivery enough to be able to get a good velocity up the grade of the mountain.

I have owned the 6.2 banks powered suburban now for 2 months. I have put nearly 2k+ miles and have got an average of 21+ mpg on the 2 and a half plus ton rig.

I will update a.s.a.p. when weather permits!

[Robyn]

The Banks Pyro is normally found in the down pipe.

Just consider 900-950 as an absolute maximum reading.

Now if it settles in and holds at 900F you can run there for long periods of time without any worries.

Going beyond the 900F reading can be dangerous.

The issue is that each cylinder can be fueling differently and you could have a few that are actually running hotter than the average that your gauge is seeing.

The best spot for the gauge is in the crossover pipe, right below the LH manifold outlet.

Just remove the downpipe and weld in a fitting to allow the Pyro to screw in.

Cap the one in the downpipe.

At the manifold outlet consider 1000F to be a safe spot and no more.

Banks says 1100F but dont push it.

You can likely screw the HP screw in a tad more, say 1/8th turn.


Missy

[arveetek]

The Banks Pyro is normally found in the down pipe.


Missy

The Banks kits that I have installed have a threaded port in the exhaust manifold just below where the turbo mounts to the manifold. This places the probe right into the exhaust stream before it enters the turbo. This is about the best spot in my opinion. This means the Banks probe is telling you pre-turbo temperatures, which would be safe around 1100*.

Casey

[Robyn]

Banks made some running changes in their kits.

I have owned 3 Banks kits and two had the probe in the pipe.

I agree, the manifold is the best place.

I do worry about getting up to 1100F
The reasoning here is simple, no two cylinders are going to be burning exactly the same.

When you near the upper end of the envelope (Heat) there is little room between power and "MeltVille" :eek:

One cylinder thats got an injector with a slight issue could be just a bit too far at that point and drill a hole in a piston.

I like the 1000F as the redline and a safe solid 900F as a point at which you can maintain for extended periods of time.

A 6.2 with good squirts will run happily all day long at 900-950F

I have seen 6.2's with the Banks kits that had nasty holes drilled into pistons.

This had nothing to do with the Banks components, but instead, everything to do with the driver and the condition of the injectors.

Worn injectors will kill a turboed engine really quick if you run them up into the "Hot Zone"


Have fun

Missy

[scarmic]

Has anyone ever tried fitting steel inserts to the pistons as the old pc Cats used.

[Robyn]

With some custom pistons, I suppose anything is possible.

The 6.2 Pistons are not coated on top.

If you took a set of new Pistons and had the crowns ceramic coated you could really do well.

The piston design on these is not all that high tech.

To do steel inserts would be costly me thinks.

Missy

[joeysworld]

Here's the update: I haven't got there yet!

My 6.2 is currently my only driver at the moment. I'm to worried to change the fuel filter because of my lack of experience!

I felt that I would check in because there are an awful lot of discontinued posts' on forum websites!

I should be able to get brave with it the upcoming week, weather permitting.

[Robyn]

Changing the fuel filter is an easy task.

The 89 Burb should have a mechanical lift pump on the RH front of the engine that feeds the system.

The filter should be a little rectangle box type unit on the firewall on the RH side between the AC box and the engine.

Remove the old filter by unhooking the clamps and then sliding the filter away from the mounting (towards the front of the rig)

Slide the new one one and snap tha latches back in place.

NOW unhook the large pink wire from the injection pump at the top.

Doing this will keep the engine from trying to start while the filter is being purged of air.

Open the air bleed on the top of the filter housing. There is usually a small bleed nipple there too, attach a small hose to the nipple and stick the end of the hose in a coffee can or suitable container.

With the bleeder opened, have a helper crank the engine until air free fuel flow from the bleeder hose.

Once the fuel is flowing freely, close the bleeder vent.

Hook the Pink wire back up and restart the engine like normal.

I prefer to change the filters with a warm engine, as the engine will crank easier and faster when warm.

The engine may miss or stumble a little if there happens to be any small air bubbles still entrained in the new filter, but this will be a short lived thing.

Good luck.

Missy

[joeysworld]

Missy!

Thank you for that excellent write up on fuel filter replacement!

I have one question: How long of a duration should these cranks be to purge air?

[DmaxMaverick]

These are messy when replacing. Reason being, all the tubes that go into the filter, and the holes, are horizontal. To minimize the mess, prior to removing the old filter, place a container below the filter assy, open the water drain valve (with the drain nipple/hose directed into the container), open the top air bleed valve, and blow into the top air bleed hose/tube. It doesn't take much air pressure to drain the filter, which will be about a cup of fuel. This is also good to inspect your fuel condition. If you capture it into a clear container with a lid, cover and set it aside for about an hour. Any sediment contamination and water will settle to the bottom. If it's clear, just dump it back into the tank. Don't forget to close the drain valve before continuing with Robyn's procedure.

Cranking, the fuel and starting systems are healthy, should be about 20-30 seconds, then less than that to get started. Let the starter cool 2-5 minutes between 20-30 seconds cranking.