Getting my new 97 6.5 to start (crank but no fire) [Archive]

Ms54Coupe

12-31-2010, 11:36

Ok I had another thread about my truck before I bought it and I figured I would get a bit more specific with this thread as my goal is now to get this truck started.

I have posted some of the details of the truck but I will recap below and follow up with the things I have tested/replaced so far.

97 6.5 diesel auto
4x4
Turns over but will not start.

The first thing I did when I finally got the truck home was replace both batteries (I figured I would be cranking it over quite a bit and did not want the batteries to be a possible weakness).

I have one fuel injection line off and am getting small amounts of fuel drip when the engine cranks. It is on the driver side as seen here
http://usera.ImageCave.com/N8vr6Gti/IMG_0467.JPG

I used a test light on the 4 driver side glow plugs and all of them lit up the light (this proves the circuit is complete but not necessarily that the plugs are good) this was suggested in my previous thread. I am not sure how to get at the pass side glow plugs with the turbo in the way!

The PMD has been removed from the pump location and is dangling above the intake manifold (this was done by the dealership not me). The suggestions in the previous thread were that if fuel is making it to the injection line then it is NOT the PMD responsible for the no start.
http://usera.ImageCave.com/N8vr6Gti/IMG_0463.JPG

The "Turbo Power" cover has been removed and is in the cab of the truck (also done by the dealership).

I think I can confirm that with the new batteries and the speed of the starter (nice quick rotations when the key is turned) that I am sending enough voltage to the ECM and starter from the 2 new batteries.

The dealership diagnosed the problem as the injection pump but I have 2 issues...1) The truck was at a Ford dealership and 2) there is fuel coming out of the injector line I loosened while the engine is turning over.

Does anyone know what the plug from the harness running behind the engine goes to? It was disconnected when I got the truck.
http://usera.ImageCave.com/N8vr6Gti/IMG_0465.JPG

Ms54Coupe

12-31-2010, 11:44

One thing I noticed ( I am working on this alone so far and cannot watch whats going on while I turn the truck over) is that the frame rail behind the driver side door and in front of the rear driver side wheel seems to have diesel fuel on it...perhaps a bad line and/or a leak?

http://usera.ImageCave.com/N8vr6Gti/IMG_0468.JPG

6.5 Detroit Diesel

12-31-2010, 12:36

just a thought, looking at the pmd, is the ground from the pmd hooked up to the IP? if it isn't, the truck won't start.

and i would check out that fuel line.

DmaxMaverick

12-31-2010, 12:53

That terminal is the glow plug harness. Connect it to the relay (or apply 12V to the terminal for 8-10 seconds, immediately before cranking). If your plugs show a closed circuit (and do, according to your test), odds are they will work. However, they won't work in any case if they aren't hooked up.

If you get fuel at the injectors/lines when you crank it, it should start, or at least try. Unless, of course, your glow plugs are powerless.

Definitely check out that leak.

Do something with that PMD before running it at all. Not even a "test" start. Your transistors are hanging out there with no way to shed heat, and they heat fast (right before burning up). Get it on a heat sink, of some sort. If you are getting fuel during attempted starts, the PMD is working, or at least well enough, to get the engine to fire. If you've been doing a LOT of cranking with no fire, keep in mind, your cylinders are "wet". This means, once it does fire, it will try to burn all that fuel, all at once.

85-m1028

12-31-2010, 13:12

how is it that your power lead for the glowplug harness is disconected and the test light shows good??

Ms54Coupe

12-31-2010, 13:49

how is it that your power lead for the glowplug harness is disconected and the test light shows good??

My test was I hooked the test light to the positive terminal on the battery and then touched the light to the glow plug prong one at a time and each one lit the light. Did I do the test wrong?

Ms54Coupe

12-31-2010, 14:22

So I was looking at the harnesses (I am in the process of removing the intake manifold and have the top half off) Is the glow plug control unit that small black box at the back of the engine mounted to the fire wall towards the driver side valve cover? In the pic of the wire that is not hooked to anything you can see a bolt/nut in the background, is that where the plug goes? I also found that the grey 4 prong plug for that black box was not plugged in either?? I plugged it in and hooked up the round wire to the nut post in the background.

http://usera.ImageCave.com/N8vr6Gti/IMG_0465.JPG

Yukon6.2

01-01-2011, 10:14

Hi
Yes thats the glow relay.You should also try pluging in the block heater when you are trying to start it,You do need to confirm that the glow plugs are actually getting warm.Your truck will not start unless you have glowplugs that work,at least half of them.Pull the ones that are easy on the drivers side hook them back up to the wires and ground them,then try your ignition switch,glow light should come on then go to the engin bay to see if the glows are getting warm,should be a nice orange tip by the time you get from cab to side of fender,
To get to the pass side glow plugs go throgh the wheel well for the back ones,you can remove the little rubber flap on the inner fender and you can get at it then,still a little tight but OK if you watch for sharp edges,If you end up doing much work on the pass side of the engin removing the inner fender makes everything easy to get at.If you do remove inner fender use antiseeze on the bolts and next time you will be able to remove it easyer.
Are you getting any codes?
Good luck
Thomas

rameye

01-01-2011, 13:46

Coupe..

lemme know where you are at...if you're close enough I'll swing by and we can get that sucker fired off!

Drop me a PM

Ms54Coupe

01-01-2011, 16:22

Rameye,

Thanks for the offer! I am in woodstock which is in the north east corner of the state probably a hike from your town but I appreciate the offer! I have the intake manifold removed now so I have some work to do before it is ready for another attempted start.

http://usera.ImageCave.com/N8vr6Gti/IMG_0477.JPG

I now have the intake manifold off the engine and am in the process of replacing the PMD on the injection pump. I got a bullet proof PMD from Stanadyne directly and they want me to mount it to the pump so that is what i'm going to do. If it does not work or burns out I will go back to them directly and have them replace it and then move the PMD to a remote location using the harness. I am operating as a sort of field test for them.

Question:
How can I tell if the fuel shut off solenoid is operating correctly or not? Could the solenoid be responsible for a no start?

Thanks guys

rameye

01-01-2011, 17:19

Coupe,,

If you are getting fuel to the injectors (weeping) its not the fuel stop solenoid.

Too Bad you took off that manifold...pump mounting the PMD is not a good place...I know I know...Stanadyne says its a great place.....bullsh!t !!!

I've been reviewing your posts....

Before you go too crazy replacing parts....pull the glows on the drivers side and hit the ignition to verify they actually glow! Even if the pump/pmd is in the best of health..you have little to no chance of firing that sucker up without a good glow system.

You will only need the drivers glows to be operating to start that sucker...(although it will be partly cloudy for a couple of minutes)

next...take aprt all grounds clean (wirebrush) and re-tighten....remember in a DC system even the positives (batt, starter wire) act as a ground at some point in the circuit.

this thing will most likely start..hang in there..

Oh a tip for you...seeing as you are trying to figure out if the pump is bad on top of all other things..dont replace the intake for a restart...just make sure no debris has or will get sucked in. If the pump truly is DOA (doubtful but possible) you are halfway home with the intake already off.

BTW... In your picture I noticed the PMD ground is off...that will cause a no start condition...no question about it.

PS...

You are about as far geographically as you can get in Ct away from me...100 miles :(

Sounds like lunch when I visit!

Good luck!

Ms54Coupe

01-01-2011, 18:23

Thanks for looking so thoroughly into my post/pics!

The PMD ground was fastened securely to the injection pump when I started working on it...I took it off to replace the harness with the Stanadyne bullet proof PMD/harness combo.

I'll pull the glows tomorrow and check to see if they work or not. In retrospect you are probably right about the intake manifold but I wanted to get access to the pump to hook up the harness and also remove the old PMD that was still on the side of the pump (also check for any loose cables or other failure signs).

The glow plugs have to be grounded like a spark plug when I check them right?

85-m1028

01-01-2011, 19:29

looks like all you need to do is reconnect the glow plug harness to the relay and fire it up!! I test glow plugs with an ohm meter, one lead on the tang and one on the hex part of the glowplug. If you get some resistance "ussualy 1.5 ohms" then it's good.

We really need a sticky somewhere on ohm testing your GP's

DmaxMaverick

01-01-2011, 22:21

This isn't rocket science. Glow plugs aren't as complicated as light bulbs. Test them for continuity (installed or not), and they'll be good. If that isn't enough for you, take them out and apply 12V to them. If they glow in a few seconds (they are called "glow" plugs for a reason), they're good. The odds that one isn't good if it passes either test is so astronomical, it just isn't worth any more effort. The chances of having more than one pass and still not heat, well, I don't know. Never seen or heard of that.

If you insist, create a thread describing the ohm test procedure, and I'll make it a sticky.

JohnC

01-02-2011, 09:59

I agree. If it conducts it is either (a) good or (b) shorted. If it is shorted the wiring burn up or the fusible link will blow.

6.5 Detroit Diesel

01-02-2011, 13:27

BTW... In your picture I noticed the PMD ground is off...that will cause a no start condition...no question about it.

yea, i already asked him about this, but as he didn't respond, i assumed that it was hooked up.

Ms54Coupe

01-03-2011, 06:54

Well I picked up a set of Kennedy glow plugs to eliminate that as a cause of the no start. The plugs in the engine looked pretty old anyway so at least now I won't have to worry about them...I also need to verify that the relay is working and they are getting juice.

KallyI

01-03-2011, 20:14

yea, i already asked him about this, but as he didn't respond, i assumed that it was hooked up.

Thanks for looking so thoroughly into my post/pics!

The PMD ground was fastened securely to the injection pump when I started working on it...I took it off to replace the harness with the Stanadyne bullet proof PMD/harness combo.

I'll pull the glows tomorrow and check to see if they work or not. In retrospect you are probably right about the intake manifold but I wanted to get access to the pump to hook up the harness and also remove the old PMD that was still on the side of the pump (also check for any loose cables or other failure signs).

The glow plugs have to be grounded like a spark plug when I check them right?

Just to keep the record straight, he did respond about that.

Ms54Coupe

01-05-2011, 05:58

The PMD that was hooked up to the truck when I bought it had no resistor in it...would this possibly be responsible for the no start or would the resistor not keep the engine from starting?

DmaxMaverick

01-05-2011, 08:33

The PMD that was hooked up to the truck when I bought it had no resistor in it...would this possibly be responsible for the no start or would the resistor not keep the engine from starting?

No. It will effect the fuel volume programming and set a DTC (code and SES lamp), but will not prevent a start or hinder "normal" driving to any noticeable degree.

Ms54Coupe

01-05-2011, 09:48

Alright thanks!

DmaxMaverick

01-05-2011, 10:25

Still no start? This should be long behind you. These things just aren't that complicated.

Keep it simple:

Verify fuel to the injectors. With as many glow plugs removed as you can get to, have someone crank the engine while you watch the GP holes. If they mist fuel, that's not the problem. If you are able to get fuel to weep from the lines, but not at the injector nozzle, the pump is air-locked and/or not receiving a sufficient fuel supply (or the pump is bad). Loosen all of the injector line nuts and crank until all of them are wet with fuel, tighten, and repeat the cranking with glow plugs removed until you get misting from the holes. Reinstall the plugs and crank after a glow cycle (or two).

Verify glow plug operation. Test the glow plugs for continuity (or just replace them with new). Have someone turn the key to "RUN" (but no cranking), and test a GP connector on each side for voltage while the WTS lamp is on. If you have the WTS lamp and battery voltage to the connectors, your plugs should heat. If you have the WTS lamp, and no voltage to the connectors, your fusible links have fried (they are the fat sections on the GP harness, between the plug connectors and relay, pictured in the #7 post), or they are disconnected. If you are not getting glow plug heat, for any reason, the engine will not start, especially during this time of year.

Heat + Fuel + Air = Running Engine (however ugly it may be).

Ms54Coupe

01-05-2011, 11:13

Thanks buddy!

Right now my intake manifold is still off as I work to get the old PMD off the pump (the bottom bolts are killin me!).

Once the old PMD is off I will re assemble the intake manifold and install my new set of glow plugs and see where I stand at that point. I have had little to no time to work on it or I would be able to give you more updates.

Nate

DmaxMaverick

01-05-2011, 11:30

You don't have to install the intake manifold to start it. Just make sure nothing is near the ports that may get sucked in. With the manifold off, you're more than 1/2 way to a pump replacement, if it comes to that. If the engine fires, and responds to the throttle, then button up the intake and continue.

JohnC

01-05-2011, 12:06

Just make sure nothing is near the ports that may get sucked in.

Better still, get some 1/2" mesh hardware cloth and secure it over the intake ports. Even at idle these engines move a lot of air.

Ms54Coupe

01-06-2011, 08:33

Glow plugs from Kennedy arrived last night WOW they ship fast...Thanks John!

Ms54Coupe

01-08-2011, 12:01

Well I have the inner fender on the pass side off and have replaced 7 of the 8 glow plugs. Found a broken ground wire hanging down behind the engine...looks like it is supposed to be ground with the other large wire to the frame. Could be responsible for some possible issues.

Need a 1/4 inch swivel to use with my 1/4 inch deep well socket and I should be able to replace that last plug which is right behind the down pipe.

Thanks for all your help guys I cannot imagine trying to get to the pass side glow plugs without removing the inner fender!

Ms54Coupe

01-08-2011, 12:02

I still cant believe how hard it is to get the bottom 2 bolts for the pump mounted driver out...I think im going to have to cut down a T15 to be able to get them out.

rameye

01-08-2011, 12:22

I went to auto zone and bought a 15mm wrench...then torched it and bent it up... works just right...bend up the box end...

Then went to sears and saw they make the wrench!....what a dumba$$!

anyway that will expedite things.

DmaxMaverick

01-08-2011, 12:35

DmaxMaverick

01-08-2011, 12:39

I still cant believe how hard it is to get the bottom 2 bolts for the pump mounted driver out...I think im going to have to cut down a T15 to be able to get them out.

Use the torx bit with a box end wrench. If necessary, you can shorten the bit. secure it in box end (epoxy, super glue, silicone, whatever, or tape it in place). When done, you can leave it as is, or knock out the bit and still have a good end wrench.

AllThumbs

01-08-2011, 12:44

Coupe, that #6 glow plug will be easy if you drop the down pipe. If you don't have to do that, let me know, I could see no other way to do it. Could not get a socket in the hole and could not see the glow plug much reattach the wire.

rameye

01-08-2011, 17:02

[QUOTE=DmaxMaverick;277708]He's removing the PMD from the pump.QUOTE]

Head not in game..

Ms54Coupe

01-08-2011, 19:22

Thumbs I might have to drop the pipe but I'm going to try to sneak around it

85-m1028

01-09-2011, 17:14

All that work for a pump a pump that you most likely replace? ask me how I know! make sure that fuel you saw dribbling from the injector line wasn't just residual from the injector lines. Should have a good amount squirting out if the pump is good..

Ms54Coupe

01-10-2011, 06:29

I'm going to see if it will start without the intake manifold on but with the 8 new glow plugs and a new PMD...If it still won't start then you are right I'll just get at the pump while I'm all the way in there already.

Ms54Coupe

01-18-2011, 06:33

Last night I removed the old PMD from the injection pump and strapped in the new Stanadyne bullet proof one. The T15 screw driver bent @ a 90 degree on the end works AMAZING...had the bottom two bolts off in about 15 minutes (can still only turn them a very slight amount at a time).

Now I need to hook up all the connections and finish removing the last glow plug behind the down pipe and replacing it. I will then turn the truck over with no intake manifold to try and find out whether or not the pump works. If it does not then I'll already be ready to remove and replace the pump while I am in there.

Question: how much fuel should be in the fuel filter canister? Can I check to make sure proper fuel delivery from the tank to the pump is occuring?

JohnC

01-18-2011, 10:23

Don't forget the resistor!

The lift pump should deliver a minimum of a quart in 30 seconds and have a deadhead pressure of about 5 psi.

Ms54Coupe

01-18-2011, 11:35

: )

I put in a #8 resistor.

I will need to inspect the lift pump performance. Is it possible to turn over the engine without the cover on the fuel filter housing to verify fuel is being delivered? Is there a better way to check this?

AllThumbs

01-18-2011, 14:50

Get a clear plastic tube and put it on the nipple on the top of the fuel filter housing. You should be pumping fuel in no time if the lift pump is working. Get a can or bottle to catch it. That will also let you judge how clean the fuel is.

If everything else is in place, the truck should start OK with the old glow plug in #6 hole. It would be better with a new one in, but not really necessary for just a test. Before I knew better, mine started with three bad glow plugs in warm weather.

AllThumbs

01-18-2011, 14:52

Forgot to add, give the fuel filter top a half turn before you start the lift pump. Just turn the key and it should start pumping right away. If that works, the injection pump is next. If you have fuel, give her a try and see if it will start.

JohnC

01-18-2011, 15:29

If you have an electric pump and a Stanadyne filter, just run the pump with the water drain open and catch the fuel. Otherwise, well, use your ingenuity. I don't have the specs for the mechanical pump, but if you are using a mechanical injection pump you should have more pressure, 8 or 9 psi, IIRC.

Ms54Coupe

01-19-2011, 06:10

Thanks guys! Please forgive me for some of these questions but I have only owned this truck for a couple weeks and it is my first 6.5.

JohnC: Where is the water drain?

Also, Should the lift pump be pushing fuel when the key is turned to "on" or will the key need to be turned to start and actually be turning the engine over?

Thanks,

Nate

racer55

01-19-2011, 12:14

The water in fuel drain is the tee-valve mounted at the front of the engine near the coolant crossover manifold.

The LP should start for a short while (priming cycle) when the key is turned to run and the glow plug cycle is occuring with your year truck in your sig.

Ms54Coupe

01-26-2011, 07:53

Should I replace the injectors while I have the pass side inner fender off? The truck has 155k miles and I don't really want to take the inner fender back off again and I think I would probably need to in order to do the pass side injectors.

DmaxMaverick

01-26-2011, 08:41

I would. More stuff in the way is a more difficult R/R. With those miles (or if the mileage on the injectors is uncertain), replacement is highly recommended.

ccc

01-27-2011, 19:35

Hey Ms54, I have been following your thread, I have the same motor (I think) if you have a 1997 (S) model. Several years ago, just before I had the motor overhauled, it was not starting well and then was blowing black smoke. It turned out to be a clogged catalytic converter. I took it off and it made a huge difference in the truck. We also found about 1/2 inch of baked on soot in the intake we had to have bead blasted out. I have owned this truck since 2000, I got it cheap because it was smoking so bad. It took a while to figure out that the pressure problems from the converter wasn't letting the turbo spool up as fast as it should have been running. The bad news, if your truck is like mine, it has always been a very hard starter in cold weather. I always just parked it in single digit weather. Yours is a bigger truck so it may have a bigger fuel line but mine has a pretty small line and it just doesn't handle cold diesel well. The best product I have used is FTTP (alcohol I think) Good luck with the truck, I finally got mine started again with those quick start glow plugs from Kennedy but I don't hold out much hope for the really cold weather. Keep us informed and thanks for your help.

Ms54Coupe

01-28-2011, 06:48

Thanks for following along. One of the challenges with this truck is that I purchased it NOT running and from a dealer...lots of un answered questions as you can imagine.

I have been very happy with the help I am receiving from this site. I am confident that I will get this truck running eventually but it may take a little more than I originally anticipated.

I wonder if the reason the tailpipe was not connected when I went to look at the truck was because they were checking the cat for the same reason you experienced?

Nate

Ms54Coupe

02-07-2011, 06:18

Yesterday I spent some more time on it with my friend. I hooked up the new bullet proof PMD and grounded all the grounds to the head with no intake manifold on. I put in the final kennedy quick heat glow plug (the hard one behind the down pipe) and found that the advice to remove the heat shield made things WAY easier. I used a test light to verify that all of the glow plugs are getting power during the cycle and they are.

I then opened the bleeder up top while the key was on and am getting fuel out the hose...I guess my lift pump is functioning.

I gave the glows a good cycle and cranked as soon as the "wait to start" light went out. More cranking with no fire.

I popped one of the injector lines and am getting pretty much no fuel at all at the injector line (banghead)

I guess this leaves me with a pump???

Ms54Coupe

02-07-2011, 06:50

PS...does polarity of the black and red wire which bolt to the back of the injection pump inside of where all the hard injection lines fasten to the pump? I don't know if it matters if Red is on the the upper post and black on the lower or vice versa?

JohnC

02-07-2011, 09:39

I then opened the bleeder up top while the key was on and am getting fuel out the hose...I guess my lift pump is functioning.

Did you bleed the top of the fuel filter?

Ms54Coupe

02-07-2011, 09:42

ya...spun that small piece until fuel was spitting and sputtering out then shut it again and moved to that bleeder hose.

Note though...when I spun it open the fuel was coming out of the threads not that little nipple on the top of the fuel filter housing...does that matter?

rameye

02-09-2011, 05:57

Coupe...

if fuel is spitting and sputtering from the top of the filter ... you still have air in the fuel... this is not good...it will not likely start like that. (considering your no start condition)

you need a flow out of the top of that filter with no air, no sputter..

On the aftermarket filters when you unscrew the top fuel will come form the threads as opposed to the air bleed....wrap the filter body with a rag to collect the inevetible run off.

see my post "sucking wind"

pretty sure my steel fuel feed line is allowing air in the system.

JohnC

02-09-2011, 09:03

The bleeder valve (top of filter) doesn't really work too good. If you unscrew it more than about 1/2 turn the fuel comes out under the bleeder rather than through it.

The valve on the thermostat bleeds the bottom of the filter housing where water collects. It will not bleed the air out.

Ms54Coupe

02-09-2011, 09:30

O ok...

I think I have a leak back near the fuel tank...how hard is it to remove the bed on these trucks? I want to get a good view back there and make sure everything is taken care of starting there.

rameye

02-09-2011, 11:03

dropping the tank might be easier..

If yours is a rusty girl like mine...neither will be all that much fun....

As soon as it gets over freezing ...I'm running a new line to the pump inlet.....

The steel line turns to rubber right where the rear shock tower mounts..you can reach up and grab the line (there are 2 next to one another... one for return)

I'm going to section the rubber hose off the top of the tank and run my new line from there.

Stay with it...Ct is suppose to warm up this weekend!

DmaxMaverick

02-09-2011, 11:25

Removing the bed is easy. Much easier than dropping the tank.......

Remove the tailgate (less weight, and it gets in the way). Remove the taillight assy's. Free the electrical wires. Disconnect the fill pipe. Remove the bed nuts/bolts. If you have a hoist, either an overhead or a cherry picker type, use chain or straps attached at each corner. Cover the cab/rear glass with a blanket, or a large sheet of plywood/cardboard behind the cab, covering it as high as possible (prevents accidental contact damage). Lift straight up. Roll chassis out from under the bed, or wheel the bed away. If lifting by hand, 4 men can do it easily (lift and walk it back and away). The bed isn't that heavy, but is awkward if removing by hand/man power.

While the bed is off, it's the best time to repair any corrosion to the cross-braces, bolt holes, and anything else you can't otherwise access. If there's any indication of corrosion on the bed bolts/nuts, replace them.

Dropping the tank is twice the work, and takes twice as long. Often, you can damage lines/wires, or destroy the sender if it snags. The tank should be empty (or nearly), but you can do it with one or two men. A tranny jack helps. Getting it back in isn't nearly as much fun. The straps and friction pads rarely help you line them up (tape them together if there's no adhesive, or just replace them with new), and the bed sides and frame get in the way, constantly. Even if I'm only replacing the tank, I will still remove the bed. It's just so much easier, in the end.

Ms54Coupe

02-10-2011, 08:37

Thanks...I plan to remove the bed this weekend to see what is going on with the fuel leak...I want to lube the frame anyway and probably hit all the spring hangers and shock mounts etc.

Ms54Coupe

03-10-2011, 06:20

Everything is ready for the pump to come out except the bolts inside the oil filler...I need to turn over the engine to get to them.

I have a question about the fuel shut off solenoid...How do I send power to it to check it? I removed the solonoid from the pump and set it on bare metal to ground the body...not sure if it needs that or not but I did to check it.

I put a wire from the negative battery to one prong on the solenoid and a wire from the positive battery to the other prong...the solenoid did not do anything. Am I testing it correctly?

I am so close and deep into the project that I am going to have the pump rebuilt either way but I fear that CC may have been right and the shut off solenoid may be the culprit.

Ms54Coupe

08-02-2011, 08:33

I think it was the shut off solenoid mounted on the outside of the injection pump all along...Maybe this item has a different name but I don't think any fuel was getting to my injectors and I think the fuel that did drip out was residual from the line rather than being pushed by the pump.

I received my pump back from Stanadyne where I had sent it to have it bench tested...test results confirm that it is performing to all factory levels but I believe the solenoid mounted to the pump was replaced and I think it was bad!

I now have the pump back and will replace the water pump then re assemble the engine and try to get the old girl fired back up...this truck has not run since I have owned it (got it this past winter) and in the meantime I moved but I'm finally in position to get back after it.

rameye

08-04-2011, 05:20

didnt we talk about that pesky solenoid eons ago????

anyway been a way for a while...happy to see you are close to getting it fire up.

still a good deal?

Ms54Coupe

08-08-2011, 06:20

We did talk about it and I wish I had not started taking the engine apart and removing the pump by the time it was mentioned because I could have dropped a new one in and tested it before taking everything apart. Now I will be dropping my pump back in with bullet proof pmd and new solenoid combined with my new quick heat glow plugs and 2 new batteries. If it does not start after that then the answer is NO IT WAS NOT A GOOD DEAL :)

I'm hoping to report a start up though.