Squirt blocks and ballance issues

[Robyn]

Sitting here thinking about the many issues that we have seen with the 6.5 after the squirters came into being.

Now just to spark some thought.

How much oil is flying around inside one of these engines with the squirters. A BUTT LOAD me thinks.

Is this oil evenly distributed? probably not to say the least.

How much does this extra oil in suspention, that gathers in the pistons and such weigh ??? hard to say but its bound to add up.

Could this suspended oil cause a dynamic imballance if it becomes spotty, in that some pistons could have more than others collecting in them at certain times.

Sure, Ma gravity is supposed to pull the oil back the to the pan but, the crank is thrashing about in there flinging that stuff all over and with 8 little nozzles squirting oil like crazy, what if anything is this doing to the internal ballance of the engine ????????????


I would love to hear any theories you guys may have on this.

A much slower engine thats built heavy (like the class 8 stuff) could brush this off without a care but, could this wonder cure for the percieved heat issue in the piston crowns be a contributing factor to crank and block failures.

Oil has mass/weight and weight in the wrong places at the wrong times causes/can cause issues.


Just to stir the pot a tad and bring forth some thoughts :D

Missy pot stirrer

[suburbanK-2500HD]

Just out of curiosity, when did these engines come out. Witch years.

Thanks

[85-m1028]

In that case all the more reason to keep the oil clean and prevent deposits from building up. Increase in surface area could grab oil and quickly become problematic. I guess some used piston inspections would be in order.

[suburbanK-2500HD]

In that case all the more reason to keep the oil clean and prevent deposits from building up. Increase in surface area could grab oil and quickly become problematic. I guess some used piston inspections would be in order.

Totally agre with that.
Some say i am crazy changing oil as often as i do, throwing money away they say.
I say, i dont mind changing oil every 5000 km. its not that big cost compared to a engine rebuild..

[AllThumbs]

I'm having trouble getting my head around this. Oil in the crankcase would equal about 12 pounds (actually less, using water just to make it easy). Another quart in the filter which would be out of the equation for this mental exercise. The six quarts are spread all over the engine and I'm not sure how much different it would be having squirters or not. When squirters were introduced in 1996?, where did the cracks show up? How would or where would imbalance caused by oil show up and what kind of cracks would form? Heads? Main webs? Cylinder walls? Where were they. They did show immediately because GM had a terrible time with it right when the motors went on the market. How were the early squirters different than the pre-squirter engines in terms of cracking, crank failure or any other breakdown?

[Robyn]

My theory is that varying amounts on things like pistons and such could change the internal ballance.

The early squirter blocks used a larger hole in the main web for the nozzles.

The early blocks had the 12mm outer bolts instead of the later 10MM

The cracks in these early squirt blocks were right through the squairt holes and then up the main webs and on into the cylinder walls.

Varying theories exist as to why all this has happened but to date there has been absolutely no "THIS IS IT" statement bt anyone.

The block may be made from ther wrong alloy of iron, possibly due to stresses, possibly green castings that are still curing after the engine is running.

It seems that if you have a casting with many many miles on the clock without cracks, they seem to live forever.

Missy

[AllThumbs]

I'm very interested in this because my engine is a 1996, which is the year they came out, and it is still running very well at 239,000. Is this a live forever block then?

Your commentary would indicate that it might not be the squirters at all that are causing the problem. How do I find out when my block was made and whether or not it is a squirter? That could have a lot of bearing on where I go with my antifreeze leak.

[THEFERMANATOR]

I'm very interested in this because my engine is a 1996, which is the year they came out, and it is still running very well at 239,000. Is this a live forever block then?

Your commentary would indicate that it might not be the squirters at all that are causing the problem. How do I find out when my block was made and whether or not it is a squirter? That could have a lot of bearing on where I go with my antifreeze leak.

Squirter blocks came out in 97 in the 506 block. Early 97's still had 96 141 blocks which are not squirter blocks.

[Robyn]

casting number end in 599, 929, 141, 506 the Juien date will tell when it was made.

As mentioned, the 97 model year was the changeover point.


Missy

[THEFERMANATOR]

casting number end in 599, 929, 141, 506 the Juien date will tell when it was made.

As mentioned, the 97 model year was the changeover point.


Missy

From what I found when looking at different ones, it seemed that the 506 blocks started being put in 12/96. SO many 97's actually got the 141 96 casting block. This is why many say that 98 was the worst year for cracks as it was the first full year of the early 506 blocks being put into production vehicles. An easy way to tell is if it has the factory engine with 1/2" oil cooler lines it is a 141 block as the 5-6 squirt block got the larger 5/8" lines for the oil cooler.