Mark Rinker
10-06-2010, 06:07
Wow. Just when you thought it couldn't get any more crowded near the fuel filter - it did with the 2009 LMM.
Filter changes on my trucks happen every 10K with oil changes, or when one freezes in the winter or plugs for some unknown reason. Luckily, the 10K intervals seem to do the trick, and we haven't had too much trouble the last couple winters, since Minnesota started blending mandatory bio-diesel into their winter blend. For awhile there, we were freezing filters regularly on Bobcats and plow trucks below -15F.
So changing a filter when you have all your conveniences of shop or garage is one thing, changing the filter by the side of the road or in a rest area pulloff is another. Practice and a method that you KNOW works is everything, and my first 2009 experience was best done in the driveway as it took me nearly 30 minutes to complete.
#1) There is an air conditioner line that blocks hand access to the filter. I am a fan of reaching in over the fender and spinning the filter on and off, so I carefully 're-positioned' the line by gently bending it in three or four places. It is now over the primer, not over the open space.
#2) There is a wire loom with plastic connector at the battery tray, also directly in the way of hand access. I pulled the connector, and repositioned the loom next to the battery on the tray, rather than beside it.
#3) This was also a good time to unfasten and route the block heater cord...winter is coming. I see GM saved $.50 by making the cord six inches shorter than it used to be...had to fiddle with its routing past the coolant overflow hoses and air filter housing, stretching the loom its fastened to slightly in order to get the male plug to just reach the hood corner, when closed. Up here, most of us have the cord end positioned outside the hood during the winter, for ease of plugging/unplugging, without opening the hood. However, no flopping around and scratched paint is allowed, thats just sloppy. Also, if its tight and secure where it protrudes, and you back away from the garage with cord still plugged in, it just unplugs itself...!!! ;)
Even with these mods, the space for hand access to the filter is still VERY limited. I was able to get the filter off with little trouble by hand, but positioning the new filter for installation from the top was impossible. I ended up on the ground under the truck, weaving the new filter (with WIF installed) over the exhaust and up to a 'staging point' where I could then come over the fender, pick it up, and complete the installation.
The only reason this is possible is the truck is still very clean, and I am in the driveway on a nice sunny afternoon. Dirty truck and roadside would be unacceptable - the likelihood of crud getting on the new clean filter almost a given.
Remember upon removal to always check the old filter for both the large 'O' ring, and the center rubber coupler. If either stays on the filter head, it can be hard to see them, and very frustrating until discovered.
Also remember that the rotation of the filter onto the filter head is counter-clockwise when viewed from the top. If you have long arms, it would be possible to screw the filter on from the bottom with your arm over the exhaust - but that only works if you are doing this with a cold truck in your driveway, and its a nearly blind maneuver.
Many of you are probably wondering WHY I didn't take the more obvious route of removing the fender liner. My thoughts:
#1) Its not a quick roadside change method. I want whatever method I use to be possible in an emergency,cold temps, and in 5 minutes or less.
#2) In my case, it now requires removal of mudflap screws that are nicely secured and bolted in place, and don't want to end up with loose flaps after multiple removals...same actually for all the fastners that hold the inner in place.
After all of this, my conclusion is the days of installing fuel filters over the fender of my 2009 LMM are over. Just not enough room left for the 'hand method' especially since you can't get the new, clean filter positioned from the top.
...
FUTURE IDEA, BEFORE NEXT FILTER CHANGE INTERVAL AND WINTER COMES !!!
Cut an 8" x 8" access door cut into the plastic fender liner, with a hinge on the right (door opens away from filter, allowing better view/access) of some sort. Wondering if the plastic liner will be flexible enough in winter to simply cut three sides (left, top, bottom) and bend it open from left to right, using the plastic itself as the hinge?
There is a large square area directly above the wheel and slightly forward of the filter location that already looks like a door to me, molded into the inner fender. More investigation needed before cutting...want to get it right the first time...hole needs to be big enough for a filter with the large "O" ring pre-installed...and my fat aging hands.
HMMMM...:D More soon on this one!
Filter changes on my trucks happen every 10K with oil changes, or when one freezes in the winter or plugs for some unknown reason. Luckily, the 10K intervals seem to do the trick, and we haven't had too much trouble the last couple winters, since Minnesota started blending mandatory bio-diesel into their winter blend. For awhile there, we were freezing filters regularly on Bobcats and plow trucks below -15F.
So changing a filter when you have all your conveniences of shop or garage is one thing, changing the filter by the side of the road or in a rest area pulloff is another. Practice and a method that you KNOW works is everything, and my first 2009 experience was best done in the driveway as it took me nearly 30 minutes to complete.
#1) There is an air conditioner line that blocks hand access to the filter. I am a fan of reaching in over the fender and spinning the filter on and off, so I carefully 're-positioned' the line by gently bending it in three or four places. It is now over the primer, not over the open space.
#2) There is a wire loom with plastic connector at the battery tray, also directly in the way of hand access. I pulled the connector, and repositioned the loom next to the battery on the tray, rather than beside it.
#3) This was also a good time to unfasten and route the block heater cord...winter is coming. I see GM saved $.50 by making the cord six inches shorter than it used to be...had to fiddle with its routing past the coolant overflow hoses and air filter housing, stretching the loom its fastened to slightly in order to get the male plug to just reach the hood corner, when closed. Up here, most of us have the cord end positioned outside the hood during the winter, for ease of plugging/unplugging, without opening the hood. However, no flopping around and scratched paint is allowed, thats just sloppy. Also, if its tight and secure where it protrudes, and you back away from the garage with cord still plugged in, it just unplugs itself...!!! ;)
Even with these mods, the space for hand access to the filter is still VERY limited. I was able to get the filter off with little trouble by hand, but positioning the new filter for installation from the top was impossible. I ended up on the ground under the truck, weaving the new filter (with WIF installed) over the exhaust and up to a 'staging point' where I could then come over the fender, pick it up, and complete the installation.
The only reason this is possible is the truck is still very clean, and I am in the driveway on a nice sunny afternoon. Dirty truck and roadside would be unacceptable - the likelihood of crud getting on the new clean filter almost a given.
Remember upon removal to always check the old filter for both the large 'O' ring, and the center rubber coupler. If either stays on the filter head, it can be hard to see them, and very frustrating until discovered.
Also remember that the rotation of the filter onto the filter head is counter-clockwise when viewed from the top. If you have long arms, it would be possible to screw the filter on from the bottom with your arm over the exhaust - but that only works if you are doing this with a cold truck in your driveway, and its a nearly blind maneuver.
Many of you are probably wondering WHY I didn't take the more obvious route of removing the fender liner. My thoughts:
#1) Its not a quick roadside change method. I want whatever method I use to be possible in an emergency,cold temps, and in 5 minutes or less.
#2) In my case, it now requires removal of mudflap screws that are nicely secured and bolted in place, and don't want to end up with loose flaps after multiple removals...same actually for all the fastners that hold the inner in place.
After all of this, my conclusion is the days of installing fuel filters over the fender of my 2009 LMM are over. Just not enough room left for the 'hand method' especially since you can't get the new, clean filter positioned from the top.
...
FUTURE IDEA, BEFORE NEXT FILTER CHANGE INTERVAL AND WINTER COMES !!!
Cut an 8" x 8" access door cut into the plastic fender liner, with a hinge on the right (door opens away from filter, allowing better view/access) of some sort. Wondering if the plastic liner will be flexible enough in winter to simply cut three sides (left, top, bottom) and bend it open from left to right, using the plastic itself as the hinge?
There is a large square area directly above the wheel and slightly forward of the filter location that already looks like a door to me, molded into the inner fender. More investigation needed before cutting...want to get it right the first time...hole needs to be big enough for a filter with the large "O" ring pre-installed...and my fat aging hands.
HMMMM...:D More soon on this one!