2009 towing: OEM hitch and brake controller?

[Mark Rinker]

Looking for some feedback from anyone that has done significant amounts of towing with a 2009. Specifically:


How has OEM ClassV hitch held up?
Are you satisified with the performance of the OEM brake controller - I have become very familiar with how the Teckonsha Prodigy, and am wondering if anyone else has decided which to use.
Regen/DPF experiences while towing - any problems/comments/etc?
Any input appreciated!

[drcook]

There were issues with the OEM hitch, but they have supposedly been fixed. I have seen posts alluding to 2010 models having the improved hitch, but have not seen anything official.

I have read numerous posts about GM oem hitch failures on the RV sites. Doing so caused me to become concerned so I replaced the hitch on our 2004.5 with a heavy duty Reese hitch, that is way more substantial and is rated to pull 15,000 lbs when using a load leveling hitch.

I brought the old oem one home and carefully inspected it. There was a small crack in one of the welds, and all the welds were being exposed to water etc from the opposite side, and it looked as if the rails were springing.

We only pulled a travel trailer that weighed a little over 5100 lbs dry weight with a load leveling hitch. This is a standard TT, not a toy hauler, which has significant more tongue weight.

The hitch distributor did have a broken oem hitch that they used for visual impact purposes, and I imagine that the person that broke it probably had something heavier on it than our trailer. But if our trailer / hitch combination can crack a weld, then it would REALLY BEHOOVE you to very very carefully inspect that hitch as well as any one else pulling with the round oem GM hitch.

After learning what I did, and seeing what I did, I simply recommend that if it at all looks suspect to pull it off and scrap it and put on a good Reese hitch. It is only $300.00'ish for a decent hitch. Pretty cheap insurance.

[christophersond]

I haven't used the Class V Hitch much for towing, so I can't attest to its' durability. I do frequently tow a 12K 5th wheel, and the brake controller has worked flawlessly. You set the trailer gain according to the load and road conditions. A DIC message will let you know the setting and when the trailer is hooked up (electrically). It will also let you know if a problem in the electrical circuit occurs. The rear back-up assist automatically turns on and off as you connect and disconnect from a trailer (a DIC message will appear). If most of your driving is above 30 MPH, you would not realize when a DPF regeneration is occurring as there is absolutely no difference in the performance of the truck. :)

[Mark Rinker]

There were issues with the OEM hitch, but they have supposedly been fixed. I have seen posts alluding to 2010 models having the improved hitch, but have not seen anything official.

I have read numerous posts about GM oem hitch failures on the RV sites. Doing so caused me to become concerned so I replaced the hitch on our 2004.5 with a heavy duty Reese hitch, that is way more substantial and is rated to pull 15,000 lbs when using a load leveling hitch.

I brought the old oem one home and carefully inspected it. There was a small crack in one of the welds, and all the welds were being exposed to water etc from the opposite side, and it looked as if the rails were springing.

We only pulled a travel trailer that weighed a little over 5100 lbs dry weight with a load leveling hitch. This is a standard TT, not a toy hauler, which has significant more tongue weight.

The hitch distributor did have a broken oem hitch that they used for visual impact purposes, and I imagine that the person that broke it probably had something heavier on it than our trailer. But if our trailer / hitch combination can crack a weld, then it would REALLY BEHOOVE you to very very carefully inspect that hitch as well as any one else pulling with the round oem GM hitch.

After learning what I did, and seeing what I did, I simply recommend that if it at all looks suspect to pull it off and scrap it and put on a good Reese hitch. It is only $300.00'ish for a decent hitch. Pretty cheap insurance.


So, you are saying that towing 15K# of boat through the mountains from MT to BC Canada might not be a good idea? :D


Agree, the construction of the OEM 'ClassV' doesn't compare to the Reese or others I have seen. It will get upgraded, but probably after I have some fun stress testing the OEM peice...

[Mark Rinker]

I haven't used the Class V Hitch much for towing, so I can't attest to its' durability. I do frequently tow a 12K 5th wheel, and the brake controller has worked flawlessly. You set the trailer gain according to the load and road conditions. A DIC message will let you know the setting and when the trailer is hooked up (electrically). It will also let you know if a problem in the electrical circuit occurs. The rear back-up assist automatically turns on and off as you connect and disconnect from a trailer (a DIC message will appear). If most of your driving is above 30 MPH, you would not realize when a DPF regeneration is occurring as there is absolutely no difference in the performance of the truck. :)

Agreed. The controller seems to work well. Placement isn't my favorite, I have had my Teckonshas under the dash to the right for many years, that is where I reach when an adjustment or EXTRA brakes are required...old dog, new trick thing...

[drcook]

quote "So, you are saying that towing 15K# of boat through the mountains from MT to BC Canada might not be a good idea?


Agree, the construction of the OEM 'ClassV' doesn't compare to the Reese or others I have seen. It will get upgraded, but probably after I have some fun stress testing the OEM peice..." unquote


if you saw the one that I saw, you wouldn't want to stress yours too much. The round tubing was twisted and ripped, so because the OEM ones are attached to the bumper (uses the bumper as a stress component) the bumper was bent.

I imagine part of your post is in humor, just be careful, I read too many bad stories about these hitches. and once I had mine out and saw it, I am sure glad I replaced ours.

dave

[rat4go]

Mark,

I've got a prodigy in my personal truck and have towed with company trucks with the OEM controller...towing everything from 4k to 14k trailers. I used to love my prodigy. Now, I only LIKE my prodigy and I LOVE the OEM controller. Old style delay controllers are now even more in the junk catagory in my book. Not ready to buy a new truck and take on payments to get the OEM unit, but I sure do like the controller!

Maybe you've now got enough exposure to the OEM to form your own opinion, but I figured I'd weigh in.

[cowboywildbill]

I think our 2011 has the same OEM controller that the previous years had. I like it it works very well. Seems to have more juice going back to the trailer brakes than my Jordan brake did.

[carco]

Guess I should look Closely @ my 04.5 stock hitch,,,,,,, used it to hook 5 pulling sleds to last 2 summers still straight!! Placed 5, 3, 8, 3, and 25 of 32 beat all the fords!

[Runaway_Dmax]

drcook - what year truck do you have? Your signature is scarce.

Mark - I had the "03" and put 112K on her pulling 5vers, boats, and assorted different trailers - would have been the same as yoru previous trucks. Never had an issue with the receiver hitch.

The "08" has 50K on it right now. The only thing I don't like about the receiver hitch is the reducer from 2.5" - 2". It seems to be wearing in the holes of the reducer. A person can get the hitches in 2.5". GM went to this style of Receiver Hitch in 2007 when the new body styles came out.

OEM Brake controller is flawless. I had the Tekonsha and now have it as a spare just in case, but wouldn't intentionally put it in to replace the OEM. It just doesn't compare.

Regens - Don't even know they are happening unless you have something to tell you like an Edge Insight. In my towing experiences I haven't seen a difference in fuel economy when towing either, actually maybe alittle better than the "03.

[drcook]

I have a 2004.5 Crewcab Shortbox 4x4 LLY

I have no vested interest in talking about the oem hitches other than relaying what I had read on the RV sites, talking about the trashed one laying on the floor over at the hitch shop and telling folks about the junk one that is laying outside my garage with a cracked weld waiting to go the the recycle place once we have a little more metal to make it a worthwhile trip.

I am sure that there are 10's of thousands (actually that is a low nbr) out there that won't have any issues in the entire life of the truck. I just wouldn't want it to be mine that did when I had my family in the truck, my dogs with us and our trailer behind.

The oem hitch I have also experienced wear in the pin holes. I recieved quite a bit of an education after I brought it home and actually took a good look at it.

I did have the hitch shop (whose primary business is welding) cut the oem trailer plug plate off and weld it to a piece of steel bar stock. I had them drill holes and bolt the bar stock up to the tapped holes in the bumper and have a pretty solid setup. Most aftermarket ones are simply thin straps.

dc