DTC 13 - Engine Shutoff Solenoid Circuit Fault

[markrinker]

Anyone had this? I have a no-fuel, no-start situation and assume this means a new fuel shutoff solenoid is needed.

Is this a 'shadetree serviceable' part? If so, does it come from GM Parts counter or from a Stanadyne service center?

UPDATE #1 - Truck did fire and run for about 45 seconds, then stalled immediately, as if the key were turned off. This is on pump mounted FSD, but after many cycles of good glow and fast cranking without even a hint of fuel or combustion.

UPDATE #2 - Tried spare FSD. Still no start.

[ 01-05-2005, 12:03 PM: Message edited by: Mark Rinker ]

[Govt issue]

I think it is 1 bolt threw the middle. no problem. anybody else got a take on it.

[BUZZ]

I am going thru this now. I did disconnect the shut off sol. and ran 12v from the batt and got it running, and no more shut downs. Stanydyne rebuid centers stock this part, about 85.00. I have not bought one yet as I am checking the 12v supply and PCM supplied ground that activates this valve. If you do plan to replace I would clean the entire top of engine with air or water, allow to dry if wet. I then would maybe use brake clean or carb clean or contact clean and spray that area well. You need to be very clean. Make your swap and you should be good to go.
Disclaimer, I have never done this, but I am going too and have read posts of others that did.
Buzz

[markrinker]

Buzz - Thanks for your input. Some questions:

1) Where does the two wire connector terminate? Somewhere elsewhere on the IP, at the FSD?

2) Could this simply be a bad ground at the FSD or elsewhere?

3) I have an old green tag IP that came off a working engine. The fuel shutoff solenoid has a hex head opening - not a bolt. The 'bad' one that I am planning to replace uses a bolt as you described. Will these two interchange?

[ 01-05-2005, 02:19 PM: Message edited by: Mark Rinker ]

[BUZZ]

Mark,
The sol. gets 12+ from the ignition ckt, via a 15 pin connector at rear of eng. Same 15 pin the PMD wire run thru I believe. I'll look at tech book and verify.
The 12v - comes from the ECM via the same 15 pin conn. The 12v + is always present when the key is on, as the PCM supplies ground when necessary. Now between the 15 pin engine conn. and the sol. valve is a 2 pin conn down in the intake valley and beside the IP.
You should do a res. check on the ground side going back to the PCM with the KEY ON. I would determine which of the two contol wires is 12+ then the other should be ground.
Good Luck
Buzz
PS When you call to get a sol. valve, should you need one, you need the 4 # code that describes your pump.
For what it is worth, I had a green tag pump that went 115,000 miles, started to go dead, got a freebe from GM and has been a pain since. I am still not certain the there was anything wrong with the pump. It set the right codes but a PMD or maybe this sol. valve may has fixed it.
Will never know, but this pump is on my dime and I will am going to try several things before I drop a grand. The Navy taught me how to trouble shoot and that I am going to do.
z

[tom.mcinerney]

Mark , and Buzz-
These solenoids apparently do occassionally fail, and have been field-replaced.
My understanding is all 12V pwr on '94 feeds via the pos batt lead to the starter, connections there critical. And not sure if a relay feeds the FuelShuttoffSolenoid, or if it runs direct from ignition switch, possibly with diode in line(?).
On '95 ignition switch seems to feed LP, FSD, and FSS , among others...might check drop over switch to shuttoff solenoid; or renew switch too.

[markrinker]

Odd that there is a rash of these right now. Maybe co-inky-dink but maybe due to the colder weather?

Thanks for all the help. Its too cold (and dark) right now to attempt a repair where the truck now sits outside.

Is it correct to say that the fuel shutoff is normally closed (off) and only open (on) when there is 12V present? I am suprised they don't burn out more if that is the case, with no relay or anything.

Also - which is newer, a green or blue tag pump? I have both (my spare is green) and the tops of the solenoids are different. Sounds like they won't interchange...

[Kennedy]

The ESO solenoid USED to be one of the more reliable parts on the DS4. They typically worked, or worked and leaked, but seldom failed. There was an update a bit back changing from the internal hex to an external hex bolt. The newer external hex bolt units seem more prone to mechanical failure. I have a truck coming in that this (among other things)is suspect due to cold stalling...

[BUZZ]

JK thanks for the input. My newer pump has the bolt head type ECO sol. I leaned toward mine when I heard it clicking open and closed while cranking. When it stopped clicking it word fire. This leads me to a 12 volt source ie ign sw, or a ground issue from PCM. I have not had the time to trouble shoot, yet maybe this weekend.
Buzz

[More Power]

The 1998 manual indicates that the ESO gets power through the ECM-1 fuse found in the underhood Fuse-Relay center. That 12V circuit (pink wire color)is shared by the FSD. The ground path for the ESO is through the PCM.

MP

[markrinker]

It turned out to be the fuse. It wasn't blown, but was loose in its sockets and semi-melted into the box.

(This is not the first fuse to do this - the whole fuse box is in need of replacement, according to my mechanic.)

Thanks for all the help!

[JohnC]

Originally posted by Mark Rinker:
It turned out to be the fuse. It wasn't blown, but was loose in its sockets and semi-melted into the box.
Loose fuses cause resistance. Resistance causes heat. Heat causes loose fuses...

[markrinker]

Exactly.

I have had more than one mechanic comment that this truck was 'definately under water' at some point...

Funny, its actually been the better (mechanically speaking) of the two I've owned!!!