Block Deck Prep

[More Power]

A member sent this photo to me a few years back, showing how he tried to keep debris from falling into the clean side of the engine while he prepared the deck for a new head gasket.

http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/photopost/data/500/deckprep.jpg

I would add that chunks of foam rubber can also be used to stuff into the coolant passages to keep junk out of the cooling system.

Anyone have any other ideas?

Jim

[Robyn]

That is a great PIC.

The job of cleaning the deck off is a nasty one no matter who it is and what you are using.

I usually dont worry too much about the bores but the lifter case is to me the most important.

After I am done, I wipe the bores with a slightly oiled rag and then move the pistons slightly to uncover any crap and then wipe again. Just roll the engine and the rings will push any junk to the top, back the crank up and tend to any "CLINGONS"

My prefered way to clean off the deck is the 9" Makita disc grinder with a large cup brush on it.

Held pretty much flat, the deck will be clean in a jiffy.

The water jacket is areal PITA to keep stuff out of as it is usually still full of coolant unless the water pump has been removed to allow the coolant level to fall off some.

The big cup brush works well on many of the places that need old gasket and such removed.

You can also "float" the cup brush over the head surface too.

A quicky wipe down afterwards with a rag dampened in BrakeKleen will remove all the oil film and make the surface ready to accept the new gaskets.

I like to run a hard backed razor blade over the entire surface as a final check to be really sure that the decks/heads are clear of debris.

These surfaces CAN'T be TOO CLEAN.

One little spot of crap in the path of the fire ring will doom the installation to failure.

Missy

[bobbywalter]

generally i use foam from old couch cushion in the jackets ect and what robyn does with the bores.


would never use a 9 in grinder and 6 or bigger cup brush though...(i am probably too lazy)

i use rolocs...the critters with the rubber finger dealios, or brass wire wheels in my die grinder.

[Robyn]

:D If you are doing the heads in the rig, the 9" is not the ticket.

If that big cup brush gets ahold of some wires or other goodies, their TOAST

Myself I will not do heads on these engines in the truck.

Im not into the "over the fender" stuff any more.
Lumping those heavy heads out and up off the block is just too much for this old gal.

I prefer to have the complete engine out on the stand where I can get at it, up close and intimate. :D

Usually, with a high mile 6.5, I am going to dive into the rest of the beast as well.

Other things such as checking the main webs, replacing the bearings and such.

Definately going to do the soft plugs while the thing is out.

Everyone has a procedure that seems to make them happy or at least one that is in their COMFORT zone.

If I had to do one in the engine bay, I would probably scale the cup brush back to a 3 to 4 inch size on the Mini Makita.

I like the idea of the foam. I usually use either rags or paper shop towels.

Definately going to try the foam.

Another good practice is to use a 2 inch wide 18 inch long body sanding board with some 100 grit paper to glide over the surface after all the crud has been removed.

This will do a nice job of finishing and brightening the surface up.

Great ideas are coming along here.

Lets here some more of these.

Missy

[bobbywalter]

yeah.....i seen your dooly woes thread...
:(

these things in their oem Cadillac homes arent maintainence friendly


but, not meaning to rub it in, my rig is about a 3-5 hr deal to swap an engine...:D of course my rig isnt a cadillac either. no ac...no cruise...still no turbo system, i have a turbo just have not put it on yet. the wind blows through it like an old abandoned barn....kinda like riding in a topless jeep at times:D


doing heads in chassis is cake too.

take longer to properly drain the fluids then any other specific operation as far as the removal process is concerned.:p

the current k member is purposely constructed to be able to put bearings in on the road if such a repair was viable to limp er in to the shop.

sometimes i am thousands of miles from home regularly.


been getting away with no turbo...have spare engines now. so its just a matter of time...

thing is, i may use them spare engines all up in short order with the turbo install..
really makes me wonder if a turbo is a bad idea...but uhhhh na sucks when you need to pass something.


anyways the point i was attempting to make is depending on ones needs elimination of some unnecessary stuff under the hoods and modifications to fenderwells of work rigs can greatly simplify basic maintenance....actually promoting maintenance.

[More Power]

There is quite a debate about whether using power tools to strip the old gasket material from the head/block surfaces is a good idea. One camp likes to use a power wheel (like ScotchBrite) to cut the stuff. Others (myself included) say a Scotch wheel throws too much abrasive everywhere, including inside the engine, and that a power tool can more easily cut into the metal surfaces. Patient and careful use of hand tools, like a sanding block, can help control the amount of abrasive material finding its way into the engine and reduce the possibility of removing metal.

GM insists that power tools not be used when prepping the Duramax's aluminum heads.

Jim

[Yukon6.2]

Hi
Back in the day's that we had Highway trafic to warrent having staff at our garage we used to change quite a few engins.The supplier ofthe rebuilt engins sent a bulletin that said if there was any evidence of use of a scothbrite wheels on the engin assembly the warrenty would be void.I ate the price of one engin because my mechanic loved them.After that i hid the box of wheels,still have 1/2 a box of them.Now i use only hand tools,scraper,razor blades brake clean,and mabey some emory cloth.Might take a little longer but no worries.
Thomas

[Robyn]

Alloy is a horse of a different color.

Floating a deck or head of cast iron will do no harm (using a large wire wheel)

The scotch bright if allowed to dig in can do some damage.

I never use the edge of the wire wheel and always a very light pressure.

For sure, aluminum is far easier to damage than the iron.


Missy

[racer55]

No matter the tool used,for any operation the deciding factor is the skill of the operator.

I like the scotchbrite pads a lot for cast iron but like I said its the operators responsability to control whats removed.
If used carefully you can do some aluminum cleaning as well.

There are cases where the best tool will always be a hand tool and others where a power tool is perfect,in the wrong hands both can be a disaster.

[Robyn]

Well said, indeed.

All about understanding what needs to be done and having the "feel" for the use of the tool being used.

Never ever had any issues with the cup brush but, Missy here has a delicate touch even with the big cup on the 9 incher.

I will not use power brushes on pistons to clean ring grooves and such.
Just hard nasty hand work.

I know shops that use the bead blaster to clean pistons.

I dont like doing it that way.

I will not use hard tools on the coated tops of 6.5 pistons either.

A use a water blast that will cut off the worst of the crap and then use a mild abrasive cleaner in a plastic scrubber to get rid of the rest of the crud.

Wash them gently in the dish washer. :eek: Naw, just kidding :D




Missy