What brand of oil are you using?

[Big Red Suburban]

Just curious what brand and type of oil everyone is using....

I'm about to do my first oil change on this beast!

[Johnny B.]

Shell Rotella 15w 40

[ucdavis]

Delo 400.
I started out using synthetic & tried two different brands. Was always down over a quart+ in 3000 miles. There was another thread on this about 6-8 months ago and three things seemed to come out of it:
1) synthetic users reported leaks &/or oil use; one poster said his leaks started after switch to syn & stopped after going back. I had regular leaking w/syn on a ford I still have; now has new long block & I'm using Delo 400; no leaks so far but its fairly new.
2) Delo 400 users didn't seem to suffer any longevity decrease vs. syn, or greater breakdown freq. Plenty of hi-mile rigs using Delo or equivalent non-syn.
3) Changing oil @ ~3k w/Redline was ~$80 for oil w/tax, vs. about $12 for Delo or equal. Since you need to change for soot removal w/out by-pass filtration, & benefits are not commensurate, non-syn seems a good choice. If you go w/state-of-the-art bypass filtration (and some do oil analysis on regular basis) you can get a benefit from synthetic.

[rjschoolcraft]

Shell Rotella-T 15w-40 in the summer.

Shell Rotella-T 5w-40 Synthetic in the winter.

[cruzer]

rotella 15-40 & a wix filter

[richard7]

Amsoil synthetic 5W30 series 3000 (HDD) oil, with Fleetguard LF-3488 synthetic media oil filter.

Change interval is 12000 km (7500 miles) with a filter change at 6000 (3750 mi.).

The oil is never black, and oil analysis results always show less than 0,2% soot, in fact, last one was 0%.

[Johnny B.]

Ron, where are you getting the 5w 40, never seen it in the Ft. Wayne area.

[moondoggie]

Good Day!

I used to use Rotella 15W40 summer, 10W30 winter. I'm in the middle of switching everything (EVERYTHING: cars, trucks, mowers, etc.) to Rotella 5W-40 Synthetic. For more details about my switch, go to the "Rotella 5W-40 Synthetic Oil" topic in the Member's Forum. This topic's pretty old, so you may have to search the Forum to find it (I searched for it - it's still there).

Both 95's seem to go a little further before needing a quart. Both used to go ≈ 2000 miles, now 2500 - 3000. The 89 pickup went 1000 miles on its 1st quart, but we just bought it - maybe it uses that much. It would be hard to tell if it's leaking by looking at my driveway - everything I own leaks. Amazingly, the oil pressure actually went up a little in both 95's; can't speak for the 89, it's my daughter's, I hardly ever drive it.

I'm getting this oil for $12.84/gallon, less my daughter's 10% discount (she works there [WalMart]), so I'm paying $11.56/gallon, or $2.89/quart. At this price, it costs me a little more than $20 for the oil each time I change, + the filter.

richard7: Where do you get your oil tested? How much does it cost? Any & all details, please. I'll do anything that's safe & is cost-effective. I change every 3000 - 3500 miles, but if I could safely extend that...

Blessings!

Brian Johnson, #5044

'82 6.2 1500 4X4 1/2T pickup, 4spd man w/ OD, bone stock, 335K+, "In Rust We Trust"
'89 6.2 4X4 1/2T pickup, bone stock, 145K+
'95 6.5TD 2500 4X4 heavy 3/4T pickup, Gear Vendors Aux. OD, 183K +
'95 6.5TD 1500 4X4 3/4T Suburban, Kennedy exhaust, 203K +

[richard7]

For oil analysis, I mainly use Wearcheck (Toronto, Canada). You can access the information through www.wearcheck.ca (http://www.wearcheck.ca) and there is a lab in the US too. Cost is 12$Can for base analysis, and 20$Can with TBN if you buy enough.

If you have a good combustion, you get a longer life out of the oil. For best results, use efficient oil filter, air filter and fuel additives (I use Amsoil or FPPF fuel add.). It all goes together to help promote a strong compression pressure with little blow-by and nice combustion with little smoke (soot).

The stuff cost more but the engine stays younger longer and he told me he is happy about that! :D .

[LanduytG]

Amsoil 15W-40 year round. Do NOT use the Amsoil 5W-30 in your 6.5TD. You will have increased wear, these older engine need a 40 weight. I have used the 5W-40 for over 40K in my 95 and switched it back to the 15W-40. If it has a lot of miles on it or power mods 7500 miles is all I would go without a by-pass system. I am sure that some have had luck with the 5W-30 but do yourself a favor and don't use it.

Greg

[tbuck]

Currently using Delo 400.
I just did an oil analysis on it when I changed it at 3k mi. ( I have some blowby coming from my dipstick tube and wanted to see if there was glycol in the oil) The anaylysis came back good (I don't remember what the soot reading was but it was not out of range) and it actually stated that it was good enough to continue using :eek:

Even though it came back good, I am still planning on switching to synthetic. I'm just using up the 6 gal. that I bought recently.

[LanduytG]

I started out using synthetic & tried two different brands. Was always down over a quart+ in 3000 miles. There was another thread on this about 6-8 months ago and three things seemed to come out of it: I find this very interesting. I have never had anyone tell me they started to use oil when they went to a synthetic. In fact is has been the opposite. I know a guy in TX that had 230K on his 6.5 and it was using a quart every 700 miles. When he went to the syntheic it used a quart every 1200 miles. You make sound like synthetics cause leaks. It does not cause them but if you have one it will find it. If you have a bad seal or gasket thats ready to leak the synthetic will clean it up and it will being to leak. But a sound engine with no leaks will be fine. Synthetics have plenty of benifits like less wear, better cold starts normally will use less oil and it will make the engine run smoother. This is not me saying it because I sell it either. I have had plenty of customers tell me this.

Go with the synthetic and you will be happy you did and your truck will love you for it. :cool:

Greg

[Dvldog 8793]

Howdy
I use mobile Delvac1300 and wix gold line(?) filter. I've tried synthetic and I may be the one that was referred to as to having leaks and then they dried up after going back to regular. I change my oil EVERY 2500-3000 miles. I've stopped in the middle of Colorado to change my oil! If you go by the rating system all of the commercial oils are about the same. I think it's more of what people trust and have had good luck with in the past. Hope this helps!
L8r
Conley

[Phil Holmen]

I am running mobil 1 15W-50 all year round but I have a oil pan heater for the winter and an extra set of skid plates and block off the entire front end in the winter... oil pressure is the same as in the summer even on startup... I have a mechanical gauge to test under the hood also...

[Tough Guy]

Mobil Delvac 1 5/40 synthetic.

I have used it for 100,000 miles and love it. I change it every 3000 miles.

Cheers

[rjschoolcraft]

Wal-Mart carries the Rotella-T 5w-40 Synthetic.

[Kidd]

I use Exxon 0W/40 full synthetic year round in all my Diesels.. GM, Navistar, Perkins, Cummins.
Looked at the specs, it actually has a better rating in hot weather than 15/40. My 6.5 GM now makes the full 3000 without adding any oil.

Main reason for the 0W/40 is we can go from +100 to -40 in the span of a month, got tired of trying to drain 15/40 when its -40.

K.D. :cool:

[moondoggie]

Good Day!

richard7: Thanks. I

[Diverguy]

Big Red Burb;
Depending on how toasty or cool it is during the summer I use either Shell Rotella 15W40 w/ XLA or straight Rotella 30. I might use 10W30 Rotella w/XLA or Petro Canada Duron 10W30 during the winter. Given recent thermal history the 10W30 lasts until the beginning of February when I switch back to 15W40. I would really like to try some 5W 40 for the winter but most of it is synthetic and pretty blinkin pricey. I still have 60 liters of Shell Rotella SB 5W-30 to use up but the winters here haven't been cold enough to justify it.

[pgoldstein]

While I was reading about everyones choices of oils I noticed that richard7 said that his oil was never black. My oil is ALWAYS really black. I have been using Mobil Delvac 15W-40 and some Penziol 15W-40 with a Mobil filter and changing every 2500 miles. When I change my oil I start my engine just long enough to fill the filter and build some pressure before I check the dip stick. When I check the stick is looks as black as the old stuff I drained out.
Is there some trick to getting this thing clean?


97 K3500
4L80E
K&N air filter
Kennedy Exhaust

[richard7]

A way to keep the oil clean? Yes there is.

1.- On a used engine with already some deposits and used oil in it, you have to first clean the inside of the engine with an engine flush (any kind you find at an auto parts store will do).

Use new cheap oil and a new cheap oil filter to do it. Then, drain it completely, lifting the vehicule on the side with a jack, this will drain the remaining oil that normally stays in the bottom of the pan if you don't (we should do it anyway when changing the oil. About half a quart of crapy oil stays there if you don't.

You can do it twice if the engine has accumulated a lot of deposits. It will clean the lifters and oil passages too...

2.- Than you put the new oil and filter, but NOT any kind. My experience is with Amsoil, but other good real synthetic can do the same, like Mobil Delvac 1 5W40 that I consider to be close to the Amsoil.

3.- Use a synthetic media full flow oil filter like Fleetguard LF-3488, Donaldson P166564 or Amsoil SDF-24 (semi synthetic media). For best results, install an efficient by-pass filter of 3 micron absolute or better efficiency.

4.- Use a good fuel additive like FPPF Total Power, or Amsoil, in every fuel tank to promote better combustion. It pays for itself as it slighly increase mpg, AND, it keeps the injectors, fuel pump and combustion chamber in top clean shape.

If the engine is in good shape, the oil will stay clean a long time.

I did this to my Suburban at around 225000 km (140000 mi.), but I used an industrial 5 micron absolute oil filter in the cooler line as an additional full flow filter. The oil stayed clean something like 20000 km before going on the black side. I kept the oil 100000 km using oil analysis. Yes, the oil was black at the end. :D

The Savana is pretty new with 42000 km on it, but the oil has just a little bit of black on it when I change it at around 12000 km, with a filter change at 6000 km.

On a side note, original oil recommendation for 6.2 and 6.5 was SAE 30 straight oil with 15W40 being a second recommended choice (now 15W40 is the recommendation, with 5W40 in the cold). Mineral 15W40 oil rapidely become a 20W30 like oil with some use, as the viscosity improver wear off. The engine has no problem living with a 30 grade oil, because that is what is happening in the real life when using mineral oil!

This is a reason (but not all) why a diesel synthetic 30 grade oil (like 5W30) can be used, as the viscosity doesn't change like the mineral oil, and stays at a 30 weight.

I use the Amsoil 5W30 regular or HDD in my Suburban year round, and the HDD in the Savana, with expected results, not luck. But as it was said, don't use it. ;)

[rwpierce]

I use Kendall Super D3 15w-40 with Fleetgaurd LF3488 filter

[LanduytG]

richard7

Use 5W-30 if want I don't care. How many 6.5 have you used it in just yours? I have have seen reports of several and the majority it did not work well at all. Wear metals went why up aspecially iron. Iron is normally in the 50ppm range but with 5W-30 they would range from 110-150 ppm. Thats 100-200% increase in wear and you say thats OK? I will never recommend it for use in a 6.5 to my customers again. If you have low wear great i am glad, but you are in the minority not the majority.

Greg

Greg

[richard7]

Greg,
I find it quite strange you say I find it OK about increasing wear of 100-200%.

I am using and selling Amsoil products since about 15 years. In addition, I do oil analysis for all kind of equipment at work for a big fleet of vehicules (1500). I never had an increase in wear when using Amsoil 5W30 in engines, including the 6.5. Oh, I am the minority...

Increase iron level can be explained for various reasons, but in my opinion, you didn't find it yet...

[LanduytG]

richard7


In addition, I do oil analysis for all kind of equipment at work for a big fleet of vehicules (1500). I never had an increase in wear when using Amsoil 5W30 in engines, including the 6.5. I did not say all diesels did I? I recommend the 5W-30 for the Dmax, Power Stroke and Cummins and any other new diesel. I don't recommend it for the older GM 6.5, 6.2, Ford 6.9 or old 7.3.

The big fleet you have is it all the 6.5's or are you basing what you have seen on just your 6.5?

So you are saying if wear drops back to normal with the 15W-40 the engine has a problem? These are certainly not like heavy duty slow running diesels. Also the 30 allows for more blow by which raise the soot level now surely you agree that extra soots not good?

I don't really care if you use it or not but a blanket statement like use it in all diesels is silly. Yes it might be silly to say don't use it in the 6.5, but certianly don't use it without oil analysis. Using 5-30 is fine if the engine does not increase wear but in most 6.5's I have seen wear is increased.

Anyway you have your opinion and I have mine. Won't be long and you will be seeing the white stuff on the ground.

Greg

[TRobinson]

I use RedLine Oil Products

Been using them for +14 years, in twin turbo sports cars, Jeeps, vans and my Diesels, a 99, 6.5 Suburban, and a 04 Ram 3500 cummins HO

I get better mileage with Red Line 15W40 in the engine, and Red Line ATF in Trans, Red Line 75W90 in the Diff's, typical I see a 10-18% increase in mileage.

I also use Amsoil bypass filter rigs when I can find a space to put them.....

Red Line is $$ per quart, around 7.95 a Q, but the results and savings in fuel is great, when viewed over the life of the car


Also I change the filter at 3K miles, and 6K miles - just topping off the oil level after the new filter is changed. At 7500 to 8K I do a full oil change. I do check the oil at 5K miles for break down....now the mileage between changes are modified if I am towing, etc....

I have yet to find any oil products the beat Red Line, Amsoil comes the closest, but they make a better bypass filter <G>

I also used RedLine to solve automotive problems with GM/Ford when their advance vehicle groups call because their backs against the wall and they need help fast....... (www.pioneertechnology.com)

[patrick m.]

Rotella 15W-40

[JoeyD]

I run Delvac 1 5/40 all year. I have used Mobil synthetics for years with great results

[CareyWeber]

Delo 400

Per Dr Lee Dino Juice :D

Carey

[JeepSJ]

Originally posted by Kent:
You just cant beat Amsoil, thats not a opinion but a proven fact. OK, I'll bite.

NEO. It blows Amsoil away. Amsoil is now just a blending of hydrocarbons, much the same as Mobil 1. Years ago Amsoil was a true synthetic lubricant, but not any more (at least according to a friend who is an Amsoil dealer). NEO, on the other hand, is a diester based lubricant - it is not petroleum based. It is a true synthetic lubricant. http://www.neosyntheticoil.com/ for more information.

[Dvldog 8793]

I run mobil delvac1300 9 months and mobil 1 5-40 for the winter months. Wix filters until I burn up the case that I bought :D Then I'll be switching to a amsoil bypass remote system. ;)
For what it's worth, I change the oil every 3000 regardless of synthetic or non.
L8r
Conley Janssen

[DmaxMaverick]

Someone must be confusing Amsoil with Castrol. Castrol synthetic is "hydrocracked" class III dino oil, which, according to the US Supreme Court, can be considered a synthetic. It was Castrol that was allowed to call their "synthetic" oils a synthetic, after Mobil sued them for labeling it as such. Rotella synthetic is also the same category as Castrol, as are many others.

Amsoil (except the blends and dino labeled) was, and is, a true, full synthetic. That's a fact. I am not qualified to say it is the best, but I use it with complete confidence.

I've heard NEO is a good product. It does not, however, "blow away" any brand, including Amsoil. That is an opinion, stated by NEO. Amsoil and the other manufacturers make the same claim about their product. It's just marketing.

Use whatever product that meets your requirements and you feel comfortable with. It is my opinion that synthetics (of any category) are better than traditional oils in most cases, but may not always be practicle.

[ 02-23-2004, 02:34 PM: Message edited by: DmaxMaverick ]

[eracers999]

Jeep CJ;

Ill also bite,
Back up your claim with some testing proof.
This is a challenge to any one.
Please, PROVE me wrong, and ill start buying that product. That is going to take a little bit more than somthing someone said.
Do your web searches and you wont find anyone trying to compare thier product to amsoil. Why, because because they dont even come close to measuring up.
Your statement about amsoil not being a true synthetic is simply untrue. If NEO is the oil you say then shurly their must be some documentation to this claim of greatness.
Kent

[eracers999]

DmaxMaverick;

You are right on the money with the Castrol issue.

Kent

[JeepSJ]

Kent, I stand corrected on the Amsoil statement. As I said, I was only repeating what I heard from an ex-Amsoil dealer.

NEO has been compared to Amsoil and did, in fact, perform better. The results used to be on the old NEO website. I looked for them on the new site and could not find them.

As for real world experience... We run a F150 in the MDR and BTD desert racing series. We have a stroked 460 that has been dyno'd at better than 700hp. Ford big blocks have a stupid design for the oil pump - the pump sits at the bottom of the pan, connected to the block through a long cast piece of the pump housing. Twice we have had the pump housing break off. Both times, we continued to run, first time was about 70 miles, second was about 120 miles, and finished both races with 0 oil pressure. We ran hard enough to actually win our class in one of the races. I can put you into contact with any of our team members who can verify the story. We are smarter now - we run an external pump.

[FrankieRider2]

I use Shell Rotella 15W40 oil and ACDelco filters every 5K.... between changes I top off with SuperTech 15W40 oil from Wal-Mart.

So far, 193K and still going strong....

[GARY PAGE]

I use Shell Rotella 15W40 oil and a Wicks 2 Qt oil filter.

[john8662]

Looks like I am the minority using Pennzoil Longlife 15w40. I'm using this oil in my pickup 6.2L, PT 6.2L and my K2500 Sub 6.5TD. See lots of posts for Amzoil, Delo, and Rotella. Any comments on the Pennzoil diesel oil?

[Barry Nave]

Is there really any bad oil :confused:
If it's CH4 + and better rated thaen does it really matter?
Just installed the bypass, and the filter system
is where,or I'll say that counts ;)
Do we drink stright water? Or do we have filter's in our house ;)

[Dvldog 8793]

I think I have to agree. If you change it regular with a filter then as long as you are using a certified diesel oil then you SHOULD be ok ;)
Some oils are probably better than others but for the majority of normal use it probably boils down to personal choice. I think you DO have to separate the synthetics from the dino oil. I have seen a differance in my truck. :D
L8r
Conley

[C.K. Piquup]

I have 230,000mi.on my`92(y`all probably know that by now)and because of the constant service and knowing that realisticly I`m lucky to keep oil changes at 3,000mi.(about every 6wks),and seldom have time to check gearboxes,I`ve been going to(yes)Jiffy Lube.I consider it good preventive maintainence,have a fleet account,and can get it done when I`m flat broke(no reason to put off).It still uses no oil between changes.They use Pennzoil 15w40,I just make sure of that.I could use top dollar stuff doing it myself it would probably cost about the same if not more.Of course,that doesn`t do anything for my other lubing.Seems to gitter done,I`ve had no regrets. PS,anybody runnin`on old french fry oil?I know,another post.

[Wheat Whacker]

Amsoil 15w-40 synthetic at 10,000 mile intervals and change the filter every 5000 miles and an oil analysis at least every oil change and sometime every filter change.

[GARY PAGE]

What do you do if the analysis comes back bad?

[ktmracer]

ok, i guess i`m really the minority or the only guy who`ll own up to it. i use, are you ready? wal-mart`s very own super tech brand!!all the research i`ve been able to do on it tells me it is currently made by quaker state.(not 100% sure) i can buy it in 2 gal. containers at a great savings and at only 3000 to 3500 miles between changes, i don`t feel any oil w/ the same ase specs as super tech will give me any problems. at least it hasn`t so far: 87,500miles and counting.

[Wheat Whacker]

The analysis has come back bad only once and they told me to check my oil cooler lines and turbo bearings. Sound funny doesn't it but sure enough about a month later my oil cooler line went to hell and my several months later I had my pickup in to the local Diesel shop and they told me I needed a new turbo which I had suspected. Since then it has come back good saying the oil is still good for continued use.

[morgan]

The previous owner of my truck used Royal Purple synthetic blend oils thoughout.

For 203,000 miles, my 6.5TD is amazingly tight, efficient, and puts out no smoke, so I have kept using RP oils. royalpurple.com

Now Royal Purple has a diesel truck division called Long Rider, and it comes in very handy 1 gallon containers for about $16 at local truck stops. longrider.com

When I first bought my truck, I switched to Rotella, and noticed a distinct loss of fuel efficiency. From 16.5 mpg to 15 mpg for several tanks in a row. I found a RP source, and immediately went back to 16mpg or more.

[airjohn56]

Shell Rotella 15W-40, Baldwin B1428.

[moondoggie]

Good Day!

Shell Rotella synthetic 5W-40, $12.84 @ WalMart. NAPA gold oil filters.

Blessings!

Brian Johnson, #5044