DaHooooley Bit the dust

[Robyn]

Well troops, sad to say, the DaHoooley bit it this afternoon.

Temp started getting a tad hinky on the way home from Portland and then it puked coolant out.

Never got over 205 but the top hose was hard and every so often it would puke green out.

Got it home ok without incident. Oil level fine and it still runs super.

Not sure exactly other than its a top end issue most likely.

Over the next week or so I will get the engine yarded out and back in the shop so I can do a very clean careful Autopsy on the beast. :(

Missy is not all all happy at this time. With the economy where its at, I really can't think about spending a buttload of $$$$ on the thing either.

I have a sneeking hunch that either one of the heads cracked or a gasket went.

My first inclination is that the MLS gasket may have gone south.
I am guessing other than its a compression leak into the cooling system.

I dont want to try running the engine any more since I dont know if there is any coolant leaking into a cylinder.

Will just get the green drained out and the oil and go from there.

If there is a bright side, it would have to be, AT LEAST ITS CLEAN :rolleyes: and all the bolts will come out easily.

This engine left a bad taste in my mouth from the point that I discovered the one deck having been done twice.

Will keep you folks up to date as it happens.

Missy bows her head for DaHooooley.

Robyn

[a5150nut]

Damn! That's a shame.

I think I will refrain from any of my usual smart a$$ remarks this time.

Postpone Blazer and use that motor for Dahooly?

That's just plain tuff luck. Or just another fork in the road. . . .

[arveetek]

Bummer! How many miles did you have on the engine? Not very many IIRC.

Casey

[Robyn]

4K miles as of yesterday.

Yup definately a bummer.

I took a look at things and fooled around a bit last night. The coolant level never dropped any more in the jug and the oil level is stable.

I am very suspect that one of the heads I got had/has an issue.

Since the git go, the when pulling a hill the temp would rise and fall from 190 to 205 and I have never seen one do this so much.

I am thinking that possibly the LH head has a small leak thats causing the coolant to get bubbles and causing the rapid temp changes.

Just can't tell at this point.

The LH head has the stock Felpro gasket and the RH head has the Cometic.

Gonna take some serious snooping to figure it out.

One things for sure, I will never use another used 6.5 head for any reason.

I knew better at the time, but $$$$$$$$$$$ were so tight and I needed to get the rig back together.
Ahhh well, do it over.

Just hope that this is not a number 8 cylinder crack :eek: coming to haunt.

Makes a fresh set of Clearwater heads look really great right now.

Must be the cat yellow paint job


Missy

[trbankii]

Not good to hear. Interested to see what you find out.

I tried to go back through old posts, but did you do the lock-n-stitch on this block?

[Robyn]

Yess this block got the Lock N Stitch inserts. Bored .5mm and the decks done.

The two issues that I feel compromised the project were (1) having to use the thick cometic gasket on the RH side and using the two used heads.
Even if I find only one head with an issue, both will get replaced.
I dont really want to do this Beotch a 3rd time.

I put new pistons, rings bearing including the cam, lifters, timing chain, injectors, glow pugs, all the seals and gaskets.

UPDATE

Got out for about an hour and a half and started in ripping stuff off the engine.

Git the shroud, fan, batteries, AC pump, alternator and just about have the turbo ready to come off.
Air filter box is off and stashed in the back until needed again.

Next go round I will jack the sucker up, block it and then go after the Exhaust cross over, front drive shaft and all the rest of the crap thats on the bottom side.

I am going to drain the oil before long too (Just because) I want to allow any possible leak to maybe leave a telltale sign in a cylinder or on a head to help find the issue.

If the issue comes down to the heads, I will not rip the lower end apart.

There is really no reason to dig in there unless something ugly shows up.

A fesh set of heads, the gaskets and few incidentals will not be too bad.

This is a very good lesson in NOT using old heads me thinks.

Kicking myself in the butt now for not using a set of Clearwater heads in the first place. $670 a pair to the door. :( was a bad decision just to try and save a few $$$$.

More as it happens.

Missy

[cowboywildbill]

Is this the one you found the mil. surplus parts for? I hope it's not too expensive to fix.
Good luck.

[trbankii]

Yess this block got the Lock N Stitch inserts.

Ok, I thought that I remembered that being done. But could not find it in a skim through the threads.

[More Power]

Just like we don't recommend a fuel injection pump change for most engine running problems - till every other possibility else has been eliminated, the heads should not be blamed till you've had a chance to look at them.

More than likely, it's a head gasket.

Fel-Pro gaskets have been proven over hundreds of thousands of miles of use. Proper deck prep, the right gaskets, new head bolts and careful assembly virtually eliminates a gasket failure. I've been involved with about a half dozen 6.2/6.5 rebuilds over the past 10 years. All received Fel-Pro gaskets - none have failed.

[Robyn]

Jim

The decks were done and the heads were flat and smooth. The Flepro +.010 was used on the LH side and the Cometic used on the RH side.

New TTY bolts were used too..

To have a gasket fail in that short time frame is just not too likely IMHO

The heads were used and after being Magged and Pressure tested 120PSI with plates bolted to them they seemed fine.

I am still very suspect of the heads over something else.

The Cometic gaskets have a very good track record too from the info I can gather.

Local shop has used them many times when they needed to exceed normal deck machining limits, and has no issue.

My suspicion is that possibly a little crack between two valves may have spread and finally found water.

There were a couple small hairline ones but nothing that looked bad.

If the cometic gasket has failed for ?????? reason then I will likely scrap that block and move on.

The bottom line though is that it has to be done right this time. I can't afford a 3rd time down..

This morning the coolant level in the jug was still about where it was last night so there is likely not too big of a leak.

This was not a catastrophic failure on the gasket.

Whatever though, I will get to the bottom of it.

I had a few heads back in the days of the 5.7 Olds diesels that we never could find the leaks and yet they would leak again and again even with new gaskets.

May be a small crack, a pinhole or a porosity that finally let go. ?????????????????? no way to know until its apart.

The fact is that its letting compression into the cooling system is a given.

No aparent coolant into the cylinders even with the system under pressure and the truck sitting for 20 minutes. Restarted fine and ran smooth as silk..

Place it under a load and the thing would start puking green juice.

Relieve the pressure at the cap and the thing was fine for about 5 minutes.

Its a crack me thinks, but we shall see.


Missy

[Robyn]

Cowboy

I used the MIL 6.5 Chrome rings in this engine.
The Pistons were aftermarket .5mm OS with the coated tops and the teflon coated skirts.

The bearings were Cleavite
+.010 Felpro Head gasket LH
.070 thick cometic on the RH side

I am so very currious as to what happened in there.

Missy

[DmaxMaverick]

Here's a fresh idea......

How 'bout havin' the trial before the hangin'???

Good luck!

[Robyn]

Cause its more fun to hang first and save the trial cost's :D

For sure, we will not know much until the post mortem is done.

The only thing I am spending any $$$ on right now is a couple boxes of zip lock baggies to Tag and bag the various bolts and goodies.

Going to be more than a day or two until it goes back together so a taggin and a baggin is in order.

Missy

[Robyn]

If I had a 6.2 that was nearing completion, I would for sure swap the needed pieces and stuff it in.

Unfortunately the 6.2 stuff I have is no where near ready to do anything except hold down the dirt.

The only good plan is to wait and see whats needed and then proceed accordingly.

Missy

[Robyn]

Update

Got out this morning and got a bit of work done.

Got the grille out to gain access to the oil cooler.
Front tires and wheels off and the rig blocked up.
Oil drained out
Front skid pan/shield off
Lower half of the fan shroud off

Hopefully, tomorrow morning I can get the starter off as well as most of the other stuff on ther bottom side.

The plan is to get the sucker out of the truck this weekend so I can get inside and see what happened.

The oil level was quite a bit over full this morning, so I am hopefull that there will be a real obvious "smoking gun" that shows itself.

The coolant level had gone down in the jug from being about 2 inches up
down to being out of sight. I went someplace for sure :eek:

I am getting very excited now to find out what happened here.

Hopefully this debacle can be a good learning experience for all of us.

Already I am forming a very strong opinion about NOT using old 6.5 heads

If this turns out to be a head I am going to be really PSSSSSSSSSSST off.

This absolutely should not have happened.
With new gaskets, new bolts, Block decked and things all spiffy.

Something gave up, BIG TIME :eek:

Thats all I have for now.

Missy

[Subzilla]

Hang in there. I know that's frustration at the max.

We're all eagerly awaiting the official word.

[Robyn]

yesss I know the feeling well.

This is definately not what I wanted to be doing with the last vestiges of summer.

Really wanted to be fooling with the Blazer project and no redoing this beast :(

Depending on the outcome, the downtime may be through the winter.

Missy

[cowboywildbill]

Robyn, were keeping our fingers crossed for you. Did you read the rest of the post on the rottella oil. I see you were a Chrysler Mechanic also. I responded to that on the post also.

[Robyn]

Will check out the oil post.

UPDATE

Got out this morning and ripped more stuff off the beast.
Getting down to the point now that I can see the engine again.

Hopefully we will have the engine hanging on a string by Noon or there about.

Here is a couple Piccy's so far.

Hope to have the beast on a stand tomorrow afternoon and then Monday, with a clead head :rolleyes: I can do some air pressure tests and then get it apart.

Missy

[phantom309]

i hope #8 hole is good,..

nick

[DaveBr]

Hey Robin

I saw a wooden box in one of your pics. Is it the same one you use when your off on one of your rants? Sorry to hear about the dually.

[Robyn]

:D:D:D You betcha. Gotta keep my soap box handy for sure.

Yeah, is a sad deal, but as they say SH** happens.

With any luck, by later today the little yellow beast will be back on the stand and then I can really get into figuring out what happened.

Thanks for all the good wishes.

Its a disapoinment for sure, but these things can and do happen.

My gut feeling is that the reason will be connected squarely to trying to do this one on a shoestring budgit.

Very suspicious of the heads.

We shall see for sure.

Missy

[Robyn]

The Beotch is out.
Got after the sucker about 7:30 this morning and finished the nic nac crap. My friend showed up around 10 and we went after the bellhousing and motor mounts.

Got the sucker hanging free and out of the truck at about 1:30

Beat, bloody and tired.

Tomorrow I will dig into it and see what happened.

Later troops :D


Missy

[Robyn]

Beast is apart.

Felpro gasket on the LH side was perfect
The MLS /cometic gasket on the RH side had signs of leakage between cyls 2&4.

The leakage was between two of the inner thin layers and went up to a small steam hole.

The block at this point is not worth the $$$$$$$$$$$$ to try another cometic gasket.

The cylinders all look real good, the rings had seated very good and the air inlet to the turbo was absolutely DRY with no oil blow over.

There was no sign of glycol having been leaking into any cylinder.

Its all tagged and bagged and boxed up in plastic totes now.

Going to leave the shorty all together until I have something to work with..
Going to place an ad on craigs list and maybe scare up a 599 block thats good.

I would love to try one of the aftermarket blocks butttttttttt $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ are going to be a stumling point.

Going to start over with a fresh hunk of iron and go from there.

I have more .5MM OS rings left from the EBAY deal so I can reuse these pistons in another block.

Well we gave it hell folks, but as they say, the best laid plans ya know.

Will post more as it happens.

Thanks for all the well wishes.


Missy

[PONTIACMAN]

Beast is apart.

Felpro gasket on the LH side was perfect

The MLS /cometic gasket on the RH side had signs of leakage between cyls 2&4.

The leakage was between two of the inner thin layers and went up to a small steam hole.

The block at this point is not worth the $$$$$$$$$$$$ to try another cometic gasket.

The cylinders all look real good, the rings had seated very good and the air inlet to the turbo was absolutely DRY with no oil blow over.

There was no sign of glycol having been leaking into any cylinder.

Its all tagged and bagged and boxed up in plastic totes now.

Going to leave the shorty all together until I have something to work with..
Going to place an ad on craigs list and maybe scare up a 599 block thats good.

I would love to try one of the aftermarket blocks butttttttttt $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ are going to be a stumling point.

Going to start over with a fresh hunk of iron and go from there.

I have more .5MM OS rings left from the EBAY deal so I can reuse these pistons in another block.

Well we gave it hell folks, but as they say, the best laid plans ya know.

Will post more as it happens.

Thanks for all the well wishes.


Missy


Whats keeping you from throwing it back together?????

A leak between 2& #4 cylinder that may have been caused by the cosmetic spacer???

Possibly maybe a call to that supplier may shed light on a deviation in the torque specs of the bolts or something else simple and a slight tweaking in the area of leakage can put you back in dependabilityville allowing the block to provide years of trouble free service...

I would definitely not give up on that block unless the makers of said deck saver say the saver is actually junk and they admit their product is junk.

I feel maybe increased tightening specs better bolts or something simple could easily save that engine!!!!! and cant believe your throwing in the towell.

Years ago i bought a turbo 4 cyl mustang that everybody said was unfixable as it had a knotched block from the driver forceing the turbo stang to push on homeward after overheating popping the head gasket , and the intence heat blowing back and forth between cylinder resulted in a block that had a notch between those 2 cylinders that looked as had been put their by use of blow-torch...

Simply brazeing back the notch carefull sanding flat and oval in bore area restored to good as new....:rolleyes:

Eventually sold this to a college kid that commuted 800 miles a week between schools and the think ran 200 thousand miles more with a block the others said was junk...;)

Would you be interested in selling dohooooley block if possitive you cant make it work as im pretty positive i could make it work with carefull assembly and possibly better hardware.:)

Maybe you noticed cracks in the main webbing you rather not mention but your giveing up much easier then i pictured miss missy doing.;:p

COME-ON now,,,,,,, and ,whats going on missy?????

If it ran 4000 miles before leaking maybe the bolts need a higher yield torque to yeal bolt set for that head or a stud kit with another 15- 20 pounds added for making sure everything stays exactly in place!!!!!!:eek:

Master engine and tranny man of days long gone

:eek:The TEDDYBEAR ENGINE MAN!!!!!:eek:

[trbankii]

The MLS /cometic gasket on the RH side had signs of leakage between cyls 2&4.

The leakage was between two of the inner thin layers and went up to a small steam hole.

So you're saying that the leak was internal to the gasket? Between layers in the gasket?

I agree with Pontiacman - seems like at the very least a call to the mfg of the gasket is in order to discuss what went wrong. Perhaps they can shed some light on what happened.

[Robyn]

The ugly details are pretty simple.

I spoke with a fellow 6.5 lover last evening after my last post.
He had a similar issue with a cometic gasket on a 6.5 that he had rebuilt last year.

This was after all the crowing I did about how "cool" it was to be able to save a block that needed more than the .010 cleanup cut.

I will for sure give cometic a call and discuss the issue. I suspect that I will get the same lip service that my friend received.

Neither myself or my friend from over the other side of the state are strangers to the 6.2/6.5 engines and have had our share of time wrenching on them.

This said, I know when it time to pull the plug on a particular piece of iron and stop tossing $$$$$$$$ at it.

Using the custom gasket was a "reasonable" GAMBLE and I considered it that at the time, A Gamble.

The first thing I did after discovering that the block had been decked twice was tear the engine back diown and box all the parts and go into a Holding pattern.

At this point, the time effort and $$$$$$$$$$ to put the thing back together is just far too much to again "GAMBLE" on a questionable fix.


I would bet that Cometic is not going to donate a new gasket.:(

This is not a case of giving up, its a case of doing it right as it should have been done in the first place.

The 6.5 TD is not an engine that one should cut corners on, especially in the area of the heads and decks

The inserts in the bottom end seem to be doing really well. I have done several sets for folks locally, and to date, NO Complaints or failures.

With age comes wisdom, and this is a time for me to use some of it.

The plan is to find a better piece of iron and transfer all the guts from this engine over and then install a fresh set of heads.

I am still not ruling out a leak in one of the heads. What I found was not the absolute "smoking gun"
There could be a small leak in one of these heads and there is not any easy way to isolate it.

Before I tore the engine down, I pressure tested each cylinder (engine on the stand and full of water)

I got zero indications.

This did not supprise me as the pressure in the cooling system was not extreme but just enough to blow coolant out every few minutes as the pressure rose.

The engine never overheated (went to 205 twice) but had hard top hose and was puking coolant.

The bottom line here is my ability to spend the $$$$$$$$$$ to put this thing back together, as in tough right now.

This thing has got to go back together to stay the long haul this time.
I can't afford to toss more $$$$$$$$$$ at it in the hopes that it MIGHT work.

This last time it took a year before it failed. I dont want to be doing this again in another year.

I can remember back many years, having a big block chevy that just would not keep oil pressure, no matter what we did to it.

Finally after threee attempts and three sets of bearings I decided use another block ( same deal, block all machined, bored etc)

After the new engine was back in the rig and running. I took the "Bad block" and started cutting it up in the band saw.

Finally found the issue, it was a porosity about the size of a small pea in the passage that fed one of the lifter galleries. (too many years to remember which side now)

Just enough of a leak that once the oil was warm the pressure would fall off to zip at idle and very low running.

The leak was in a place that was not accessable except after cutting the block up.

These sorts of things can happen.

**BACK TO THE 6.5**

Now "IF" the deck and been stamped as having been cut once when I got it, I would have never used it in the first place.
Did not find this out until the thing is going back together.

This mistake will never happen again !!

Sadly unless you do a trial assembly on a used "BARE" block, there is no real good way to tell if the block has been decked before.

If the engine has a crank, rods and pistons its easy to measure the piston to deck relationship.

At this point, its sit back and get a plan together that will result in a good outcome.

A hurry up and patch it up is not where this is going.

The cost at this point (Or lost $$$$) is still limited to the gasket set (heads and others)
The bore job and the deck machining.

The rest of the parts are quite usable in another block. If I find a good block with stock bores, I have a great low mile set of pistons.

As it stands, the search is on.

Will keep you posted as it happens.

Dont worry DaHoooley will rise from the ashes again. :D

Just have to make it work with the $$$$$ available.

Now if someone wants to donate a new P400 I would be delighted. :rolleyes:

Later troops and thanks for all the support and well wishes.


Missy

[Robyn]

I spoke with Cometic a few minutes ago and the gasket in question will be headed back for their inspection.

We shall see what they say.

Missy

[john8662]

No good can come from painting an engine CAT Yellow... Still using paint stripper on components to return them to factory black, glad to be rid of the yellow.

Anxiously awaiting the Cometic response. When talking to them for one of my wild TD projects I asked whether they'd modify them if I found they were not up the the task. Kinda test and fix as we find issues kind of deal. The rep pretty much said there was nothing wrong with them. Good to hear, but I'd also like the backing that if there was something to be improved upon and it was found that they'd work hard to modify and fix em as needed.

Still holding my breath, as I'd really like the Cometic's to work out, I've exceeded what the Felpro will hold.

J

[Robyn]

Spoke with Bill Heath and Maverick this afternoon and got our heads together.

I am still doing some calcs on the piston height and things but it may be possible to use a piston with an offset PIN ( lower compression) and then combine the +.010 gasket and arrive at a workable solution. The combination will still yield the proper compression but offer a usuable salvation for the block.

The issue is that the head will sit approx .015" closer to the crank centerline is all.

I really dont think that this is going to be an issue.

Am going to speak with the folks at Peninsular in the morning and run the whole mess past them and see what they offer as a solution.

More to come as it happens

Missy

[PONTIACMAN]

Spoke with Bill Heath and Maverick this afternoon and got our heads together.

I am still doing some calcs on the piston height and things but it may be possible to use a piston with an offset PIN ( lower compression) and then combine the +.010 gasket and arrive at a workable solution. The combination will still yield the proper compression but offer a usuable salvation for the block.

The issue is that the head will sit approx .015" closer to the crank centerline is all.

I really dont think that this is going to be an issue.

Am going to speak with the folks at Peninsular in the morning and run the whole mess past them and see what they offer as a solution.

More to come as it happens

Missy

Is the issue all about one side being 15 thousandths lower then the other?

I thought at some time i read your block was accidentally cut closer to 100 thousandths, (or some big chunk like that), but if its a matter of 15 thous i would think that would be nothing to worry about.

I think that would just raise the compression ratio a point or so on a diesel ,and I'm sure there's some "on line calculator" somewhere where you can put in the bore ,stroke,etc to get the roundabout compression ratio ,and some estimator of how much compression changes for each thousandth added or taken off the deck height.
,
Regardless Ive seen variations amongst gaskets that probably would have made a good 10 thousandths difference on how a head ultimately laid on a block. so as i said 15 thousandths seems almost trivial.

With Gasser's Ive seen some dopey people mill 50 thou from a head ,and 50 from the deck and the biggest problem with the total 100 thou clip missing was that the intake manifold bolts alignment was off.

Usually they would just (drill the holes a bit) rather then install spacers and they were still stupid, but fine nevertheless as far as getting the engine running:D

With a diesel "cutting the deck" should be something done more carefully, but as long as the valvetrain geometry is still OK ,and push-rods arent rubbing ,or valve springs arent binding, i would think your good to go.

You mentioned getting pistons with altered pin locations ,but i think personally i would just have the top of the pistons cut assuming that new pistons with altered wrist pin heights sounds cost prohibitive.

I definitely think your block sounds as viable as any unless I'm unaware of something ,and probably a talk with somebody who machines diesel blocks for a living could ease your mind on the deck height thing that seems to have you so concerned.

I would have no problem putting money into a block slightly cut at the deck with good gaskets ,or even something with a deep cut, especially if they make the spacers.

Ive heard these spacers save many a block from the grave, so i have to assume they are proven ,and work so either way i think your OK.

Ooh i`d be more concerned about the cracked heads i think you said your running or were using at the time of said problem ,and would be aiming my blame at that old junk which "somebody else might have tossed because that engine puked coolant after climbing a hill!!!!":)

Really,,,,,, it could be the heads ,and your blaming the block!!!!! TSK -TSK...:)

What i would do if you gave me block as i suggested...:D

1..If its a 15 thousandth variation in the deck toss the spacer and use the thickest head gasket you can find on that side adding 10 ft pounds of tq tightening the head-bolts which would be ARP studs....

Cylinder 8 with the cracking issue would have the 1 bolt where cracks grow left a few pounds low ,or stock depending on how things looked.

if using torque to yielders i would do as described exactly as said considering their metal rubber bands and i haven't a clue on quality from bolt to bolt, but they at least would be new!!!!!

If somebody makes aftermarket TTY bolts i would definitely consider them.

OOPPPS I'm ranting so :

#1. New heads

#2. clean block , heads , etc and assemble

#3.spin oil pump or use a pre lubrication so everything's completely lubed to the hilt on stand.

#4.spin engine 1 time on stand making sure valves don't touch pistons or anything like that..

Install engine , fire up with your normal procedure and drive the ship outta that dohooley changing oil all the time:D

Ohhh:

Best fan $$ can buy along with biggest radiator that will fit and coolest thermostat that you can find.

I have some crazy acquaintances that pull out their thermostats on any vehicle they buy or own.

Personally i think the idea is stupid with computers running things and such, but i must admit all hoses rubber and gaskets last forever and my bud who 1st told me about the "thermostat conspiracy to end engine lives" has a 70`s ford 300 six powered van with 600,000 miles and the valve cover has never been removed !!!!!I don't think he`s replaced anything under the hood except the water pump.

He also has a 70 camaro with 350 and same thing... Hoses last forever, engine never had anything except carb removed ,and that's got 500,000 miles on it, and now the speedometers been broken for 6 years

My point is i think most things under the hood prefer to run cool for longer life so i personally run the coolest thermostat i can find and change every 2 years.

Changed many many chevy and ford motors after thermostat stuck closed and engine blew hose then baked. Most engine deaths are from overheating one way or another so if you loose water shut it down ...

In the old days the only engines rarely changed even after numerous backings were mo-par very boring 318`s and 225 slant sixes.

Thank god for GM and ford cause with my cab / taxi customers i did motor swaps constantly....

Just never the mopars which ran ran and run for what seems forever.

SORRY FOR THE LONG RANT but,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, ,,,,,,,,,,,,:D



:oTeddymechanic:o

[Robyn]

The block had been decked on the RH side once before I got it (.015)
This is fine with a .010 OS gasket.

We cut the block another .015 to clean it up.

The result was a deck that was .030 undersize. :eek:

A factory standard gasket is .040-.045 when on the engine.

The Felpro .010 thicker gasket is approx .050-.055" thick when on the engine.

The problem is that the extra .015" is a MILE in these engines. The difference in compression ratio fro one side to the next would be way beyond anything tollerable.

.005" difference could be lived with but not .015"

The Cometic gasket was made to .070 thick and this gave the needed clearance between the piston and the head to match the other side.

The valve clearance is not really the issue on these. The valves are well up and closed, out of the way by the time the piston reaches TDC.

The issue is comp ratio and keeping them the same.

For example an 18:1 piston is approx .025" in the hole as compared to the stock pistons that are flush with the deck at TDC.

Very little makes a lot in these critters.


Missy

[Robyn]

UPDATE UPDATE

Ok troops

Things have taken some turns and the plan is to start over with a KNOWN good block.

I have made some calls and may have some possibilities.

Depending on what sort of iron shows up I may reuse the .5MM OS pistons or possibly a set of STD factory slugs that I have.

So as it stands right now, we are in a Holding pattern for a few days or ???

Anyone need a YELLOW DOOR STOP/BOAT ANCHOR

Will update or answer ???? as it happens.

Missy

[PONTIACMAN]

UPDATE UPDATE

Ok troops

Things have taken some turns and the plan is to start over with a KNOWN good block.

I have made some calls and may have some possibilities.

Depending on what sort of iron shows up I may reuse the .5MM OS pistons or possibly a set of STD factory slugs that I have.

So as it stands right now, we are in a Holding pattern for a few days or ???

Anyone need a YELLOW DOOR STOP/BOAT ANCHOR

Will update or answer ???? as it happens.

Missy


I CAN HAVE THE BLOCK ???????!!!!!!

I kndew there was a reason i took such a liken to you and your posts!!!!

And ya prove its reciprocal by offering me that block saveing me from the craigslist and ebay nightmare...

God bless missy and please let me know exactly when you want me to pick the blocker up :D

[PONTIACMAN]

UPDATE UPDATE

Ok troops

Things have taken some turns and the plan is to start over with a KNOWN good block.

I have made some calls and may have some possibilities.

Depending on what sort of iron shows up I may reuse the .5MM OS pistons or possibly a set of STD factory slugs that I have.

So as it stands right now, we are in a Holding pattern for a few days or ???

Anyone need a YELLOW DOOR STOP/BOAT ANCHOR

Will update or answer ???? as it happens.

Missy

I wont ask aqbout the heads or anything cause:


I CAN HAVE THE BLOCK :Dright ???????!!!!!!

I knew there was a reason i took such a liken to you and your posts!!!!

And ya prove its reciprocal by offering me that block saveing me from the crackliest and eBay nightmare...

God bless missy and please let me know exactly when you want me to pick the blocker up :D

Ill take you and the second for a nice faley minion dinner if they have them out there...

:D
PONTIAKTEDDY:D

[Robyn]

YUP, if you want that Hooooor Yous can have it.

Your worry about how to get it to your house :D

I will keep it clean and dry.


Missy

[93GMCSierra]

Ill take you and the second for a nice faley minion dinner if they have them out there...

:D
PONTIAKTEDDY:D

Hey I just moved to fl, what part are you in if you dont mind my asking?

[Robyn]

YESSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS FILLET, Mignon OH YEAH BUDDY

Cow meat, its whats fer dinner. :D

Its a long way from FL to NW Oregon, Geeeeez we are literally on opposite ends of the continent. The only place farther would be Alaska or Hawai.

Missy

[Robyn]

UPDATE

Got a contact from a forum member last night and there is a very good possibility that I have a 929 block coming from Arizona in the next few days.

It sounds like it may be a winner. Bored .5mm OS now and been a runner.

Little to no ridge. Looked over a pile of Piccys this morning already (Good close high res stuff)

Dont see any cracks that are obvious in the main webs and the decks look good.

With a little luck maybe this will work out well.

We shall see.

Missy

[rustyk]

I have a 599 very short block - light scoring on 5 thru 8. Heads trued, turbo checked. Set of Carquest gaskets. Kennedy dual thermostats. $300 plus freight from N FL if anyone needs. Help load into 1T van and I can deliver within 500 miles for mileage.

[93GMCSierra]

I have a 599 very short block - light scoring on 5 thru 8. Heads trued, turbo checked. Set of Carquest gaskets. Kennedy dual thermostats. $300 plus freight from N FL if anyone needs. Help load into 1T van and I can deliver within 500 miles for mileage.

Sounds like a great deal, At the moment it wont help me but if you have it down the road it would be good.

[rameye]

Robyn,

Your are welcome to my 929 block that I yanked this spring...head gasket failure...original equipment never screwed with....

I have a video of it running right before I yanked it.

Just sitting on the stand in the driveway...looking purdy...NOT!!

[Robyn]

Thanks so much for the offer.

Right now, if all goes well, I have a 929 block on its way from Arizona.

Forum member down there had a running complete and stripped it out night before last and a friend of his who lives in Washington not too far away from me is bringing it back this way.

Biggy issues with getting this stuff across the continent is the shipping costs.

I have had several offers for good blocks so far. A big thanks to everyone who has offered. :)

The other issue is that with so many 6.5 blocks, you find other issues when you get inside the little critters.

Lets hang on and let me see how this unit from down Arizona way turns out.

If it is not satisfactory then we can move forward possibly.

Big thanks for the offer

Robyn

[rameye]

Ok...I've yet to break it down and inspect it...

I was beat after doing the changeover and could care less...now my better half says its time to say good bye to the driveway ornament!

[Robyn]

Always interested in having some good Iron to build on.

Just the fact that we are sooooooo very far apart that makes it tough.

I am still on for my Blazer project and a 6.5 would be nice in that little critter.

If I build it on a 6.5 and use either a turned down 4911 pump or a standard "J" pump I can then turbo the little creature at a later date. :D

I have a good 6.5 crank as well as a set of rods and pistons, cam, lifters and such.

See whatcha come up with.


Missy

[Robyn]

UPDATE

I got word this morning that MY new to me Block is here in Oregon now.

Got to go for a drive tomorrow in the AM and pick it up.

About a 30 mile round trip.

Looking forward to getting it home, on a stand and after it with the Hot washer.

Hopefully in a couple days I can be into reassembling the engine. :D

Missy

[phantom309]

I thought cometics needed to be sprayed with copper coat to make 'em work right,.they always leak antifreeze,. and the deck needs to finished almost like a mirror,.

nick

[Robyn]

Yesssss the finish to be used with the Cometic gaskets has to be extremely smooth.

I did have the surfaces finished to their specs and they did recommend the copper coat.

I have spoken with several people that have had issues with these gaskets on the 6.5 sooooooooooo ?????

I will not make any real comments + or - at this point. The issue may have to do with the clamping forces available in the 6.5 due to the limited number of bolts.

I had zero issues with antifreeze leaking. The issue was compression leaking into the cooling system.

Missy

[Robyn]

UPDATE

Ok troops
The new block came home Sunday morning and got all cleaned and scrubbed.

NO cracks in the mainline
Bores perfect "LIKE NEW" at .5mm OS (Same as the yellow engine from DaHoooley)

Decks had not been machined.
Was going to send the block to the shop to get the decks cut.


AND THEN

While snooping over the decks looking to see if everything was ok otherwise I discovered a small crack in a front head bolt hole that runs down the outside of the block about 1/2"

The crack may be repairable by welding, and I have discussed this with other very knowledgable folks and beat it around some.

I have decided at this point to abandon this block as well.
I have an 85 vintage 6.2 block that is perfect other than needing the decks machined.

I have a good 6.2 crank and new MIL SPEC pistons.
I have rings too.
The bearings and some other stuff can be salvaged from the Yellow engine.

I am going to top it off with a fresh set of CCH heads and call it a day.

For what I use this truck for the 6.2 will be fine. Even with the non coated pistons it will be fine.
I dont run that truck anywhere near hard enough to hurt it.

The Banks Kits used on the 6.2, back in the day worked fine.

Will just clean up the pile of old bits and pieces here and get this thing back together.

I still have a nice Red Block to use for another project if need be.

SOOOOOOOOOOO the next step is to check the 6.2 block and make sure the decks are still standard height.

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO Missy here is not going to get burned on that trick again.

Once I am sure of the deck height, I will get the Iron off to the machine shop.

Interestingly enough, the 6.2 Block I have was a stick shift rig.


Later troops

Missy

[CleviteKid]

Yesssss the finish to be used with the Cometic gaskets has to be extremely smooth.

I did have the surfaces finished to their specs and they did recommend the copper coat.

The issue may have to do with the clamping forces available in the 6.5 due to the limited number of bolts.



Missy

I think you are right on the money here, Robyn. The MLS (multi-layer-steel) gaskets work very well in many applications, where the top of the block and the cylinder head deck are well-clamped and stiff. My Corvette, with the compression raised to 11.7 to 1 (it is NOT a diesel :D ), is very happy making 504 horsepower with 0.035" Cometic MLS gaskets.

[Robyn]

My 6.5 was 21.5 :1 and the gasket was .070" thick with about 5 layers.

2 spots showed soot having been passing through the layers.

Big difference between 11:1 and 21.5 :1 for sure.

The clamping force is a big deal.

Having spoken with a few others on the subject and I got varying degrees of response.

The 6.5 does not seem to like the MLS gasket. NEEEEEEEEEEEEEED MORE BOLTS

Robyn

[phantom309]

different chefs different soups etc,. but why not use arp studs?
i used them in motor #2 for my dually and it lasted almost a year at 20+ psi, the heads still weren't leaking when i pulled it down,. #8 piston was chewed up tho,.:D
the 6.5 block with the crack on the head bolt hole,. i,d use it after after i JB welded an arp stud in there,.
mebbe a dodge turbo , with 18:1 compression? with some perkins intake heaters?
Nick

[PONTIACMAN]

4K miles as of yesterday.

Yup definately a bummer.

I took a look at things and fooled around a bit last night. The coolant level never dropped any more in the jug and the oil level is stable.

I am very suspect that one of the heads I got had/has an issue.

Since the git go, the when pulling a hill the temp would rise and fall from 190 to 205 and I have never seen one do this so much.

I am thinking that possibly the LH head has a small leak thats causing the coolant to get bubbles and causing the rapid temp changes.

Just can't tell at this point.

The LH head has the stock Felpro gasket and the RH head has the Cometic.

Gonna take some serious snooping to figure it out.

One things for sure, I will never use another used 6.5 head for any reason.

I knew better at the time, but $$$$$$$$$$$ were so tight and I needed to get the rig back together.
Ahhh well, do it over.

Just hope that this is not a number 8 cylinder crack :eek: coming to haunt.

Makes a fresh set of Clearwater heads look really great right now.

Must be the cat yellow paint job


Missy

Excuse me but I'm a little loopy tonight,,, but what would the compression supposedly be if you:

1. Milled the other deck the exact amount the problem side was milled ??

You have 17 to 1 pistons ,and I'm guessing you could be up 3 points or approximately what the stock engine was anyway by milling level/ equal.

2.After reading the pros and cons of low 17:1 compression, i came to the conclusion this was for marine applications where the engines are run full throttle for 24 + hours and the blocks still failed anyway.

People must realize this does not seem to be the strongest engine durability wise with cracks everywhere and i feel much more confident having my daughter going to and from college 500 miles a week effortlessly cruising 90mph effortlessly with a 3.8 town and country ,while the tach reads 2200rpm effortlessly while the diesel would be past red line birthing cracks all over under the same circumstanced


OOpps, went off track , sorry..............:)


3. GM used 20-20.5 : 1 compression stock because it was a good balance between easy cold starts , little smoke , better traceability under no boost conditions ,or when the turbo had not spooled and had much better mileage.

4. Again the strongest point of the low compression pistons was to allow full throttle for hour after hour tug like full throttle use but does anyone drive these 6.5`5 full throttle for 24 hours anyway????

5.. Regardless 17 vs 21:1 the block was to weak anyway negating any advantages of slightly lower compression at the expense of the 21:1 compressions improved fuel economy , easy cold starts and off line snap before the turbo kicked in.

6..What do the experts say as far as milling the block ,and even using the low compression pistons and ending up with what the factory thought was the correct C:R of 21:1 or slightly higher???

7. Wondering what a higher compression 23:1 engine would run like with a mild turbo and stud girdle????

Maybe 35 mpg just waiting in the wings????:D

Just curious if anyone considered a high compression diesel instead of a diesel with compression reduced to that closer to a high compression gas engine

Also i now see that forged crank available that should stand the compression fine although the blocks will probably always be iffy.

Food for thoughts or comments

:Dteddybear:D

[Robyn]

The 6.5 is not all that weak of an engine.
The only ones we ever hear about are the small number that fail.

People who never have issues dont show up at these forums looking for help.

The real benefit of the 18:1 pistons is to be able to use more turbo boost and keep the burn temperature lower.

This pulls tons of heat stress off the pistons, block, heads and such.

The practice of using the 18:1 pistons in boats has been a great success.
Peninsular diesel has offered these engines for years and they can produce up to 400 HP with zero failures.

The latest upgrades in the 6.5 block by AMG/GEP has produced as BULLETPROOF engine.

Now the issues that I am facing are simple. I bought a "Good" used block to build for my truck back in summer 2009.

I did not realize until it was way too late that the block had been decked on one side, once before I got it.

Its near impossible to check this with a bare block, unless you set it up with a crank and a couple piston/rod assemblies and measure deck height.

***I will never get hung on that one again***

OK
The block came back from the machine shop and it was not until I started stuffing the sucker together that the problem came to light.

In a last didtch effort to save the $$$$$ already spent
$300 for the block
$200 for the decking
$125 for the boring
$50 for cam bearings
$25 for soft plugs
$20 for mag and hot tanking

Around $800 in the block and then find the nasty issue.

I am not about to spend more $$$$ on cutting the other deck, then spend big $$$$ on another set of pistons and then hope that this very convoluted mess will work right.

NOT GONNA HAPPEN.

The real problem is fairly simple.
Most of the "good" 6.5 blocks have 15 plus years of hard use on them.
The pool of decent iron is limited anyway.

Most of these engines are going to have had 200,000 miles or more already on them.

They have already given far more service than GM ever designed into them.

Folks like me come along and buy a 15 year old rig and plan on running it another 10 or more. :confused:

The 6.5 although it has seen issues, has not been a bad engine.

The average Joe/Jill that bought a 6.5 powered Burb or pickup had little issues.

A neighbor of mine has a 93 GMC with the 6.5 and it just flipped 340K last week. Never been apart.

I have owned 2 Burbs that went 200K plus before they needed engine work.

The incidence of cracked decks is nowhere near what I would call common.

I have seen two and the one I have now is the second one. The first one had been way overbored and sleaves installed in 3 cylinders. This was the cause and not due to the engine itself.

I will never say that the 6.5 was a GREAT engine, The Chevy big block and small blocks were great engines.

The 6.2 was a darned good engine. The extra stress placed on things by the turbo, IMHO tipped the scales.

Not until AMG came out with the P400 did this engine become a very good engine.

I will not even attempt to debate why GM did what they did as far as the design flaws go.

Big corporate engineers can design magnificent things, but after the bean counters trim it down to budgit, it becomes far less.

Bottom line now is to try and come up with a powerplant for my truck thats not going to break the bank.

Alligator project vs the hummingbird checkbook.

PHANTOM 309

I have considered using the block ??????????//

I can not afford another failure due to using less than optimal iron.

Jury is still out. I have a good 6.2 block that can be ready with just a .010" decking.
I may have a low hour marine block in the works, I may just wait and see if I can scrape up enough $$$ and get one of the zero hour aftermarket blocks (one of the ones that are supposedly not made overseas, HAAAAAAAAA HAAAAAA


Missy

[JohnC]

Someone may have a good reason not to, but how about a solid copper gasket?

[rameye]

You go Robyn!!

Go get yourself one of those "new Fangled" 506 blocks from Navistar/South America/Canada!

Too funny!

[Robyn]

You betcha Red Rider.

All via airmail straight from Bejing via Tiawan and all points east.

Yeah buddy.

No doubt.

Too bad AMG does not make their new blocks available as a bare block only.

The Solid copper has its own issues. The block needs to be O ringed and the heads receiver grooved to match.

We used to do this on the Blown BBC engines in our race boats.

Missy

[JohnC]

The Solid copper has its own issues. The block needs to be O ringed and the heads receiver grooved to match.

Wow! We used to cut them with a chisel, punch and hole saw and install them as is on motorcycles...

[Robyn]

OK folks, here is the final decision.

The 6.2 Block is going to the machine shop at the first oportunity.

Will cut the block decks and get this puppy together and making rattling noises again :D

Missy

[john8662]

The decks are weak on these engines, A good example. My machinist did a block of mine recetly that I'm selling to another friend and we used my torque plate on the block. The block was bored w/o the torque plate, and only finish honed with the plate. My machinist got really nervous because the block moved bunch. he said he'd never do another bore job w/o the plate on.

So the decks weak.

Couple that with your block missing more material, maybe it's more flimsy and that led to the gasket parting ways?

I'm still waiting on what Cometic says. If there is something that can be changed on the gasket for the engine, I'd sure like to see them do it. I'd volunteer a 35psi eating 6.5 for the project if they'd supply me with prototype gaskets. I'm just not going to pay to experiment.

J

[Robyn]

My gasket was .070" thick and had 5 or 6 layers that were riveted together in 4 places (stick out from under the head area..

The leak was definately between some of the layers.

The felpro gasket has the fire ring crimped over the core material with a solid edge to the compression.

The cometic gasket has just RAW thin stainless edges to the fire.

I am convinced that the combination of the lack of extreme clamping force plus the raw thin edges was the reason it failed.

Learned the other day that Cometic has/had been trying to sell the military on their gaskets.

Could not find any other info on that venture.

As a last resort on an otherwise "dead player" it was worth the try.

Back to Felpro 6.5 new design gaskets on a 6.2 for me.

Missy

[Robyn]

UPDATE
Sept 19th 2010

Finished stripping the Yellow block out this morning.
The bearings, crank, pistons and everthing else looks great in there.

The main webs around the inserts looks fine.

Got all the bearings tagged and bagged in the pairs they ran with.

A local fellow wants to buy the block, heads and pistons from the yellow engine plus a bit of other stuff too.

The plan is still to assemble a 6.2 block that I have here.

If the head gasket issue had not surfaced, the yellow engine would have been a real winner.

Later
Missy

[phantom309]

Arp studs? yes? no??

Nick

[Robyn]

UPDATE
September 23 rd 2010

309
Going to use Felpro replacement bolts.


Spoke with Todd at the "Little machine shop in the woods" :D yesterday afternoon and he tells me that the little 6.2 Block is a winner and that the decks cleaned easily at .012".

He was going to stroke the hone through the cylinders to break the glaze a bit, then tank the thing once more and then install the cam+ bearings.

Looks like I should have it back early next week.

Got a couple other deals on used Burb and Blazer parts going so a little bit of $$$$ will likely flow into my little Paws this weekend.

Ordered the gaskets for the short block yesterday too.

With a bit of luck, maybe I can get this thing back into the rig before the weather turns ugly.

Missy

[phantom309]

UPDATE
September 23 rd 2010

309
Going to use Felpro replacement bolts.


Missy

why??

nick

[Robyn]

No need for a basic stock engine with modest boost to spend the big dollars on the studs.

The TTY Bolts will do fine.

The only reason I would go with studs would be if I was going to Boost the thing to the moon.

The Felpro gaskets and the TTY bolts work well together in these applications.

With a 200K mile liftime as a fairly good normal on these, I dont see any good reason to spend all the extra $$$$$$$$$$$ on the specialty stuff.

Even an 6.2/6.5 thats beeing asked to give 100% on a continuous basis such as the HD Marine engines that peninsular offers, use the standard TTY bolts and the Felpro gaskets.

My little 6.2 Block has good clean decks now and I will be getting in a set of new heads so there will be aboslutely no reason to expect any issues in this area.

Probably break a crank or some other crap this time :eek:

NAAAAAAAAAAAAAAW just foolin :D

In all honesty, as much as I rag on some things, most of the stuff on the 6.2/6.5 "Basic engine" other than the tendency to crack is fairly good stuff.

Had GM made the original head gaskets just a tad better and made them as RH and LH to keep the coolant off the deck at the front of the block, the whole package would have been really good.

I am suspect that one of the reasons for the gasket and block errosion around the front two cylinders can be traced to the type of coolant used and the water it is mixed with.

Poorly maintained coolant can and does cause issues.

Now this said, many of us "INCLUDING ME" dump in some green concentrate and then add an equal amount of fresh water from the garden hose.

Yup its good O'l well water and WHO knows what all sorts of minerals are disolved in that stuff.

Jim (More Power) and I were discussing this topic the other day on the phone and both agree that the coolant could certainly be a factor in the life of the head gaskets and could also be a factor in block errosion.

Anyway

Back to the studs, I really dont see any need to toss the extra $$$$ at this project.

The past failure was due to a head gasket issue (Cometic) and nothing more.

The Felpro on the RH side was in perfect shape, just a bad decision on my part at the time.

Missy

[CleviteKid]

Distilled water from the grocery store is less than $1 per gallon, so all my vehicles get the pure H2O along with the Dexcool when a change is called for.

[Robyn]

Great plan for sure.

Missy

[ToddMeister]

Yep, I do this too.




Distilled water from the grocery store is less than $1 per gallon, so all my vehicles get the pure H2O along with the Dexcool when a change is called for.

[turbonator]

Sorry to hear about your motor Robin, especially the part about the Cometic gasket.

We have about 2500 miles on our motor now that we used the .066'' Cometic gaskets in. When we did the install, we used the ARP head studs (with ''O-rings)....but NOBODY at Cometic (talked to two in sales and one tech) ever mentioned that copper-coat was suggested to be used with their gaskets...LOL.

So far so good with our motor, at the start of the season we were running about 25psi boost at wot, during the summer we brought it down in increments with the fuel from IP to 20 psi at wot. The truck cruises along at about 8-9 psi boost. Like I said so far so good.

It is really a disappointment that Cometic never stepped up to shoulder at least part of the blame (maybe foot a part of the bill also).

We sure hope your new (wish it really was) motor comes together well and gives years of reliable service for you.

[Robyn]

Thanks for the kind words

I do hope your go round with the cometic gasket is better than mine was.

The concept of the MLS is a good one but my biggest worry was and still is, that fact that the single layers of the gasket all have a "RAW" edge right into the cumbustion area, making it real easy for gases to enter between the layers.

Current status on the replacement engine is, all is well finally.

Have a good 6.2 block on the stand with the crank and cam back in.

Its a 1990 block with the two piece rear main. Standard bore.

Took a while to sort out what I was going to do with the pistons.
I have two sets of brand new MIL pistons but, they are a tad too tight and I dont want to tear the engine back apart to hone it.

I sorted through two sets of used 6.2 pistons and have selected 8 from the lot that give me some clearances that make me comfortable.

Front two are about .0045 to .005 the middle 4 are at .0055 and the back two are at .0065

These numbers will work ok.

Would liked a little tighter but had a limited number of sizes to choose from.

Using the original rods from the "Yellow engine" plus a good 6.2 crank and then various other parts left from the "yellow engine"

The pan had to be replaced to fit the two piece rear main engine plus fit the chassis.

Most of the rest of the "Yellow engine" will go back on. DS4 pump, the injectors, rockers, Vc's and such.
Going to stuff on a set of Clearwater heads to top off this mess :rolleyes:

At present, just finally had the time to get all the pistons all sorted out and on their respective rods.

This weekend I hope to get the shorty back together. Just can't tell as time never seems to be in abundance.

Later

Missy

[john8662]

What ever did Cometic say when you sent them back the gasket?

I wanna know the cause of failure.

[Robyn]

Large amount of run around and excuses.

No really conclusive answers other than BS.

Talked with a few local shops/builders that have had the same issue.

These guys have subsequently abandoned all use of the Cometic gaskets in the 6.5


I decided at the time I went into this that it was a GAMBLE and that I was willing to give it a try rather than junk the block.

Well, we now know, it was a bad jump.

Such is life.

Nowm If I were doing it again all over, I could have used a +.010 gasket on that side and 4 pistons from Silvolite that had the pin height raised by .010

This would have given the thing a fairly closely matched comp ratio from side to side and we would have been off to the rodeo.

But now I am not interested in this sort of back yard engineering scheme.

I sold the .020 OS pistons and am not going to fool with the block again.

AT LEAST NOT NOW, never say never ya know.

A fresh set of .020 pistons with 4 at .010 down and the others at standard height would do it.

The ballance would not be perfect but close enough to fly.


Missy

[john8662]

I'd be intersted in their excuses and the BS. Do tell.

[Robyn]

The excuse was, "improper installation, improper torque, improper surface finish"

Well They told me to use the TTY bolts and torque to factory specs.

The surface finish on the heads and the block was per Cometics recommendations.


As I said, BS and more BS.

They have a product that is just not compatible with the 6.5 and thats about the long and short of it.

Missy

[john8662]

Well, I'm putting together an engine in the near future that I want to try the gaskets on. I will document surface finish, use their ARP BOLTS and procedure and see what happens. I have access to a profilometer to measure the finish in Ra. They want 50 Ra or better.

I will likely make an agreement with them on these results.

[Robyn]

Go for it and keep us all posted.

A good bet that this failure issue is why GM stayed with the Felpro gasket. So did Peninsular and most other builders.

Will be interested to see how it shakes out.

Missy

[phantom309]

i got a gasket set of ebay,. military gaskets supposedly,. head gaskets look very good,.

Nick

[AllThumbs]

Robyn, did the Hooooley get shoved under the roof? We haven't heard a thing since early this month. Don't keep us in suspense.

[Robyn]

DaHoooley is in a state of suspended animation :eek:

Got a good set of pistons all measured up and matched to the rods/cylinders.

Been busy with fixing the damned roof and a few other things.

Still waiting to get my winters truck load of nut shells for the pellet stoves.

Hope to get back onto the short block soon. Still need to buy a set of heads too.

The weather is so inclement right now (till spring) too that any work outside is just not gonna happen.


Best

Missy