View Full Version : Replacing injectors on 02 LB7
willydmax
08-19-2010, 09:18
Just have a question here on the injector sleeves. I am in the process of replacing all the injectors on my dad's 02 LB7 and was wondering if I need to worry about resealing the injector sleeves as long as the injectors come out nice and easy? I started on the pass. side and so far 3 of the injectors came out easy and then number 7 came out hard along with the sleeve. By the way I wouldn't want to try the injector replacement without the nice article and pictures provided by the Diesel Page! A little history: this truck has had all the injectors replaced under warranty(about 60000 miles ago), it has 159000 miles on the clock now.
More Power
08-19-2010, 10:48
Welcome to the board!
Resealing them all may provide the most confidence that a cooling system overpressure problem won't develop in the future. I know that most dealer techs don't do this.
I've been told that some techs use a large pair of channel-lock pliers to twist the injector as it is pulled upward. This (I'm told) helps to prevent the Loc-Tite seal at the small end of the cup from leaking. I'm inclined to suggest re-doing all of the cup seals at the time of injector replacement. I'll discuss this in more detail as I get into my own project before long. ;)
Jim
willydmax
08-19-2010, 11:30
Thanks for the reply! My problem is I don't have a sleeve puller and I am somewhat limited on time but maybe as I progress on this project I may be forced to reseal them all. Depends on how many more pull out with the injectors. I could not seem to remove the sleeve from the injector so I bought a new sleeve. It seems like the kind of job that has plenty of variables to it. Not just the kind of thing where you know exactly what parts you will need and so on.
willydmax
08-20-2010, 09:33
I have a problem on my injector job.... Would anyone know the part number for the copper seals on the banjo fittings on the fuel pump? I "ordered" them from the dealer and they are not the right ones.
More Power
08-20-2010, 10:08
When there is some confusion about part numbers or a question about whether the dealer parts guy will get the right part, I ask that they call up the illustrated parts break-down on their computer for the assembly I'm interested in, then point to the part I need on the screen.
Otherwise, you might be able to get what you need from an aftermarket vendor (kennedydiesel.com, usdieselparts.com, bd-power.com, etc.).
Jim
Lee,
Just wanted to let you know that I have tried to reply to your emails, but get an error message. I believe it was invalid email address.
willydmax
08-21-2010, 10:12
John,
Sorry about that! Here is the correct one. leewoodenterprise -at- gmail.com
Back to my injector job... All of the injectors except one were very black and carboned up, #8 came out kinda hard with the o-ring torn and was a very orange color. Is that a sign of something wrong? The drivers side is definitely a pain compared to the passenger side! One tool that I would really recommend is a cordless impact driver for taking out as many of the allen bolts as possible. It provides the needed shock to break them loose without stripping the heads and is not as overpowering as a regular impact wrench. Another item that worked really well is a small powerful vacuum to suck any dirt away from the top part of the head to keep it from falling in and also worked well for sucking any carbon and junk out of the injector sleeves. I am in the process of installing the remaining injectors on the drivers side and hope to finish today if all goes well:rolleyes: Thanks for the reply on my copper seals question Jim! I could not locate a new one so I put the old back in and we will see if it leaks:(
willydmax
08-23-2010, 07:12
Another couple questions...Is there anything in particular that I need to do or know when putting the coolant back in the truck? A special procedure? I am changing the thermostats while I have it tore down. Also when I start it the first time is there any particular method other than bleeding both filters and firing it up?
More Power
08-23-2010, 10:50
There's an airbleed screw on top of the thermostat housing that you should use to let most of the trapped air out of the cooling system. You will likely need to check/top-off the cooling system a couple more times, as the remainder of the trapped air works its way out over the following few days.
Dex-Cool is available in gallon jugs using an 50/50 mix or you can buy the 100% stuff and mix it yourself using distilled or de-ionized water. The cooling system holds about 6 gallons in total - when completely dry, but there'll be some still in the system.
Replace the coolant surge tank cap if you haven't already...
Bleed the air out of the fuel filter, like you do during a routine filter service. Then crank the engine in 20 second intervals, allowing a 3 minute starter cool-down period between cranking sessions. My guess is that it'll take a couple cranking sessions.
Jim
willydmax
08-25-2010, 15:35
Thanks for all the help! The truck is running with no issues whatsoever. I ended up replacing all 8 injectors from Kennedy Diesel, 1 new sleeve on #7, new high pressure lines, new copper seals on the return lines and the thermostats.
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