replaced Tie Rods and now @#$!^$%

[94bluehd]

I replaced both tie rods and now it is toed in so bad I can't even get it down to the alignment shop. I counted the threads on the old ones and put the new ones on at the same threadcount but they are so far off, I can't drive it. How could this be so different????They parts are the same.

[convert2diesel]

If at all possible, I first measure the total width, grease nipple to grease nipple before you take the old ones off. If the two parts are identical, and you didn't some how move the adjusting sleeve, the thread thing works. The only time this has worked for me was when I was using OEM parts. The aftermarket can get a little wonky at times.

Your FSM should show you the toe in. You can adjust this with the truck sitting level on two pieces of plywood under each tire (about 18 inches square and grease between the sheets). Lock the steering wheel dead center and do equal turns on both tie rods until the measurements are on. This method will at least get you in the ball park enough to get it over to the alignment shop, or at least driveable till you can get over there.

Good luck

Bill

[trbankii]

When I replaced tie-rod ends, pitman arm, etc I just centered the steering wheel and then sighted down the sides of the truck and adjusted until the tires were fairly parallel with the body. Worked pretty good because the shop said I was nearly dead on.

[Kennedy]

Tape measure toe adjust until you canget it aligned. Be sure to adjust them evenly.

[JohnC]

Roll the truck forward on a gravel driveway. If it pushes the stones out, toe out. If it pushes them in, toe in. When it doesn't push them either way it's good enough to drive.

[94bluehd]

Thanks everyone! I pretty much did all that and got it really close according to the mechanic. Although we then discovered the ball joints are getting bad?!@#! I replaced them 50k ago!

[Pelado]

Thanks everyone! I pretty much did all that and got it really close according to the mechanic. Although we then discovered the ball joints are getting bad?!@#! I replaced them 50k ago!

Remember to use OEM joint or at least moog, no cheapo stuff if you want them to last.
Raybestos has a service grade (junk grade) and a professional grade ball joint that cost three times the junk grade ones.
You get what you paid for, it's not possible that something costs 1/3 the value and maintain quality and durability. Someplace corners had to be cut to get the price down there.
It cost 1/3 they last 1/3

[94bluehd]

They were MOOG! They still went bad. I have have been asking around and numerous folks here (western MT) go through this. My neighbor got only 26k on his. Everyone thinks it is the de-icer applied to the roads in the winter time that degrades the grease and ultimately the joints. I went back to OEM this time and we will see.:rolleyes: