Pull the other head?

[bmiszuk]

Last year I pulled the left head to fix an oil leak (see
http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/showthread.php?t=33902). Well, one thing led to another and I never got around to putting it back together again. The head has been sitting in the garage gathering dust. The Suburban has been sitting in the shed gathering dust and mice.

Now it's time to put it all back together.

Here's the question: do I pull the passenger side head and replace that gasket while I have everything apart, or do I just replace the left head gasket and put it all back together again?

It'll be nice to have the diesel running again...

[DmaxMaverick]

I suggest doing the other head. You are in it this far. It will never be as easy (and less expensive) as it is now, and time is obviously not a factor. If you don't, you may wish you had.

[Robyn]

I agree 100%

Takes very little time at this point to get that other head off.

The gaskets on these engines have a very predictable life span.

If one has left for greener pastures, the other one is close to doing the same thing.

Keep us posted

Robyn

[bmiszuk]

That sounds like good advice. I'll pull the other head and replace that gasket too. I'm ashamed to say the head I pulled months ago has been sitting in the outbuilding and is covered in dust, including the injectors. I'm afraid there's dirt inside the head's passages and just using brake cleaner and rags, I'll not be able to clean inside the head. What's the best way to clean it? Do I need to take it to a machine shop?

[jerry598]

I think I would take it to the machine shop and have them clean it up and inspect for cracks and straightness, etc. Some people say magnaflux too, and touch up the valves. Check for cracks in the precups. They always have them but they should not extend beyond the fire ring. If needed, there is a procedure to sleeve the coolant passages to prevent and repair any cracks. If cracks are found there they can be repaired that way. I used new Clearwater cylinder heads on my rebuild at $325 each delivered to the door - but I think I could have reused by old heads and maybe saved some $.

[Robyn]

Unless there are issues with the valves and or the head (deck surface) is damaged, taking the heads to the machine shop is not really a must do.

Pull the valves and springs and various shims (they all have a steel shim next to the head) keep all the parts in order.

I mark the heads and then bag each valve and assembly in a zip lock baggy.

With this done you can hot wash the heads the go from there.

Clean out the ports and get all the carbon out (there will be plenty)

Use an auto body sanding board that will span the width of the heads and clean the heads up using some 120 grit paper on the board.

Just dust them off (after scraping off all the old gasket)

Now you can inspect the heads well.

The 6.2 engines are not as prone to cracks between the valves, but they do get them at times.

The precups can have cracks from the ports as mentioned and as long as they dont cross the fire ring area they are ok to use.

Now if you find any that are close, I would replace them.

All the precups need to be the same (same markings or port size)
DO NOT mix them.

One at a time clean the valves up as well as the other parts (dont mix up the parts)

If the valves and seats look good, install new seals and reassemble.

If the seats or valves are in poor shape then the shop is the place to go.

As mentioned, crackes between the valves can be repaired with bronze valve guide pressed into the coolant passage after reaming it out.

There is an article here at TDP on this subject.


Good luck and keep us posted


Missy.