A/C Woes

[Truckie117]

Just pulled the orifice tube from condenser and it looks like I might need a new compressor.
That's the only place I can see that black gunk that clogged up the orifice could come from.
Flush and new dryer too.
Zoom out on Pic to see better.
Any other thoughts?

[Robyn]

Generally the junk that comes from a compressor thats eating itself is METAL :eek:

Black stuff could be from the inside of a hose or possibly from the swash plate in the compressor.

I have never seen that much non metal stuff from one of these systems.

While you have it apart unhook and check the hoses for shedding internally.

If ok then new O rings, compressor, flush the evap and cond, replace the accumulator can, add proper amount and type of oil, suck it to 29"hg for 30 minutes and charge.

Pour the oil into the accumulator suction hose port before you hook it to the piping.

Charge it and get cool.


Missy

[Truckie117]

Thanks Missy
That's what it looked like to me no metal soft rubber like I plan to replace the hose from the compressor since the valve was constantly leaking. would you recomend pulling the rear expansion valve to and flushing the rear ?
Thanks

[rustyk]

That also could have come from not using the correct oil for R134a.

[Truckie117]

I always used the right oil if any maybe the compressor is just old

[Truckie117]

Anyone know the proper part # for the A/C compressor hose the ones I see online don't look like the original. They say front and rear did some of these not come with rear A/C?
Thanks

[Truckie117]

Hi I found the A/C compressor hose made by Universal Air Conditioning Inc. HA10641 any one know who sells these parts?
They have a web site uacparts.com
Thanks
Mike

[kaylabryn]

Either go with one from GM or a quality replacement. Carefull most are Chinese and will not last. I buy many parts from www.ackits.com I also like the paralle flow condensors, but there is extra work involved adding those. Yes you need to replace the rear expansion valve and flush the evaporator. Some burbans did not have rear A/C. There is also a good forum attached to ackits website, the guys on there are very informative much like this forum only for A/C.

Mike

[Truckie117]

Thanks
I got a new compressor Condensor Dryer and orifice tube new rear expansion valve. All new O rings and new compressor manifold from newgmparts.com great price fast shipping. Also OEMPartsGarage.com same people.
Just have to vac it down tomorrow and see how I did putting it back together. Then add 134A to check out the COLD!
Mike

[kaylabryn]

Make sure you flush it well also, you can use IPA or something of the sort that leaves little to no residue.

MIke

[JohnC]

Doesn't anyone make hoses any more?


you can use IPA or something


Personally, for this application I prefer a good ESB over an IPA... ;)

[racer55]

Doesn't anyone make hoses any more?




Personally, for this application I prefer a good ESB over an IPA... ;)

could you please expand those acronyms,esb? ipa?

[JohnC]

could you please expand those acronyms,esb? ipa?
Sure!


Make sure you flush it well also, you can use IPA or something of the sort that leaves little to no residue.

MIke

In Mike's post, IPA means IsoPropyl Alcohol



Personally, for this application I prefer a good ESB over an IPA... ;)

In my post ESB means Extra Special Bitters and IPA means India Pale Ale...

[racer55]

Thankyou very much.
I can see where isopropayl alcohol would work well.
So you are saying to flush the ac system with beer?
Thats a new one for me but any tip that works well is one to keep in my memory.

[JohnC]

So you are saying to flush the ac system with beer?


OK, on the off chance you are serious, no, use ale.

(Just kidding.... Don't use beer or ale; either will leave a sticky residue...)

Isopropyl Alcohol is the right answer.

[racer55]

K thanx you never know until you ask directly.

[kaylabryn]

To add to that you want to get the highest % you can. We have 99.99% here at work which is quite expensive for this type of task but if you can get 92-95% would work nicely. Kind of like proof the higher the better. It also evaporates quicker. Another trick someone taught me is when flushing put your finger over the end of the tube or hose, pressurize with air then release your finger this creates high to low pressure. This helps dislodge and flush more out of the system.

Mike

[Truckie117]

Ok I just had my truck inspected and mech says my air gap on new compressor is no good got home and checked pressure and no high side and 70 low temp here 77F.
Could new compressor gone bad? when I turn off ac the clutch rubbs a small amount.
when I turn on ac the drier gets cold and so does the suction line up to the compressor.
what gives

[kaylabryn]

Air gap is fixable. Do you have gauges hooked up if so post pressures high and low. I had a set of junk gauges once that would not push the Schrader valve so it would not register pressure. You can check to see if there is pressure by quickly pushing the valve with the tip of a screw driver, if gas comes out you have pressure and should register something on the gauges. Check air gap with feeler gauges, if it is too tight you need the tool that removes the clutch. It threads into the clutch and a pin pushes through and presses on the compressor shaft. You want to press just enough to get the correct gap. I don't remember the spec of hand I will look for it. Used to be able to rent these at Check AutoZone ect. for free if not you can buy them at Napa. If anything is getting cold then you have gas in the system and you have a pressure differential somewhere hopefully at the orifice. Are you getting cold just past the orifice tube location? Temperature should be night and day before and after the orifice.

Mike

[Truckie117]

The system has new condenser new drier new orifice new Expansion valve in rear ac new manifold hose and brand new delphi compressor. the suction gets cold up to the compressor.
the pressure line out of the condenser is cold after the expansion valve.
I think the compressor got dropped on delivery and may have bent the clutch.
I weighed the 134 going in and added 11oz of oil some to the compressor and the rest to the drier i turned the compressor to cycle the oil by hand.
what cold have gone wrong.
I also used a commercial flush and then blew the system out piece by piece with dried filtered air.
Thanks
Mike

[Truckie117]

OK went out tonight ambient temp 71F Low side went to 30 high 135 center vent 48F medium fan speed 600Rpm
1500 Rpm 45-44F
Shut down low side 59 high side 40

Engine at idle 600Rpm ambient temp 73F
start ac low goes to 35 high 195 center vent at 52.2
1500 Rpm 48F
when you disengage A/C the clutch rubs sometimes what causes this?

[racer55]

When I used to do a lot of A/C work on older vehicles anytime I could get a 20 degree difference between ambient and the inside vents it was all that could be asked for.
That was in the R-12 days though on systems that had been properly evacuated and the measured charge added.

When the powers that be introduced a $50,000 fine to the shop and another $10,000 fine to the tech if a leak was detected upon a search from a customer complaint I bailed out of A/C work in a hurry.
Most of my A/C knowlege is either extinct now or forgotten so I cant add much more.

[Truckie117]

HAHA the powers that be! You mean the Empowered Pains in the Ass.
Gov just gets in the way of business!

[racer55]

Since I am in Canada it might not be the EPA but the result is the same.
Its been so long since I checked up on the A/C scene the rules might have changed but at the time the risk was too much for me to stick with it.