Need Help removing front hubs

[JTodd]

I ABSOLUTELY CAN NOT GET THE HUB OFF OF THE TRUCK! The axle shaft is loose from the hub, but the hub will not budge. Removed all four bolts, soaked everything in PB Blaster, but nothing. Read a post about backing bolts out 1/2 inch and hammering to loosen - nothing except flattening the heads. Is there a puller or something that will pull this apart? I need advise soon, as I have now rendered my truck undrivable.

[rjschoolcraft]

If you have the four bolts out that secure the hub to the knuckle, it should come off. The four bolts have 15 mm hex heads and go in from the back side of the knuckle. GM does show a puller, but I have never needed one to get mine off. Try working a pry bar between the rotor and the knuckle.

I'm not too far from you, maybe I could give you some assistance?

[JoeyD]

Are you changing the hubs and rotors? They come off, it just takes time and a BFH. I just did rotors on my truck and they were hard coming off, 2nd time and I use anti sieze. Keep hitting them.

[CareyWeber]

Can you get to the anti lock brake sensor with out removing the rotors?

[JTodd]

I rounded one of the bolts, so I decided to use it to help 'push'. I ground the threads off of most of it, leaving about 3/4 inch at the non-head end. It appears that the backing plate is also threaded, so this should alleviate possible pounding against the backing plate instead of hub. It took me a while to track down the hub bolts on New Year's Eve, so I will get back to it in the morning after I find the bigger hammer. I will post the results.

[David_Jennings]

I just did this. I tried to find a way to use a slide hammer, but I could not fit anything across the studs. If you can get something to fit, a slide-hammer is the way to go. In not, first make certain all bolts are out. Second, be sure the axle is free. Third, apply force liberally to everything but the rotors. Do not touch the rotors. Mine ultimately succumbed to a a beating with a sledge hammer. No art at all; just force. Just wait until you try to replace the studs in the hub! Save yourself some time and go to a shop or garage and have them pressed in.

[rjschoolcraft]

Replacing the studs is easy... Use washers with grease between them. Search this forum...this has been discussed many times. Using common sense, a pry bar between the rotor and the knuckle works. Common sense is the key.

[JTodd]

Finally out! I ended up using a large pry bar, working one side, then the other. Fortunately, I was changing the rotors, which was the reason for the work, so I did not worry about damaging them. If I were trying to save the rotor, I don

[rjschoolcraft]

I broke two 15 mm sockets the first time that I tried to remove the hub flange bolts. I ended up buying a heavy duty 1/2" drive 15 mm socket. That, coupled with a breakover bar, has done the trick ever since. Once you've had those hubs off, they won't be so hard the next time. I've never had to do anything but bump mine with a rubber mallet and they fall right off.

You're welcome. I'm glad that things worked out for you.

[DeereJohn]

I'll pass on the trick I use to help loosen rotors. With the weight of the truck on a floor jack, I put a hardwood block under the bottom of the rotor. I then let about 3/4 of the weight of the truck onto the block. Tighten the floor jack and put a jack stand under the frame too for safety.

That gives about 1,200 pound to bear on the problem. At this point, a few stiff whacks with my favourite hammer, and the rotor gives up its grip.

Guaranteed to work. Just be safe, because the truck will want to drop a bit when the rotor comes free.

[JoeyD]

I think you rounded the heads off from using a 12pt socket. You should use a 6 pt socket when ever you can. I like the impact style when you need max force

[JTodd]

I agree with using a 6-pt instead of 12, but I actually stripped a hardened bolt extractor! It had been used a couple times before, but I was still surprised. That is one stuck bolt.

[additive]

This post could not have been more timely. I finally got one side off. It is amazing what a $5.00 pry bar from Harbor Freight tools can do for you. After pounding on the rotor repeatedly, I did the pry bar thing and worked it off. Just pushed on the top and then the bottom and slowly it came off. While at harbor freight, I picked up a 15mm impact socket for the other side's 4 bolts. BTW, I also picked up the 36mm socket at another tool place similiar to harbor freight for about 7.00.

Additive

[JTodd]

To update: I replaced the driver's side hub - what a difference. That thing was responsible for a considerable amount of what I thought was road noise. I did have problems removing the hub a second time, although not as much as the first. Seperated by only about 4 weeks, and it was stuck again. I think when I do the other side I am going to use some anti-seize.

I bought the rotor from AutoZone - $270 shipped. Looks good, fit right, but now I have an ABS indicator light on, so I may need to go back. Does it matter if the ABS sensor is at the 9:00 position or must it be at the 12:00 position? Because of the high cost of the hub, I will try to inject grease into the other, still good one.

[Dimsdale]

If you plan to do this semi frequently, there is a tool you could invest in: a 4WD Hub Puller.

I found it on the web and it seems to be specifically designed for this very task. I am not putting the vendor down due to forum rules, although I have yet to see one of the advertisers selling one. OTC is the toolmaker, like Kent Moore etc., not a store name.

OTC 6290
Front Hub Puller for 4WD Vehicles
Order# OTC6290


$123.93 List Price
$71.52 On Sale!

[moondoggie]

Good Day!

Have you used this tool yourself? It looks like it would push the axle out of the hub if it was stuck, but I can't see how this would get the hub out of the steering knuckle.

Blessings!

Brian Johnson

[Dimsdale]

To be honest, no I haven't.

It is made by SPX/OTC, right here in the USA, vs. some low budget Asian concern, so it can't be too Mickey Mouse in it's construction or application.

It can be found in the SPX/OTC catalogue as tool # 6290, but there are no instructions.

http://www.otctools.com/newcatalog/detail.php3?id=43

The only reason I was looking for it was that so many had complained about the hassles encountered when trying to get new rotors onto these front ends.

There is another type by OTC that utilizes a slide hammer (OTC7901).

It anyone knows which is better, or how to use the first type to avoid the problems by Brian above, it would be greatly appreciated!

[moondoggie]

Good Day!

"OTC7901": Are you sure that's a good number? I searched OTC's website & couldn't find it.

I'd like to see it - if it's what the description you gave is, it looks like (once again) my great idea for a DP article has been around for years, invented by someone else. :(

Blessings!

Brian Johnson, # 5044