1st start up: smokey, rough, no power

[argo]

I finished the transplant of a 6.2L diesel into a 1993 Suburban (see signature) yesterday. Got it started (fired up first turn of the key), but it is blowing alot of white smoke, it idles rough, and has no power, and it also breaks up with heavier throttle angles or higher engine speeds. It is not blowing any bubbles in the coolant, it isn't blowing out of the oil fill tube, and there are no leaks. I have checked for fuel delivery (I am using an electric pump) and I have plenty of fuel.The history of this engine is as follows: I pulled it from an 84 Suburban with 90,000 miles on it two years ago. I opened it up and checked it's internal condition and there were cracks in the mains. I found a low mileage block with no cracks, and transferred all the internals from the 84 suburban engine to this block. I checked all the clearances and everything was perfect. I also installed a main girdle to prevent any future cracking. The engine from the 84 Suburban ran good before I pulled it. Now that it is all together again, it is running as described. I think it is retarded timing, although the IP is lined up to the dash mark. However, before I go messing with it (and because I need a break from it) I wanted to get some second opinions from you guys first. I had it running up to full operating temperature and ran it for abut an hour, with no improvement, and I test drove it but I didn't want to hurt anything, so I didn't push it over 30 MPH. I know that on gas engines, retarded timing can cause overheating and excessive EGT, and I was worried that might be true for diesels as well. It did seem to warm up awfully fast for a diesel with just idling, but the temperature never went over 210 degrees, and then, it was usually at 200, but it came up to temperature as fast as a gas engine, which further reinforces my belief that the timing is retarded. I know that the IP or injectors could be at fault too, but they did work fine 2 years ago, and I took great pains to keep them clean and protected from the elements. I capped the lines and the injectors immediately upon removal, and after they were out, I installed the injectors back to their lines and put the entire "spider" (lines, injectors, and pump) into a black trashbag, and then into a box, and then put the entire assembly on a shelf in my garage. Is it possible that sitting for two years could have caused this? Also, given the way it runs, how far should I advance the timing? I have a Snap-On luminosity probe timing meter, but I know that I need to get it running somewhat reliably before I can use it.

[JohnC]

Hard to say without being there, but I think I'd advance the timing 1/16" (at the marks) and see if it makes an improvement.

[argo]

Hard to say without being there, but I think I'd advance the timing 1/16" (at the marks) and see if it makes an improvement.

I will do that when I get back to the shop. As an update, this morning I got it running and warmed up, and then I jumped the HPCA solenoid to power, and instantly the engine ran better. Still not great, but better. It smoothed out considerably and was not nearly as rough, and the volume of white smoke went down a good bit too. Is it possible that I might be one tooth off on the
I/P gear? I'd hate to think that were so, because I was sure I put the marks together perfectly.

[argo]

Okay, I double checked the line routing on the engine, and all the lines were hooked up in the proper sequence. I then advanced the pump a nickel's width, and it ran a little better. I advanced it another nickel, and the white/gray smoke diminished further, and the engine ran smoother. I advanced it another nickel and the smoking stopped at idle, and it has just a slight grayish smoke on acceleration. It still seems a bit sluggish, but it is considerably better. However, if I run it up to full governed rpm, it still billows grayish white smoke (it wouldn't make it to full governed RPM before today). Also, it took a significantly longer to reach full operating temperature than before. In summary, I think it is good enough that I can hook up my Snap On timing meter and set the timing better now that it is runnable. Thanks so much for the help and advice!

[argo]

I advanced the timing as stated previously, and pretty much maxed out the adjustment, and although better, it was still retarded. So I pulled the cover to check the I/P drive gear, and what did I find? It was dot to dot! I also discovered that when I was dot to dot, the balancer was reading 6*ATDC! I rotated the engine back and then through to 0* at the balancer, and found the IP about 1 tooth behind dot to dot alignment. This is a NEW timing chain and sprocket set. I decided to try advancing the gear on the I/P one tooth, reset the IP timing marts to line up the factory marks and I put the cover on with 4 bolts to hold the spring loaded button on the I/P in place, and fired it up for about 10 seconds to see what it was like, and the engine ran like a million bucks. A single puff or white smoke followed by clean exhaust on a dead cold engine. Almost no white smoke on a throttle pedal jab, and a smooth, shake free idle. The accelerator response was crisp, and it sounded (finally) like a 6.2L J code engine should (from the many I have heard in the past). I intend to use the snap on luminosity probe timing gauge on it. Does 2* ATDC sound good? The 6.2L manual I have doesn't specify a luminosity spec, but I know that the International 6.9L/7.3L IDI engines run that spec. I know they are different, but if I recall correctly, the 5.7L runs 2.5*, so it shows me a general ballpark idea, I assume? Also, do I set the meter to A or B and what cylinder do I use on this engine?