Newbie questions just pulled turbo at auto recycler

[Mike_Kendall]

Hello all,
I recently purchased a surplus M1009 that was used to film a couple scenes in the George Clooney movie "The Men Who Stare At Goats". I like it so much that I purchased two more from govliquidation.com and waiting for the EUC paperwork to clear.
I have spent over 1 month already working every day fixing this one up. I love the diesel engine, it is my first diesel and the primary reason I bought it!
Today I finished pulling a turbo at the local auto recycler yard. The donor vehicle was a 6.2L Chevy extended cab dually pickup that is 80s style and had 84' written on the window. It is definitely a stock turbo with cast iron exhaust manifolds and some other cast iron parts. The air intake box portion was missing on it. It does not appear to have a waste gate. If there were an EGT guage and boost guage they were missing in the cab. The part number on the turbo is A/R85 ROTO-MASTER HI-FLO. On the driver's side exhaust manifold is the part number GM 14022867 LH5. It has a mix of metric and standard nuts/bolts. Some questions:
1) I was told that this would be a Banks system but don't see Banks written anywhere. Not sure about a ROTO-MASTER HI-FLO. Can anyone tell me more about it. I was told the Banks system for this year would not have a waste gate.
2) Will I need to pull the oil pan as it had a welded connector to it for an oil line from the turbo?
3) Will I need to pull the air intake from the donor vehicle? It has a unusual threaded hole of large diameter going into the side of it.
4) Will I take a chance of destroying my engine if I put this in my 6.2L without a waste gate? I have a source for a used Banks boost pressure guage and Banks EGT guage for 90 dollars for the pair. It appears there is a sensor for the EGT screwed into one of the exhaust manifolds that I can run into the guage. Will this Banks guage be a universal fit to the existing sensor?
5) There is a hose going into the side of the donor block from the turbo. Will I have to get machine work done on my existing block to accept the oil hose into it or is there another way to do this?
6) At the very least I was told the manifolds are valuable. If the turbo is shot I will soon find out. I plan on replacing the head gaskets with Felpro during this job. I am considering the replacement of the glow plugs at the same time as it appears that much on the block will become innacessible after installing the turbo. The manifold bolts on the passenger side took a 5/16" allen wrench and some were already loose. I don't think the owner could get to them to re-tighten them again because the turbo was in the way. I could not see the gasket material between the block and the manifold anymore. The bolts on the driver's side were regular bolts. I recovered the exhaust tubing and flanges so that I can reconstruct that portion. I will have to make an intake box from scratch. Not sure what that threaded big hole was on the side of the intake manifold and if that was for a boost pressure sensor. It seemed to be about 3/4" in diameter.
Any help would be a really really big help. My email is michael.kendall@ymail.com. I am willing to upgrade the turbo as necessary to get a working system but want to/need to save money and would prefer to do all of the work myself when possible. I'm guessing that the origional turbo maybe only added an extra 20 horses or so and that is possibly why the waste gate was not needed? I really don't know what else I'll need to do to the engine. I also have a propane injection kit coming in the mail. I am thinking to tap off the existing propane bottles on my used 22ft camper trailer when towing and bidding on a M101A2 trailer. I have a 33.5lb aluminum forklift type bottle coming and just received a mount for it that has 2 straps and very very heavy duty. I'm thinking to put that on the front of my surplus M101A2 trailer when I get one with a 12V solenoid shut off on both the 22ft trailer and the M101A2 that will shut off the propane supply when the 12v is not present. I can also mount the bottle inside the rear of the vehicle where the mount for the 5 gallon gas can is in the rear of the vehicle and use only when I need the extra capacity only. I agree this will be a great way to extend my mileage range and compliment the turbo when towing.
Advanced thanks to all for all the help.
Mike

[jmac5058]

Sorry cant help you but sounds like a great project.How many people have a Chuck-Vee,I never heard of one till your post,a 3/4 ton solid front axle deisel Blazer sounds like the ultimate snowplow rig.Good luck.

[john8662]

Post a picture of the exhaust manifold that the turbo mounts to and I can tell you what setup it is.

I've had them all and can help with the install/use of.

J

[Mike_Kendall]

John,
I made some calls this morning to roto-master in Canada. They asked me for a nameplate which there isn't one on this turbo. There was a serial number type stamping of 104857. Curtis at roto-master then said it is a "ray jay", not sure of the spelling, and that area diesel is the only people that handle this. I called Greg (awesome guy) at area diesel who explained that I have a couple of options.
1) Leave it alone. If it is worn out the rubbing could be catastrophic.
2) Get it inspected and rebuilt at 200-300 dollars. The ray jay roto-master he explained does not have a very high flow rate.
3) Turn it in as a 60 dollar core charge and get one of their rebuilt units that have higher flow rates and will match the bolt pattern. It will be an essentially new turbo with a housing that they manufacture is my understanding. Rebuilt unit after core turn-in would be $512.
I will go to the auto recycler today or tomorrow and pull the oil pan for $20 that has the welded fitting to accept the oil return line. Is there anything else in the oil pan that needs to come out? I'm assuming not. I will also pull the intake manifold if needed. I'm assuming that I need to pull that so I won't have to drill/tap into my existing manifold. The manifold on the turbodiesel 6.2 is aluminum and looks to be a little bit higher than stock but I've not verified that. I hope that the airflow is as good or better than my existing J series intake manifold. You would be able to tell me I'm sure if I even need to pull it and if it will be better than the stock one on my J series 6.2.
I really really like the stainless exhaust piping on the sidewinder from Banks. I'm going to call them and ask if I can buy and how much for the exhaust tubing. I'm unsure if it will be a direct bolt on. My thinking is that if I ever have to dis-assemble the system to get to a hard place for work it will pay to have stainless. Thanks again John! I will keep you updated as this project progresses.
Mike

[Mike_Kendall]

I just called Banks and asked them some questions.
-The EGT sensor is a 1/4" NPT fitting and the sensor is generic for all of their guages. I will try to connect the existing sensor to the used Banks guages this guy will sell me (boost and EGT both for $90). I was told the boost guage takes a pressure hose from the fitting on the air intake to the guage in similar fashion that a vacuum guage would work on a gas engine.
-They said to buy the air intake box, hose, and filter will cost $574 if I purchase it. I will obviously have to manufacture my own. My only big question on that is to find out how to get a good seal between the homebrewed aluminum or steel air box and the intake manifold. Any guidance on that would be a big help. I can get the box fabricated and will have to find a source for some air hose between the box and the tubo.
-the crossover pipe on the banks system was describe to me as going under the engine in the rear of the oil pan. The system that I just pulled has a crossover pipe on the front of the engine that goes under the pulleys. The driver side exhaust manifold is cast iron and exists towards the front of the vehicle the same as the passenger side.
Mike

[john8662]

You need to put the horse before the cart...

Let's figure out what setup you have then work from there.

This Rayjay turbo means absolutely nothing, zero, zip nada. None of the aftermarket setups offered for the 6.2 made their own turbocharger itself. They casted an exhaust manifold, made intake provisions, air boxes, oil drain, oil feed etc. They all purchased the turbocharger assembly in their own specifications from companies like Rayjay, Garrett, Borg Warner. The turbo form factor was a T04B with either a T3 or T4 footprint.

Shoot us a picture of the exhaust manifold that the turbo mounts to and I'll know what parts you should have.

There were three options for the 6.2, and variances from year to year. Banks, ATS, BAE were the three. Banks and ATS had two different setups depending on year model and body style.

Hope this helps.

[JohnC]

...get one of their rebuilt units that have higher flow rates...

If you don't have a wastegate, you need to be real careful about increasing the capacity of the blower...