2001 LB7 Stalls

[thebigtoto34]

I have a 2001 silverado. When i am driving it will suddenly die and the battery light will start flashing. It will start back up right away after. It does this on me about once a day. The battery light stays on when i am starting and goes away. The only code i am getting is the P0380-Glow Plug/Heater Circuit "A" Malfunction. Does this code cause the battery light to stay on? Could any of this cause the truck to stall when driving? I am going to check plugs and relay tomorrow. Any help would be greatly appreciated. This is my first diesel too :-) And injectors were replaced last year. Thanks!

[Mark Rinker]

Welcome aboard!

How old are your batteries? I think the code you are seeing, and the problem are two different animals.

Might want to have both of them load tested. For what its worth, I am a big fan of the OEM Delco replacements, always purchased in pairs. (i.e. You'll usually be throwing away one 'junk' battery, and one that still tests good.)

[DmaxMaverick]

I agree with mark. Check batteries and connections first. Low voltage, voltage spikes, and fluctuations can cause a computer reboot. One or both bad batteries and/or poor connections can cause this, and is not uncommon on older trucks. The electrical system is fairly forgiving, but is very sensitive once outside the acceptable range. It could also be a failing alternator, but address the other possibilities, first.

The P0380 is probably one or more glow plugs that have failed. No biggie, it's just letting you know. It could also be the GP or intake heater relay that's failed, but once again, no biggie. A simple read of the glow plug voltage at start with a scanner will tell the whole story. If it starts well during a cold start, you can address this at your convenience. It will not cause the stall issue, and will not cause any damage (the EPA won't like it, though). At most, it can cause a difficult, rough, and/or smoky cold start (below freezing).

[thebigtoto34]

Ok, so just clean the connections and get the batteries tested? My voltage on my gauge says its right at 14V when im driving. But i will go get the batteries tested now. Thanks guys, O, and i kinda thought it might of been the alternator failing so i went ahead and priced them and the dealer wants 450 bucks for an ac-delco :eek:. I called my local o reillys and they have an ultima one for 189 with a lifetime warranty or napa has a Ray one for 179 with a lifetime warranty. Any suggestions?

[DmaxMaverick]

If you need an alternator, check out www.alternatorparts.com. They offer US made replacements (new and reman) at a price comparable to part store (questionable) remans. Or, upgrade to a higher output for a little more. Good stuff (I use them). The owner/builder answers his own phone.

[Heartbeat Hauler]

Ok, so just clean the connections and get the batteries tested? My voltage on my gauge says its right at 14V when im driving. But i will go get the batteries tested now. Thanks guys, O, and i kinda thought it might of been the alternator failing so i went ahead and priced them and the dealer wants 450 bucks for an ac-delco :eek:. I called my local o reillys and they have an ultima one for 189 with a lifetime warranty or napa has a Ray one for 179 with a lifetime warranty. Any suggestions?

I got a little over 6 years out of my AC Delco batteries on my 2001 Duramax. I did some research when selecting batteries and I stayed with the AC Delcos, and DON'T buy them from the dealer! They will be at least 50% more than if you can find a parts store that carry them. I saved $55 per battery by avoiding the dealer parts counter.

I know folks who swear by the red top batteries but 189 bucks x 2 is a ton of money for batteries that probably won't last any longer than the Delcos that cost less. I mean heck, I got 6+ good years out of the Delcos why not stick with them...my $.02 worth.

[Heartbeat Hauler]

I got a little over 6 years out of my AC Delco batteries on my 2001 Duramax. I did some research when selecting batteries and I stayed with the AC Delcos, and DON'T buy them from the dealer! They will be at least 50% more than if you can find a parts store that carry them. I saved $55 per battery by avoiding the dealer parts counter.

I know folks who swear by the red top batteries but 189 bucks x 2 is a ton of money for batteries that probably won't last any longer than the Delcos that cost less. I mean heck, I got 6+ good years out of the Delcos why not stick with them...my $.02 worth.

Now that I am thinking about it, batteries are probably not causing the stalling issue. Might be a fuel issue, maybe an air leak or a loose or plugged filter.

Maybe a low battery might be causing the computer to freak out, but I dunno. Thought I would throw that in before the thread got to far off on battery replacement and side stepping your stalling problem.

[thebigtoto34]

Ok, so i cleaned my connections. They were pretty bad. Still, the battery light was one. Then i had my batteries checked. Both load and charge were good. Batteries showed 100% charged. Guy said the load was good. And since the batteries were at full charge, the alternator has to be fine...im assuming. But still, the battery light is on. On the positive side, the truck has not stalled, yet, after i cleaned the connections. So.....?

[Mark Rinker]

Have the alternator tested, next.

If they are REPLACEMENT (Delco or otherwise) batteries with removeable caps, check the water level. I added a pint of water between both batteries last week, and they are only about 18 months in service!

[thebigtoto34]

I should have knocked on wood! She stalled on me today...dang. But i will have the alternator tested next. Thanks

[Mark Rinker]

There are a couple of fuses under the hood that can stall the engine, if blown. If you have a loose or corroded connection, it could cause an intermittant stalling problem that would be hard to diagnose. You might look at the underhood fuse box to see if any dirt or moisture has made its way in there. Pull and inspect fuses for the ECM, injection pump, etc. A dab of dielectric grease on the springs before reinstalling the fuses will ensure a good contact. I use the stuff regularly on trailer connections, subjected to Minnesota road salt. Works wonders!

As posted before, the most common cause of stalling would be fuel starvation, or an air leak into the fuel system. Search the forums for other similar scenarios and fixes. Q: When was fuel filter last replaced, and if recently - could it have been reinstalled without an 'O' ring, or with the old 'O' ring still sticking to the filter housing? This would allow air to get sucked into the system...could cause stalling but probably your truck wouldn't run well inbetween...

Good luck, keep us posted!

[DmaxMaverick]

If the battery indicator in the message center is staying on, that means the problem is persistent (not intermittent), which is a good thing. Check your battery/system voltage, key off, key on, and key on engine running. If at any time it is below 10 volts (after glow cycle, about 30 seconds after key on) with engine off, or 14 volts with engine on, the charge circuit or batteries are at fault. Even though batteries test good, they could be bad. If they are original OEM's, consider replacing them, in any case (they are beyond the normal life, anyway). Look for ANY wetness around the side terminals. If there is any present, the battery(ies) are bad, regardless of how they test. Replace as a pair, if needed.

Also, if the PCM has never had a calibration update, you should consider having the latest installed (about 1/2 hour dealer shop rate). There were a couple improvements made to voltage charge rate and regulation, including a charge voltage increase to minimize voltage drops during certain conditions. This should be done, regardless of your current situation.

[thebigtoto34]

The fuel filter was changed about 2 weeks ago and the O rings were all taken off and put back on with new ones. Might just have to buy new batteries and see what that does. The batteries on it now are only like 2 years old, but they are like walmart brand batteries so ya. And might be a stupid question, but would oil leaking out of the bottom of the head gasket and down the block have anything to do with it? Just saw that today and my heart about dropped. UGH :eek::(:mad:

[DmaxMaverick]

The leak shouldn't have anything to do with it. It's probably coming from the crankcase vent in the middle of the valve cover (and running along the head gasket). Not uncommon to see this, but usually not bad enough to deal with. Most often, they only seep a little. If yours is dripping any significant amount onto the ground, it should be resealed (gasket and/or sealer). Not a bad job to do.

If the leak is, in fact, coming from the head gasket, you have a serious issue needing immediate attention. But, it shouldn't cause any stalling issues.

[thebigtoto34]

1. Can you tell a performance issue with a blown head gasket? My truck is running fine (besides the stalling) and the oil pressure is right where it is supposed to be.
2. Whats a rough estimate on the price to bring it in to the dealership and have them see exactly what is wrong...with the leaking oil. Or are they gonna have to tear things apart to get a true answer which results in more $?
3. I have a guy around town that is selling an 02 LB7 with 96000 miles. The truck was totalled. Some injectors were replaced within the last 3 years and less than 30,000 miles ago. All balance rates were well within specs. Motor has a tune, wastegate, and boost valve and made 500+hp and 800+ ft/lbs. He wants 3000 for the motor. Wondering if this would be a better route then putting more money into my motor now with 164000 miles. My injectors were replaced last year on my current motor and i could just swap them out and maybe put new head gaskets on just to be safe?

You guys are the experts, what do ya think? Thanks guys!!

[thebigtoto34]

Yep blown head gasket for sure. these are my options

1. buy motor with 96000 miles and replace head gaskets on that too just to be safe. And switch fuel injectors from current motor. End up costing about 6500.

or

2. replace head gaskets in current motor with 164000 and end up costing about 3500-4500 depending on whether i should use ARP studs.