Removal of Fan

[Truckie117]

Hi
I would like to know how to remove the fan on 1999 K2500 6.5 turbo diesel
I am installing a new ip got the manafold off now I need to remove the fan to get to the bolts holding the IP inplace.
Thanks

[Robyn]

Takes a fan wrench to loosen the hub on the fan clutch from the water pump hub.

Most parts stores sell the wrench kit. One tool hold the pump and the other one loosen the clutch hub.

Good luck

Missy

[Truckie117]

thanks but what does it look like does the big nut between the fan and the water pump get turned if anyone has a part number that i can lookup i would appreciate it.
Thanks again

[Truckie117]

Ok Removed the intake and oil fill it looks as if I dont need to remove the fan.
I would like to know which way should I rotate the engine to remove the bolts from pump clockwise or counter clockwise what is the best method to turn the engine.
In the picture you can see the stud on the IP is at about 1 O'Clock does it matter where this is when you put the new pump back in? or is the slot a set point. If you have to rotate the new pump to line up the stud should you rotate it clockwise or counter? Does it matter.
Thanks

[More Power]

The crankshaft normally rotates clockwise as you face the engine. That's the way I'd do it. Remove the serpentine pulley bolted to the damper, then use a 15/16" socket and flexhandle on the damper bolt to rotate the engine.

Jim

[Yukon6.2]

Hi
Remove the glow plugs as well.It makes it easyer to rotate the motor.Leave them out till you have the air removed from the pump,and have fuel mist coming out the glowplug holes.Shold fire right up then.

[DmaxMaverick]

If you are rotating by hand, it makes no difference which direction. If the accessories and belt are all still installed, you can usually rotate the engine by the alternator pulley fairly easily (significant ratio reduction). Good idea to remove the plugs until you're done.

The pump will only fit one way, and the pin has only one hole to go into. As long as the pin is in the hole, the timing will be right (or like it was before) and the bolts will go in easily. No need to remove the fan. Once the oil filler is removed, you can get to the bolts as you rotate the crank. Don't rotate once you loosen the last drive gear bolt and mark the pump shaft/housing with a Sharpie to ease installation (set new pump at the same location). Also, before you install the pump, put some blue Loc-Tite in the pump shaft bolt holes. It's a lot easier than trying to get it in with the pump installed. Blue Loc-Tite will give you about 10-15 minutes to get the bolts in and torqued, which should be plenty of time (don't take a lunch break between the install and torquing).

[Truckie117]

Hi Guys and Gals
Thanks for all the info Today I disconnected all the fuel lines on the pump and the Drivers side injectors was a breeze to take off the lines but the pass side is something else. Took out the air filter and fittings. I then tried to remove the heat shield from the turbo no problem but how do I get the heat shield between the turbo and injectors I removed the 2 little screws but where else is it screwed in probably somewhere I have to crawl under. grrr Thinking I may take the turbo off and drill and tap for a Pyro meter any thoughts? But first I have to get the lines off the old injectors. I have a new set of injectors to go in with the new pump I replaced the glows a year ago. What wrench do you use to tighten the lines on the bottom of the new pump when it is in? is there a sequence. Does anyone know how I can get the electrical line from the fire wall to the injection pump with all of the connectors. Some of the connectors locking tabs have broken on the old electrical lines and I would like to repair or replace the electrical lines.
Thanks

[Truckie117]

OK
I removed the pump today after buying a new set of 12point wrenches.
Rotating the engine so I could remove the bolts in the oil filler hole with a rag stuffed in it as suggested.
Now how do I remove that heat shield so I can get to the other Injectors and lines?
Now do I remove the turbo or not for a pyrometer. I also have the Heath vac pump replacement to install.

[DaveBr]

Put your Pyro in the crossover right below the drivers side manifold. This location gives you the most accurate EGT reading. It is the engine you are trying to protect, not the turbo. In this position you can safely run up to 1250*F.

[Robyn]

The heat shield slides down onto TWO (2) little guides. Once the two sheet metal screws on top are removed the shield should (with some wiggling) slide up and out and away from the lines.

If you look caregully down between the manifold and the shield, you will see the two little guides. Now depending on the amount of rust and such, these can get stuborn to remove. Maybe some good skunk piss will help.


When you are ready to reinstall things. Wash the bolt threads in the pump drive flange out with a little BrakeKleen before you install the IP. Wash the bolts too and dry, then put the Blue loctite on the threads.

Oily threads will negate the ability of the loctite to hold.

Good luck and keep us posted.


Missy

[Truckie117]

Thanks Missy
By the way good score on the TV and nice mounting solution.
I have to wait for my wrench set to arrive to reinstall.
While waiting I will clean everything fix the valve cover leak.
Does anyone know where I can get a replacement for one of the plastic wire harness ends the locking clip broke.