New Member, Old Truck

[TheGoose]

Hello everybody.

I have "inherited" a 1983 Chevy 6.2L diesel. The truck is actually a step-side half-ton. The body is in great shape. The truck has a 4 speed manual tranny and it was originally bought by my father-in-law brand new and he and his family drove it until the late 90's at which time he semi-retired the truck and placed it in a barn. He continued to periodically drive the truck and start it up until about ten years ago at which time the truck was not ran or started. I have been cleaning out the barn and I really want to get this old truck running again and bring it into use again. My FIL claims that he regularly got 26 MPG while driving the truck. It really is a nice looking vehicle and even has a wooden bed floor.

Does anybody know what happens to diesel fuel when it is allowed to sit for 10+ years? I know that gas will gell rather quickly but I had heard that diesel can stay good for a long time but that algae can grow in it.

My thought on getting the truck running is to of course drain all the fuel if it has not gelled or otherwise turned solid. Next drain all the fluids ( water, oil, etc) and attempt to flush the new fuel forward. I have heard that getting the glow plugs out can be a real pain on this particular truck but I would think that you would need to remove/replace them and spray a little oil into the cylinder. Next I would think that it would be good to try and turn the engine over a few times w/o glow plugs to try and lube up the cylinders.

Any help or suggestions welcome.

[85-m1028]

The nice thing about a stepside is you can unbolt the fuel filler from inside the fender a whole lot easier than a fleetside. I would get a buddy to help drop the the tank and empty it into a container to check for water content.

If you have alot of water then I would worry about algea. Remove the pick up and check the prefilter screen "may be a good idea to replace it". Give the tank a good a cleaning with ?? I would use acetone but someone else may suggest otherwise?? Algecide may be prudent if there is a lot of water.

Replace the rubber lines and clean the pickup gasket and seal it back up.

[arveetek]

Cool truck! That sounds like a pretty rare option, with the wooden floored-stepside bed diesel.

I think you're on the right track with removing the glow plugs and trying to spin it over first with a few shots of oil in the cylinders. Make sure you spin it over several times and that all the oil or other fluids have been purged from the cylinders before reinstalling the glow plugs. These engines are high-compression with little clearance between the pistons and heads. A little bit of fluid in the cylinder can cause a hydro-lock situation pretty quickly.

Dropping the fuel tank and cleaning it out would be a good idea as suggested. Change the two fuel filters as well. You have a mechanical fuel lift pump, so once the tank is cleaned and the filters are replaced, the easiest way to prime the fuel system is to spin the engine over with the glow plugs removed and your foot on the fuel pedal until you start getting fuel spray coming out of the holes.

When attempting to start the engine, try plugging in the block heater a few hours before to help aid in starting. Make sure the radiator and block are full of coolant first.

Casey

[TheGoose]

Thanks for the info. I have been toying with getting a new fuel tank for it. My FIL said he already patched the original tank once before. On LMC they show a 16 gallon tank for a diesel at ~$150 but I'm not sure if that is the same one I need. They are not showing a specific tank for a step-side. I hope they are the same.

http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cc/full.aspx?Page=134

My FIL claims there were only 300+ of these trucks built and it is supposedly very rare. I will try to post some pics in the next few days.

Yes, I plan on replacing all filters etc. also.

All advice welcome.

[TheGoose]

Also I don't think it has a block heater as we are in S. Texas and there is little need for heated blocks. I can double check.

[85-m1028]

Thanks for the info. I have been toying with getting a new fuel tank for it. My FIL said he already patched the original tank once before. On LMC they show a 16 gallon tank for a diesel at ~$150 but I'm not sure if that is the same one I need. They are not showing a specific tank for a step-side. I hope they are the same.

http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cc/full.aspx?Page=134

My FIL claims there were only 300+ of these trucks built and it is supposedly very rare. I will try to post some pics in the next few days.

Yes, I plan on replacing all filters etc. also.

All advice welcome.

If it's a short bed then the 16 gallon is what you need. Verify the diameter of the filler neck for the tank should be 1 1/2". The hose for the filler should be replaced too if you're gonna swap the tank. Check the tank straps as well.

The pickup in the tank is a pricey item, the only reason to replace would be for a faulty fuel level sensor so check the float and make sure it reads.

[TheGoose]

Thanks for the info. I will try to take some pics this week and post up and then check on the state of the fuel.

[TheGoose]

Also I wanted to see if anybody here had ever swapped from a manual tranny to an auto? Since my FIL is somewhat disabled I think it would be a lot easier for him to drive the auto. I assume you could just stick the shifter through the floor where the stick now is? Does it have any noticible effect on fuel mileage? Obviously a manual will always be more efficient than an auto but we would sacrifice a small amount of mileage for the ease of the automatic.

I have no idea how you would do the controls but I know these trucks were non-electronic but I think the auto's required some vacuum connections etc?

[Old6.2]

Just my opinion but with such a rare truck I would consider selling it as is and use the $$$ to buy a replacement instead of converting the transmission or any other major reconfiguration.

[TheGoose]

I think my FIL has become quite attached to this truck and I just deposed of another old car he had in the barn. I think we are going to get this one running. He's already "mad" at me for getting rid of his '52 Dodge.

What do you think a truck like this one would bring, for information's sake. Running or non-running. The truck has ~200K original miles. The wood bed is intact and not rotten and there is very little rust etc. No major body damage either and it is equipped with A/C.

I would really like to get it running and driveable. I was thinking that even if we put in an auto we could save all the old parts and it could be returned to original if we wished.


Just my opinion but with such a rare truck I would consider selling it as is and use the $$$ to buy a replacement instead of converting the transmission or any other major reconfiguration.

[DmaxMaverick]

The fuel isn't the problem. #2 will last for decades and be fine. Diesel won't "gel" like gasoline at reasonable temperatures. The problem is what else might be in the tank. If the tank doesn't leak, check if for water or any solids (rust, algae). If it's clean, don't mess with it. The rubber fuel lines may be rotted/cracked, so replace as necessary, and the same for steel lines if they are rusty, chafed or kinked. Replace all the lines needing it and replace the fuel filters.

Remove the line where it enters the injector pump and route it to a container. Add some fresh fuel then use shop air to pressurize the tank to about 2 PSI. Look for leaks, and run out enough fuel to purge the lines. Remove the injector pump return line from top of the pump and use low pressure shop air to purge it back to the tank. Check all the return lines at the injectors, and from the injectors to the steel return line (both banks tee together, then gang with the return from top of pump, and returns to the tank). If the fuel lift pump drips, it's shot, so replace. If it doesn't leak now, it probably will shortly after running some (replace at your soonest convenience). Replace the fuel filler cap, also (be sure it is a "Diesel fuel only" cap). Change all the fluids, remove the glow plugs, install new (or good) batteries, kick out the spiders, rodents and cats and crank until you get a spray of fuel from the glow plug holes. Work the throttle linkage (and spray with some WD 40, if necesary) until it's free and responds well with the pedal.

Install and connect new glow plugs (AC 11G or later), and check power to them as soon as the key is on (fix the GP system, if necessary). Do this with the air cleaner off and the studs and EGR actuator removed. Have something handy you can use to drop on the intake opening if it tries to run away (piece of wood or phone book-don't laugh-anything sturdy and large enough to block the air intake). Start as normal, but DON'T offer any throttle, just yet. Let it idle (I'm optimistic) for a while to allow it to warm up and flow in some fresh fuel. If not, the throttle may stick wherever you put it (it can stick internally). At first, give only a little throttle, until it seems to respond well. When everything seems right and it runs smooth, shut down and reinstall all the removed components.

DO NOT, under any circumstances, use ANY type of starting fluid/spray. The sticker on the air cleaner cover (if it's still there) isn't just a trivial comment.

Unless it has been removed, it has a block heater. No guarantee it will work, though. I don't suggest trying to use it unless you replace the AC power cord (Napa item), or are a fan of vehicle fires (it's too old and probably no good). In any case, it shouldn't be necessary, if all else is in good repair.

Good luck! These can be fun (I've done quite a few barn beauties).

[TheGoose]

Thanks for the good info. I had heard that diesel will last a while, just not sure how long.

[Old6.2]

Not sure how much $$ it would bring but your short bed would be more than my long bed. I do know that our manual transmission parts are hard to come by now as they stopped offering in 1987.

[TheGoose]

Here are the pics. I tried to post em last night but the forum was down.

[TheGoose]

More pictures. Truck would look better if I got all the krap out the bed and aired/replaced the tires. Gonna do that soon. It also needs a good washin'.

[TheGoose]

I know this is an old thread. My kids are now old enough to show interest in fixing up the old truck. The truck has now been sitting 20 years! Last time it ran, that i know of, was 2000.

We started by draining the radiator fluid out. The fluid didn't look bad, but the insides of the radiator that we can see look bad (corroded). The radiator looks very heavy duty, made out of brass/copper. I think I'd like to get this redone rather than buy a new one that I know won't be as well made as the original.

We removed the radiator, hoses, alternator, and A/C compressor. Our plan is to flush the fuel from the fuel tank, replace the hoses that we can, and replace the original fuel pump. Replace the fuel hoses that go to the injector pump. Remove the injectors and spray a little oil into the cylinder to let it lube. I think I'm going to avoid removing the glow plugs because they are known to break easily.

[TheGoose]

We're also going to replace the water pump and fan clutch. The truck does in fact have a block heater but I don't think it's ever been used (still has what looks like a zip tie on the cord bundled up).

[a5150nut]

Might do a pressure check on the cooling system before putting out a lot of dollars. If it has sat thru freezing winters there could be cracks you cant see.

[TheGoose]

Cracks in what? The block?

[TheGoose]

PS it doesn’t freeze here.

[a5150nut]

It doesn't freeze in Texas? I thought everywhere there did. I lived in Fort Worth for 3 years and enjoyed watching people that had no clue driving on ice. That and watching them crack up listening to KPLEX and the Hiney Wine commercials or Little Susy and her Car Aerobics.


Yes cracks in the block or heads. I had a 383 once that I sold to a guy and I told him to test it first. He got it all bolted in his pickup and started to fill with fluids and they started running everywhere.

[TheGoose]

Dallas and North Texas are a different environment than SE Texas (Houston area but more coastal). It does, on occasion, reach 31.9 deg F here and pandemonium breaks out. But overall, it really doesn't freeze, and if we do get a light freeze, it doesn't last but for a few hours.

The engine has always had anti-freeze in it, even if it's old. The anti-freeze that we got out didn't look nearly as bad as I thought it should have.

I bought the book advertised by this site. I'm hoping it will arrive this week.

We took the radiator to a shop in Houston but he said it would cost $600 to recore it so we bought a new aluminum one for $350. We are saving the original just in case we ever decided to get it restored.


It doesn't freeze in Texas? I thought everywhere there did. I lived in Fort Worth for 3 years and enjoyed watching people that had no clue driving on ice. That and watching them crack up listening to KPLEX and the Hiney Wine commercials or Little Susy and her Car Aerobics.


Yes cracks in the block or heads. I had a 383 once that I sold to a guy and I told him to test it first. He got it all bolted in his pickup and started to fill with fluids and they started running everywhere.

[TheGoose]

So far we’ve got all the accessories out ( water pump, alternator, AC compressor, radiator, etc). Pulled the fuel tank last night. The lines from the fuel tank to the low pressure fuel pump are a mixture of steel and rubber. Going to clear those and change all the rubber.

[TheGoose]

Also we’re putting in a new fuel tank/filler hoses and hardware.

[TheGoose]

I found the plug to the block heater zip tied in its factory storage condition. Radiator is here too.

A previous reply said it was a 16 gallon tank does anybody know if that’s right?

[TheGoose]

All 8 glow plugs successfully removed! Water pump installed.

[TheGoose]

Sprayed a little mystery oil into the glow plug holes. Waited a few days and then turned the motor over by hand. Fuel tank is here but we have not received the new straps and bolt up hardware. We have replaced all the fuel lines that were rubber up to the fuel pump (except one piece that we will tackle soon).

We do have a new fuel filter, but I thought I read that there were two filters?

I thought the fuel system went like this: Tank-->Mechanical Pump-->fuel filter-->injector pump-->injectors-->return line-->fuel tank. The fuel lines get a little fuzzy at the back of the engine an I can't quite see where they go exactly but now maybe I think they go to the firewall filter first? Is that right? Where is the 2nd filter?

[DmaxMaverick]

1983 models had 2 filters in OEM trim. Tank --> Primary --> Lift pump --> Secondary --> IP.

If you have only one in the system, it's probably OK, especially if it's a later, more efficient type, and installed between the lift pump and injection pump. It has a simple job, and only has to do it. You can also upgrade any OEM filters to modern aftermarket (such as Racor) that uses more common (and much less expensive) filter elements, as well as some being more helpful with priming (some have pumps, which goes a long way to help the starting system). I regularly recommend this, as the OEM filters and parts are becoming more and more rare and costly. Even a Duramax filter would be a good option, compared to the original. Filter elements aren't cheap, but they are very effective and you can find them anywhere. It also has a priming pump, as well as a heater. You may be able to find the assembly in a wreck for cheap.

[TheGoose]

Which is the filter on the firewall? Primary or secondary?

I'm a little confused on the fuel lines. After it leaves the fuel tank I traced them to the back of the engine compartment at which point they kind of snake around the block and I can't really see where they go exactly and they also cross with the other fuel lines. But it almost looks like it goes to the firewall filter then to the mechanical fuel pump. I haven't really gotten under there and looked real hard just looking from the top and wiggling the lines. Regardless the fuel lines are attached to the mechanical pump.


1983 models had 2 filters in OEM trim. Tank --> Primary --> Lift pump --> Secondary --> IP.

If you have only one in the system, it's probably OK, especially if it's a later, more efficient type, and installed between the lift pump and injection pump. It has a simple job, and only has to do it. You can also upgrade any OEM filters to modern aftermarket (such as Racor) that uses more common (and much less expensive) filter elements, as well as some being more helpful with priming (some have pumps, which goes a long way to help the starting system). I regularly recommend this, as the OEM filters and parts are becoming more and more rare and costly. Even a Duramax filter would be a good option, compared to the original. Filter elements aren't cheap, but they are very effective and you can find them anywhere. It also has a priming pump, as well as a heater. You may be able to find the assembly in a wreck for cheap.

[Bigshankhank]

On my old van there was a filter mounted below the cab, before the mechanical pump and then a 2nd one on top of the engine behind the intake manifold between the mechanical lift pump and the injector pump. The mounting locations will be different on a truck compared to my van, but if you have two, there should be a filter before and after the mechanical lift pump. If it only has one filter (either OEM or a conversion) it would be between the lift pump and the injector pump. My current van has an aftermarket Racor behind the manifold, between the lift and injector pumps. It is nice because it has a primer and made pumping up my fuel system after replacing my head a simple process. I recommend it as a very useful modification.

[TheGoose]

Got a P/N for the Racor filter with a pump on it?

[TheGoose]

Fuel tank installed finally. What a PITA.

Replaced all fuel lines up to the injector pump.

We spun the motor over with the gp out to see if we could get fuel to the ip. We disconnected the wire from the ip solenoid. We didn’t think about the oil cooler lines and after about 2-3 attempts had oil all over the floor. We will put a loop in the line today and try again.

[Yukon6.2]

Fuel tank installed finally. What a PITA.

Replaced all fuel lines up to the injector pump.

We spun the motor over with the gp out to see if we could get fuel to the ip. We disconnected the wire from the ip solenoid. We didn’t think about the oil cooler lines and after about 2-3 attempts had oil all over the floor. We will put a loop in the line today and try again.


You need 12V to the solenoid or it will remain closed

[TheGoose]

Danged if the motor didn't fire right up. Ran it about 20 seconds or so. Now re-connecting all the accessories and radiator parts.

Q: What is the best coolant to use for this engine?

[Yukon6.2]

Good quality green stuff