Rusty lugnuts

[Subzilla]

Ran through some heavy snow/slush/salt mixture some 2 years ago on a trip in the mountains with the Sub. It seems that ever since then, my lugnuts/wheel studs have increasingly grown more corroded internally and are becoming more challenging to remove at time goes on.

I rotated the tires this past weekend and I'm still applying lots of pressure to spin the lugnuts off even after I break them loose. At 8 per wheel, I'm tired after the task!

It's not every single one but just seems to be at random. And it seems to be more on the front than the rears. Is there some lubricant I can apply that's suitable on lugnuts/wheel studs? Any other fixes?

[crashz]

I personally use never-seize on all lugs, and mating flanges of wheels and rotors. Just a very light coating works wonders. It has helped with that same issue and eliminates the stuck wheels and rotors. We know rust up here!

Some people freak out about using a lubricant on wheel studs. I've never had a failure though. I torque the lug nuts to 10% above the factory settings to account for the never-seize lubricating the threads and re-torque after a week of regular driving. I've only found one loose lug nut while checking the second time, which leads me to believe it was just human error (forgot to fully tighten).

Make sure to clean up the threads on the studs first. I'd hit them hard with a wire brush first and clean them up as much as possible. If the threads are damaged only slightly, you could touch them up with a die. Be careful though, as a die only removes material, and if the threads are severly damaged and corroded, the die will make them even weaker. But if they are that bad, you'll know it and will have to remove the old studs and install new ones.

[DmaxMaverick]

If you use any anti-seize or lube on wheel studs (or any fastener, for that matter), the torque MUST BE REDUCED by 10-20% (depending on the lubrication quality). Lubricated threads INCREASE clamping force for a given torque value. Overtorqued wheel stud nuts often lead to early failure and/or brake rotor warpage. Increasing torque by 10% when using a lubricant actually increases the clamping force (and thread stress) by at least double that. Increasing torque to "compensate" for possible loosening is a very bad idea. A good anti-seize (I prefer a name-brand nickel type) shouldn't encourage premature loosening. It should only prevent corrosion and galling/seizure. A must-use with any stainless steel or aluminum fastener. Ideally, for wheel studs, they should be installed/torqued clean and dry. You can then apply a preservative afterward to seal the outer thread area.

If studs/nuts become difficult to R/R, they should be replaced. NEVER try to repair a wheel stud with a die. If they need repair, they need replacement. The cost of convenience is too high.

Using anti-seize on the hub/rotor/wheel mating surfaces is a very good idea, especially in the salt-belt areas.

[Subzilla]

I guess I was one of those who had heard to never use any type of lubricant on the wheel studs. I do use anti-sieze on plenty of other things in the suspension area.

I replaced all of the wheel studs about 5 years ago so they shouldn't be worn out! I'll wire brush them good, then apply the anti-sieze per your directions - 10-20% less torque and recheck them. I've been through the loose wheel scenario and it was scary - long story for later! I check them before every big trip now and just at random.

Thanks!

[DmaxMaverick]

If they clean up with the wire brush so you can spin them on by hand (or a little help), they should be OK if chunks of thread isn't missing. If you have forged aluminum wheels, you can torque them the same as steel. If they are cast, check with the mfg for the proper spec. Checking them periodically is a good practice most people don't consider. They seldom get any attention between visits to the tire shop (who notoriously over or under torque them).

In the future (if you aren't using the OEM style hub caps), when you replace the studs, also replace the nuts with closed style. Sometimes referred to "mag" or "rally" wheel nuts. Solid, not the "capped" type (which are nothing more than regular nuts with a thin cap over them). They stay sealed between service and help prevent the salt intrusion.

[JohnC]

I would refrain from putting any lube on the wheel studs. If you must, I suggest torquing one of the studs dry, marking the nut, counting the number of turns to take it of, then lube the threads and reinstall it the same number of turns. Then, check the torque necessary to turn it another 1/4 turn. I think you'll be surprised how different the two torques are.

At 10% over with lubed threads, I'm surprised nothing snapped!

One thing you could try is to torque them dry then spray the exposed threads with LPS-3 to seal things up. No moisture, no rust...

[crashz]

OMG! Sorry! I meant 10% below!!!

I'll try to proof read my posts form now on to catch this stuff. :mad: I've had brake/wheel problems in the past due to tire shop problems and therefore usually jump on my soapbox regarding proper torque procedures, even torque,et. And here I am giving bad advice. Again I'm sorry.