6.5L Rebuild: Tips for

[dhbmedic]

I have a 94 K2500 6.5L, F VIN, auto, 207K miles, running WVO the past 15K or so. Other than the WVO system, the only aftermarket mod is a 4" exhaust w/crossover.

Last week I was zooming down the road in the fast lane (only about 70 mph) and lost an oil cooler line. Before I knew what happened & had a chance to get to the off ramp and shoulder, I think I spun a crankshaft bearing. So now I'm in the process of pulling the motor out for bottom end inspection.

The question I have is, what other stuff should I do while I have the engine out? I don't know much about this engine's history, but it ran pretty well before this blowout. I need to be economical so I have to overlook some mods I might otherwise consider. My primary goal, at least at this point, is a reliable motor with good power & torque, that will serve me as a daily driver for many years to come. Sometime in the next year or so I plan to add a travel trailer to the driveway with this truck as the tow vehicle.

I've perused many of the threads related to rebuilds and am thankful there are so many experts out there willing to share their knowledge and experiences. I figure I should probably replace the injectors & remount the PMD. The glow plugs were recently replaced (about 3K miles ago). And, of course, there's always the inspection of the cylinders for any lingering issues related to running WVO (i.e., poly). Are there any other known issues I should be on the lookout for?

[rogers]

You may be looking at a new crankshaft and new bearings throughout the engine. So, with that in mind these are the things I would consider:
all new bearings! Scat crankshaft(~$350) and line bore rods inspected and matched to length polished or new cam re-hone the cylinders and new rings(total seal if you can afford it) inspect oil pump, lifters, piston skirts and crowns, main webs aftermarket oil cooler balanced rotating assembly fluidamper thick cometic head gaskets might be a way to achieve 18:1 on the cheap
That is what I would look at, in about that order. You of course will have to decide what your budget can handle based on the condition of the parts. Best of luck to you! We will all help where we can.

[a5150nut]

You may be looking at a new crankshaft and new bearings throughout the engine. So, with that in mind these are the things I would consider:

all new bearings!
Scat crankshaft(~$350) and line bore
rods inspected and matched to length
polished or new cam
re-hone the cylinders and new rings(total seal if you can afford it)
inspect oil pump, lifters, piston skirts and crowns, main webs
aftermarket oil cooler
balanced rotating assembly
fluidamper
thick cometic head gaskets might be a way to achieve 18:1 on the cheapThat is what I would look at, in about that order. You of course will have to decide what your budget can handle based on the condition of the parts. Best of luck to you! We will all help where we can.

Maybe add a set of After market oil cooler lines!

[dhbmedic]

Maybe add a set of After market oil cooler lines!

I thought of that, but they were replaced in order to assess the overall damage. They're looking real good at the moment; like new, in fact. (They better, dammit!!)

[dhbmedic]

All apart today, some not insignificant findings. Spun bearing (half free-floating, half welded to the rod), oil hole in the crank welded shut with bearing (likely warping the crank), scored cylinder. Looks like I'll be doing a drop-in, but now the question is: short block or long block?

Heads look good, as do the valves, IP & turbo. Standard rusted exhaust manifolds. Alternator & starter are new. I think the short block will be less expensive, but long block much easier & quicker.

What other considerations should I make? Any recommendations on suppliers? How about places to avoid? What kinds of damage would reduce my core refund?

[More Power]

All apart today, some not insignificant findings. Spun bearing (half free-floating, half welded to the rod), oil hole in the crank welded shut with bearing (likely warping the crank), scored cylinder. Looks like I'll be doing a drop-in, but now the question is: short block or long block?

Heads look good, as do the valves, IP & turbo. Standard rusted exhaust manifolds. Alternator & starter are new. I think the short block will be less expensive, but long block much easier & quicker.

What other considerations should I make? Any recommendations on suppliers? How about places to avoid? What kinds of damage would reduce my core refund?

Best - a new AM General P400 (if you can produce a modified oil pan) or a new AMG longblock - price about $6k. You get the forged-steel crank and new design. Genuine AMG engines are available from your local GM dealer, and www.peninsularengine (http://www.peninsularengine), www.wwwilliams.com (http://www.wwwilliams.com)

Optional - a rebuild using your engine... Either from a trusted local to you engine shop, or perhaps dieseldepot.com.

There's some real scary engine suppliers out there.... be careful.

Jim

[Lundstedt]

getting close to having my build done and have 5500 in so far, new forged crank, 18:1 pistons, 2 new heads (mine were destroyed with cracks) rockers were worn almost through, all new internals, i just found injector nozzles for 9.00 each so i got to build them next week. i spent close to what i thought i would but it is all exactly what i want and i put it together so no relying on a builder. you can spend far less than i did but that is about what you can spend if you try. that said if your not doingit yourself for the work involved get a long block, 207k if the heads havent been gone through its expensive to go through. better to spend the right money once then cut corners and spend 60% two or three times imo

[rameye]

I'm in the same boat as you...engine has given up the ghost...(head gasket minimum).

I just got quoted a price from ww williams...only them and peninsular are authorized resellers of the AM general engine.

anyway $5200 for a complete longblock (the only way they sell it) add for shipping.

To do a complete rebuild, new heads, rods rings, balanced rotating assembly..etc up here in the Northeast is pushing $5500-6000 when the dust settles and I still am using the old crank and block.

No brainer for me, for the money I get the new redesigned block and heads along with a warranty.