pyro temps

[stezloco]

what sort of exhaust temperatures should i expect from the 6.5td with a pyro fitted?, and given that silicon alloy melts at around 650 degrees celsius (i dont do farenheit, its a mental scale) how close should i reliably get to that figure without the boost collapsing the 'near mushy' crowns of the standard pistons? or does it burn the ring lands and melt the pistons to the bore? ive read on a thread here, someone saying the flame of combustion doesnt touch the piston ..surely it does?
isnt cooling your engine oil more effectively,keeping the intake air cooler with the use of an added freeflow k+n/intercooler (you Americans quite correctly call them aftercoolers) and buying the uprated water pump and twin thermostat housing, as well as a free flow exhaust system the way to go?
i find myself looking at spending some hard earned to try to make this motor bulletproof after reading some of the common failures with this engine....as far as fuel mileage goes ...ive had 9. something the first calculation, and averaged 13.6mpg (imperial gallon, about the only thing of ours thats bigger than yours...) over the next 140 miles....but when i first bought the truck and drove it home with the black smoke puffs from the exhaust (which you blokes steered me right on, thanks)at motorway speeds , i only put in 40 quid to come from leicester..which i thought wasnt bad for the distance .....question...was having a vacuum hose major leak giving me better mpg's because the computer wasnt seeing any boost and not adding extra fuel to suit? if thats so, would a tee off of the vac pipe into the cab with a small air valve on it do the job of upping my mpg at motorway speeds when i'm cruising anyway and wouldnt be on and off the 'skinny ' pedal to give me the black smoke......pauses for a breath....?
it would also have the secondary advantage of pulling out the 'bad air' from my cab allowing fresh air in through my leaking everything.... tee hee.
have now bought a neat little AUBER square pyro guage for the dash, vacuum ,boost and oil temp guage(for g-box) ..just need a pillar 3-pod to mount them when the weather warms up a bit,...then i'll see when the vacuum lets go of the turbo and at what boost pressure, if i understand its operation correctly....looking forward to it, but dont expect any quick action, i'm in near hibernation mode and wont be doing anything on the truck till the white stuffs gone and the temps above 5 degrees.....centigrade of course...:D

[6.5 Detroit Diesel]

you want to keep temps down, best thing to do is open up the exhaust. that alone should drop egt's a noticeable amount. heatline on the GM turbos is 1250f (676 C). after that, things do start to melt, though as far as i always heard, it started in the turbo first? i have hit 1250 a few times and haven't had any engine damage as a result. of course, every time i hit that temperature, it was unintended. typically towing a decent load i will see temps around 900-1000 and unloaded a few hundred degrees cooler. water injection does wonders for dropping temperatures, but i have no idea what the cost is over there, and installing might be a pain. the difference i noticed with the water was rather large. i did one trip over a large mountain range with no water injection, and was running temperatures around 1050F. hooked up the water injection and on the way back, never went over 800F. this was keeping the truck at around 120 up hill.

dual thermostats can't hurt, but as far as cost effective, simply an HO pump would probably work better. i don't know if the 6.5 is the same, but many older V8 engines had the coolant enter at the front of the head and circulate through the back of the block/head before returning to the radiator. not the most even cooling system.

figure out a way to open up the intake as it is really restricted coming to the turbo. do a search on that, there is a lot of helpful info here on it.

that white stuff can get in the way, eh? looks like it all landed on that side of the ocean inside of here. no snow in weeks, and things are starting to grow already. :D

[tank140]

HI Stezloco

Sorry to butt in here but i am from england aswell i am over near warrington,

my GM 6.5 Td is in a 142 landrover defender i have built, she gives me about 30 MPG nice to see a local dude with one of thease buggers

tank

[stezloco]

Thanks for the info on temp's....its a subject on which i'll always be looking for more info ....could you elaborate on your water injection system?..i'm sure i can build one at relatively low cost to work off a manual switch..what spray/flow rate?
i'm already on building a stainless exhaust system for the truck and plan to fit a single stack on the passenger side only, hidden by my toolbox, you'll only see the tip peeking out...:)

[stezloco]

Hello mate,
dont mind ya buttin' in at all...its funny really cos i was looking at a landrover 130 as a tow hauler but passed it over as overpriced and underpowered, this chevy puts out 190 according to the book but feels better than any diesel i've driven, just loads of power, theres the penalty of course....had a Rangie with a perky 4litre I put in it and one fine day came off the road towing a decent load of dolomite (my own fault really)....broke the rover up and sold off in bits....swore i'd never tow heavy loads again, but here i am now years later with this big chevy, it feels way more surefooted and stable than anything we or the japs've got at this weight..its gross is 3.9tonnes....i'm just finding my way around whats under the bonnet and getting used to being fuel poor again....dont know how youre getting 30 mpg..although depends on yer body fitted...are you around 2 tonnes unladen? that would help..you running permanent 4 wd through std box? i dont know what this truck weighs yet....they call them a 3/4 tonne pickup but i've had 2 dumpy bags of gravel in the back and it never objected and felt safe although it was overloaded (wouldnt know to look at cos the springs took it in their stride)......slap my wrists i know......hence the trailer....3.9tonne minus 3/4 tonne = 3.15 tonnes unladen..cant be right surely? i'll have to get it weighed next time its out...
you must have a light foot, i'll have to try driving in my slippers eh?:) best ive had so far is 9. summat loaded and 13.ish unloaded...wasnt being particularly careful, suppose i'm going to have to change my style of driving..convert those figures to U.S. gallons and its frightening....Robyn was right all along...:eek:
according to my local test station, pickups are going on to class 7 this yr sometime, so if i have to do that i'm putting the 12 spring pack and twin wheels on off my old banger military scrapper chevy and gonna rate it at 3490kg gross....just need to make some arches for it, the original fibreglass ones for the duallies are pure cr#p and well too pricey....i feel some ally chequer plate coming on.....
142? you stretched it yourself? never did like box chassis...too many places for rot to hide, been there, got the rusty eye, ha ha ....c section is the way forward...;)

[6.5 Detroit Diesel]

i bought a unit off e-bay, but you could rig one up yourself. you will need some sort of nozzle, a pump, reservoir, and a switch. i would go with some sort of pressure switch or if you really good with wiring and such, you could tap into the pyro and have the pump heat activated. that would probably be best as constantly having to manually switch the pump will drive you crazy. ;) the unit i got came with a digital controller that can be set up with your pyro, your throttle control, or off your boost pressure. i had it set so that if it hit 12 pounds boost it would start spraying and at 15/16 pounds of boost it would be going full spray. i was running a 760cc injector on my truck, which is way to big. reccomended size was 380cc's, which will do plenty. the water will apparently add a little power, but if you want more power as well, a 10% mix of methanol can be done. but if you are worried about making sure the engine lasts, i would just stick with water.

about that exhaust, you will want to make sure that the exhaust is somehow directed away from the cab. when i put stacks on my truck, i didn't have the tips, and for a week i had the stacks cut off flush with the top of the truck bed, basically about head height. i couldn't drive the truck for more then 20 minutes without getting a headache.

[stezloco]

Thats interesting about the pyro doing the switching for the water injection cos i bought an AUBER model SYL 1813 R from the U.S.A. here on ebay U.K. for not a lot of money compared with what the main line tuning boys, naming no names here, are offering for a shed load of more money...and it can do more than just pyro, its a bit clever. it is quite small and will fit in my dash no problems and according to the instructions the settable max reading also puts out a voltage to work a warning buzzer or a relay ...very handy indeed.....something for the future i think....
cheers.... ;)

[6.5 Detroit Diesel]

it shouldn't be to hard to wire up so that when the pyro reads a certain temp, it triggers the pump. the pump i got was similar to ones i can get at local hardware stores. it has a screw that can be turned to change pressure from 100-250psi. i would reccomend running under 150psi.

[More Power]

The aluminum pistons expand at a faster rate than the cast iron cylinders. At excessive exhaust (combustion) temps, the pistons begin grabbing the cyl walls, which can result in scarred cyl walls, jammed piston rings and damaged pistons. In the worst cases, the pistons can even come apart.

A typical 6.5TD will produce 500-650 F EGT (measured before the turbo) while cruising unloaded on level highway and 750-1000 F while towing on level highway. You can run the engine at 1250 F for the length of time it takes to pull a max GCVW load up the longest steepest Interstate grade in North America (many minutes in some cases).

I feel the factory turbocharger is one of the bigger contributors to excessive exhaust temps while towing heavy. Another turbocharger (e.g. Holset HX35) and an intercooler will go a long way to keep EGTs in check - in those situations. ;)

Jim

[stezloco]

ive looked at the hx35 thing but nobody seems to be able to give out the exact part no. of the right configured hx35 to suit the 6.5, or am i looking in the wrong place? there are loads of different setup hx35's for different applications....wouldnt want to shell out my hard earned for the wrong one..