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donr
04-22-2005, 20:32
My 98 chev 6.5 is giving me fits. 100,000 mi. put in new ip and fsd in November, it ran fine for about 6000 mi then would die and not start for 10 min. or so. Got an Heath remote FSD and problem cured. For about 2000 mi. Then same symptoms came back . I noticed that it usually died at low throttle settings or at an idle throttle setting. Called Bill Heath and although he said that fsd failures are very rare with his kit, he still sent me a new one. Problems were still there. Dies when warm, and will restart an a few minutes. But may only go a mile before dying again. I noticed that it seems to run longer without dying when it's cooler outside, like at night. Bill suggested the IP or ign.switch. Has anyone out there had similar problems and figured it out?

DA BIG ONE
04-23-2005, 02:49
Have you checked fuel pressure when this is happening? I know Bill would have suggested this but, I figure I'd mention it anyway.

CareyWeber
04-23-2005, 07:55
Originally posted by donr:
My 98 chev 6.5 is giving me fits. 100,000 mi. put in new ip and fsd in November, it ran fine for about 6000 mi then would die and not start for 10 min. or so. Got an Heath remote FSD and problem cured. For about 2000 mi. Then same symptoms came back . I noticed that it usually died at low throttle settings or at an idle throttle setting. Called Bill Heath and although he said that fsd failures are very rare with his kit, he still sent me a new one. Problems were still there. Dies when warm, and will restart an a few minutes. But may only go a mile before dying again. I noticed that it seems to run longer without dying when it's cooler outside, like at night. Bill suggested the IP or ign.switch. Has anyone out there had similar problems and figured it out? What codes are you getting?

CLean all battery cables and ground cables (both end of each one).

Check all your wiring (Connections and Rubbed wires {search for "FSD didn't fix it" to see how a rubbed wire caused me issues}).

If you have not done it replace your fuel filter?

Check your Lift pump psi and see if your OPS.

Carey

markrinker
04-23-2005, 07:59
I had a similar problem and it was a corroded fuse that supplied power to the ECM. Check and clean all fuses as part of the electrical system troubleshooting.

donr
04-23-2005, 08:17
Thanks,Fellas, There are no codes showing, haven't checked w/ a tech2 yet just OBD2 reader. Checked lift pump pressure = 6# idle, 5#+ @ 65mph, 1+# full throttle. Cleaned terminals, added another ground wire. Filter pretty new, but will change anyway. Is there any problem with fuel prime after filter change?
Mark, was the fuse in the fuse block on the left of the dashboard?
I think the trouble only occurs in warmer (70deg+) weather. On a cold start, it will run for 20+ miles then die. After that it will only go 1-5 miles before dying again, with restart taking at least 5min.
Also could it be the ign switch?, Tho I don't think temperature would affect it like this.

turbovair
04-23-2005, 10:04
Check your ignition switch by wiggling, tugging key while engine running. If it dies, switch is bad. My 96 had a bad switch and I found it by pulling/tugging/wiggling switch. If bad, get one at dealer for about $180. My stalling completely disappeared after changing the switch. Easy to check.

autocrosser
04-23-2005, 12:11
My son just went thru the same problem with his 95. It would run awhile with a substiture PMD and then quit. I finally told him to check the power out of the switch especially that going to the shutoff solenoid on the injection pump. One new switch later and it's ok.

twaddle
04-23-2005, 21:44
Donr, When the truck won't fire up right away,
check if the glow plug light is coming on and also if the you can hear the lift pump is buzzing or not.

Let us know.

Good luck

Jim Twaddle
Biggar
Scotland
96 Suburban (Sol-D) just fitted.

donr
04-24-2005, 05:39
I'm back with more info. Thanks for all the suggestions. Installed new filter, but old one was very free of blockage. Did pressure gauge on lift pump, it's working fine. Glow plug light coming on like it's suppossed to. Wiggled key aggressively, did not shut down engine or even burp. Drove it about 100 miles yesterday, it was raining and cool outside,and no quit. On days over 70deg. it quits after 20mi and then every mile or 2 thereafter. AUTOCROSSER, which switch did your son replace ? And when it dies, could I connect a 12volt source to the fuel shutoff solenoid to make it run. I think it might oversupply the pump, but it may tell me where the problem lies.

autocrosser
04-24-2005, 15:29
The ignition switch was replaced. Unfortunately i believe starting with a 95 or 96 the switch price skyrocketed. I believe he also had to buy two external type torx screw drivers to get everything apart. They were smaller than the ones usually found in a normal set. He got them off a Snap-on dealer he knows.

I don't know about applying power to the couoff solenoid. I doubt that it would hurt but you have probably lost power ot other things besides that when the switch acts up.

charliepeterson
04-26-2005, 18:02
donr;
Try wiggling the wires at the bottom of the steering column. When you turn the key it activates a rod down the column and hits the ignition switch at the bottom of the column. To see it you really have to contort your self near the brake pedal.