spinning an IP dry

[Mikey von]

I want to pre-oil my engine using my starter (no injectors installed). I have already installed my IP.

Is it ok to spin my IP over with no fuel (lube) supplied?

[Mikey von]

found my answer. I will pull my IP.

[More Power]

I would take that opportunity to prime the fuel injection system - even without the injectors installed (though that would be better).

Jim

[Mikey von]

I would take that opportunity to prime the fuel injection system - even without the injectors installed (though that would be better).

Jim

I will do this at a later step. Engine is on the stand, no fuel hooked up at all and no lines installed as well. I will have the valve covers off to check that lifters and valve train are working properly.

[john8662]

Is the waterpump plate installed, covering the IP drive gear?

If so, DO NOT REMOVE THE INJECTION PUMP AND ROTATE THE ENGINE.

Otherwise, the gear will jump time, and you'll be in sorts of hurt getting the engine running later.

It won't hurt the IP to be spun by a starter with no fuel. There is still some calibration fluid inside the pump that will lube things while it's being rotated. Seriously.

[Mikey von]

the water pump is not on. I just installed the IP and gear yesterday. So you are saying I should be ok?

I guess this is the problem with posting on multiple forums, you get multiple and conflicting answers.

[john8662]

Personally, I wouldn't prime the engine until its sitting in the chassis ready to run.

The best way to oil prime the engine is to drive the oil pump, you really don't have to rotate the engine much.

Your course of action should really be:

Install the engine, after everything is bolted up and ready to turn over. Pull the oil pump drive out, and drive the oil pump with the hex shaft. You will need the right sized socket and extension setup adapted to an electric drill to achieve this. Turn the oil pump until it primes. You'll see oil spraying in the hole where the oil pump drive/vacuum pump goes. Your drill will bind down really hard too when it first takes.

After that, start priming your fuel system, which requires rotating the engine. By that time everything will be well lubed inside from the priming of the fuel system which if you had fuel right up to the pump (filter primed) will take 3 good long cranks to have fuel weeping out the loose injector nuts.

Just curious, why are you considering lubing the engine now? The main reason not to really is that the assembly grease will be gone, so the engine will lose it's shelf life.

Oh, and no, I'm pretty sure you're not going do damage the IP by rotating the engine without a fuel supply. As mentioned, the pump is NOT dry, it still has some calibration fluid in it (light oil).

[Mikey von]

I have been told by a few that spinning the oil pump using a socket and drill does not work properly as oil pump drive seals the oil gallery and without it you cannot build proper oil pressure. I have been told you can modify a oil pump drive into a tool to spin the oil pump.

I also need to have the valve covers off to insure the lifters fill with oil properly (per MaxPF, the engine builder).

I am just about ready to install the engine. I am hoping to at least get it on the frame this weekend.

[Mikey von]

Oh yeah, this is my first rodeo when it comes to this stuff. I have done minor repair work, the deepest I have been is replacing a carb, intake, and distributor on a 350. So, I am all ears.

[john8662]

Yeah, to do it properly, you need to build the prime tool out of an old vacuum pump stalk.

To get the oil pump primed and ready to make oil pressure in the rest of the system, you can just spin the rod as previously mentioned.

The first long crank you do after that (while priming the fuel system for example) will finish off the prime on the oil and you'll start making oil pressure.

Just another tip. Watch the oil pressure gauge while you're cranking, it'll have power so as soon as the system starts making pressure, you'll see if while your're still cranking the starter.

J

[Mikey von]

so spinning the oil pump with a drill will pre-prime the oil pump so I can prime the system by using the starter? Is this a neccissary step? I will be spinning the engine with no injectors (no compression).

[john8662]

It depends on how long you want to wait for oil pressure.

I've had a few engines that simply filling up after either a new assembly or a simple oil pump replacement after doing other maintenance that wouldn't prime in a reasonable amount of time.

The last one was an 82 6.2 that got a new oil pump. Engine was apart for other issues (head gaskets and one connecting rod and piston) and got a new oil Pump. The fuel system was also removed and changed for a non-leaking one (injection pump). The fuel system was primed in the truck by turning over the engine 3 long times till I got fuel at the injectors. Still no oil pressure. Got engine started, no oil pressure, running for 10-15 seconds I got nervous. Killed the engine, primed the oil pump with a drill, took quite a while then it caught on really well. I'm sure that if I had left it running to prime itself the bearings would have suffered. Other engines haven't been such a pain, but some have been in between.

So, good practice to know the oil pump is working and prime at least the pump and part of the system. Then re-fill the engine crankcase with oil again, then start it.

Yeah, if you're gonna oil prime with the starter, prime the oil pump manually first, either by itself or with the oil pump adapter you'll have to make out of an old vaccum pump stalk.

[EWC]

Couple things , just because you have oil pressure does not mean that the oil is where it needs to go . I built a primer using an old vac pump and spun it with a 1/2 air drill on a new engine that I had installed . Running my yap and somebody made a comment about oil running down onto the floor . Oil was coming up thru the oiling hole in the drive ( thanks Robyn ! ) and running between the shaft and the housing . There is a very , VERY small hole that I tapped and plugged with an Allen screw . Now I have my engine on the stand and I capped off all the cooler lines and the Banks turbo feed as well . I have an older 97 HO pump with maybe 209,xxx on my 6.2 build . Primed it with the drill and a guage and spun it over while priming with a breaker bar . Watching the push rods , etc until oil came out . I'm still going to spin this over , without glow plugs , for a few minutes until I feel good about priming the lines and cooler , etc . Don't want a dry start on this .