hard blok

[turbonator]

i am wondering if its possible to put block cement into a motor that is already assembled. what are the expansion qualities of this product?

has anybody ever used this product? thanks very much in advance :)

[Robyn]

Heads need to be off and the decks square with the floor so the stuff can fill evenly.

Call Heath Diesel and talk to Bill or Todd.


Missy

[john8662]

I'd also ask the maker of the filler too. If there is any expansion, you may change the bore clearances around where the block filler is inserted.

I know nothing about this either, been thinking about it for a very special project engine in the works for a very oddball platform that doesn't need to carry around as much water. But, my limitation is weight, so the blockfiller would likely add more weight than that of the water it will displace...

Please update us on what you find.

I don't really think this is a good idea for an engine going into a truck for a daily driver though. Racing, maybe.

Splayed caps are the solution here, I can only splay 6.5 and late 6.2 blocks though.

[turbonator]

finally i did some pokin around and called bill heath, bill says it is not recommended in a motor that is already assembled, as it will cause the bores to move, he says do the bare block, put it in a corner and forget about it for 70 days then go and line bore the pistons and crank.

heath diesel does many blocks like this and bill says the best product hes found is grout from the local hardware store, he says the common grout is more predictable than the products that are on the market now.:) bill also puts the crank in tourqued to specs and covers the deck with seran wrap, old head-gaskets, and heads tourqued down. he says they move the motor to different angles to geat the grout in all the nooks and crannies, but the bulk of the filling is down with the block standing on end.

[john8662]

Grout?

No thanks, I'd pass. Thanks for sharing your learned information though. I was afraid that since the tolerances in an engine are tight, crank, cam, bore size, that adding a material after machining will cause the tolerances and clearances to change.

I'm really not convinced that the block filler is going to really strenghten the area that cracks in the bottom end. Yeah the block itself might be more sturdy from flexing, but concrete cracks too, easier than cast iron. The part of the webs that cracks will probably still crack because the main cap is still trying to be pulled off the block. The tugging on the bolts, and tugging on the material the bolts are threaded into, can cause a crack when the amount of force exceeds the load the material surrounding the bolt can handle.

[turbonator]

one thing the cement might do is change the harmonics of the motor and dampen the frequencies that might cause structural failure, that might be why gep changed the contents in the block to dampen the internal harmonics.... pretty deep sh$t....:)