What am I going to have to replace now?

[Low_Bridge]

I popped my hood to look for the annoying drip of diesel coming from behind my motor and when I walked back to the truck I hear this...chiming sound coming from the A/C Compressor. The clutch is not engaging and I can literally see little metal particles coming out from the front of the clutch.

Question: Is this going to be just a clutch replacement?

Question2: How hard will it be to pull off and R&R the clutch?

This is on the 94 2500 Turbo Diesel 4x4 Suburban

Thanks in advance for your help-

I am pretty whipped, everything I have is either broke or had something stolen-

Low

PS- wish me a Happy Birthday, lol. Not. The big one no less- I sent back my AARP membership-

[schamp6497]

Hi and happy birthday. The ac clutch is not that big of a deal. If its that far gone how much longer on the compressor. That drip at the back of the engine can be a real hard job to deal with. Mine did that except it was coming from inside the bell housing. Look at the fuel lines going to and from the fuel filter. You might have to unbolt the fuel filter to look at the bottom to see if that is leaking as well. On mine, I ended up letting a transmisson shop pull the transmission to see exactly where it was coming from. Very costly. They found the leak and put the transmission back in. Problem is they didn't put the gounds back on the top bell housing bolts. Believe those are for the glow plugs. I used some starter fluiid to get it going a few times and then found out it was pumping water into the exhaust. Cracked pre cups. All of this on an Avant rebuilt engine with about 40 K. Hope your fuel leak shows itself. Good luck. schamp

[rustyk]

The problem on many A/C compressors of that era is the the clutch can't be R&R'd; the entire compressor has to be replaced.

[Old6.2]

I had a fuel leak dripping from the bell housing on my 6.2. The block is cast with a drain hole in the back of the "V" and the fuel was coming from the advance plunger to my injector pump. A local shop replaced the seal for $10 but getting the pump out takes some time.

[Low_Bridge]

OK, I just swaped out the whole compressor AC unit with clutch-

My Question ?

Until I replace receiver Drier, Screen & have it vacuumed & charged- It's OK to run it with the clutch unplugged?

Just letting the pully free wheel-

Thanks-

Low

[john8662]

It won't engage anyway because the low pressure safety switch would not allow the clutch to turn on because there is no freon in the system.

Yep, you can let it freewheel, it won't mind one bit, just as though the A/C isn't on.

[Low_Bridge]

Thanks-

I thought so, but I thought it wold be safer to ask-
:D

Now back to the drip search & rescue!

[Low_Bridge]

I've got a drip off the starter bolt & my stumble has decreased-

Tightened the lines at the filter & need to get a better look at the injector 3rd back on the passenger side-

Symptons:

Restart a little stumble after around 45 seconds-

She's actually running out a little better- so I gave her the juice to the boards to get the turbo to whine & she ended up dieing going down the road-

Kinda have to hold to to the floor to ge her to start again-

if I drive her like egg shells under the foot no problem-

It's feeling fuel related-

?

I should what next?

Thanks All-
94 Suburban 2500 4x4 Turbo

[JohnC]

Sounds like the fuel filter or lift pump...

Not enough fuel getting to the injection pump.

[john8662]

Replace the hole clips with hose clamps going to the fuel filter. Those clips are not quite strong enough and will leak.

After you get done there, bleed the fuel filter using the lift pump. Somewhere on here there is a pic describing which wires to cross after removing the fuel pump relay in the electrical center under the hood. I cannot remember which ones it is, cause I always have to guess when doing it. When I get home from work, i can check it by jumping it and seeing.

J

[Low_Bridge]

We've learned to drive her & start her very "Gingerly" to avoid Fuel Starvation- (If that be it)

So I guess It's time to test the lift pump The filter can't have to many miles on it-

I'll double check some more fittings like you said regarding the leaks-

Thanks very much

[Low_Bridge]

All the he lines are dry--

Leak is at the very bottom of the hosing - Remove?

Is their a chance I can service it?

JB weld ? O-ring? Blow Torch? Hehehe

Or must I buy the coveted Racor ? What Model ; ( (I can't use the 2 filter setup like the 82 6.2 because? )

The Big Question- Fix the leak before I attack the stumble problem any more? Could it be suck'in da air too?


Thanks

[56pan]

Had the leak at the back of the engine twice. Once on a '85 6.2L, and again on a '93 6.5L. Both times it was the throttle shaft seal on the inj. pump. Leaks down in the valley under the pump and runs off the back of the engine. Not that bad to replace, and the procedure is in the service manual. Hope this helps.

[Low_Bridge]

I added a clamp right before the Bleeder T valve / drain thing- that's near the thermostat housing! I had noticed some sweat there (but didn't appear to be the leak-)

Stumble may have disappeared :eek:

Is that possible? Suckin air in from there!

I drove around the block & a 12 mile round trip with no apparent stumble - may be to early to tell -

PS 56Pan- I'll look twice at those areas thanks-

[Low_Bridge]

OK, Mama has been driven the burban all over the Tampa Bay area. Maybe put 5K miles on it- The diesel drip healed itself & the stumble under heavy acceleration has gotten less noticeable, only helps keep you foot out of it & good for economy-

-

Time to charge the AC-

New Compressor
New Dryer-Question

1.Where is the orifice tube located at? (dual air 94 K2500 4x4 Burb)

2. If I buy a 32 ounce bottle of Oil for the compressor- where do I pour in at?

3. Is it OK to use the smaller looking Green seals that came with the new REC Dryer- ?:confused:

Thanks all