Block Heater Leaking

[Scooby]

I live in central Florida, and my block heater rarely gets used. I am sure I never NEED to use it, but the truck sure sounds happier when I use it when the temps are in the 30's or 40's. This year has been VERY cold here, and for much longer than usual. I plugged the truck in a few days ago for about 2 hours, and when I moved it, there was about a 3 inch puddle of coolant. It is coming from the block heater. I havent drove it yet, and I dont know if it will get worse once the engine heats up. How hard is the heater to change ??

[a5150nut]

:eek:
How hard is the heater to change ??

A whole lot easier than changing the motor after the block heater blows out and you burn up the motor.

Is that enough motivation to get ya going? :D

[JohnC]

Not hard. Finding a block heater in Florida might be tough, though....

You don't need it. Put a rubber freeze plug in instead if you can't find a heater.

[tank140]

Hi all

just a quick question about thease heaters,

is the block heater located within the front drivers side core plug on the engine block?

also what volts does it take?

i have two engines with thease in the core plug my 6.5 TD and a 6.2 i have sitting under the bench, always wondered what they are for, any guidence would be helpful also the best way of wiring of the heater?

as it is prety cold over here in the uk at the mo -10deg C,

my 6.5 starts fine with a bit of heat from the glow plugs.

cheers
tank

[john8662]

Usually it's just the o-ring that's leaking. You'll have to determine what's leaking by removing the plug and looking there, if it's leaking from the contacts, game over, time for a new one.

Otherwise, unscrew the screw (it doesn't come out all the way), carefully pry out and get a new o-ring at the autoparts store, one that's the right size, not too tight, but not loose either (use good judgement).

Re-bend the install clip that's on the inside, so that it'll install correctly when you throw it back in the hole.

Oh, and you're gonna get wet.

[Edahall]

Not the best fix but I had the same problem on my 82 Suburban so I mixed a tube of epoxy and covered the whole works with the epoxy. I never use the block heater since it never freezes where I live and so far after 10 years, it hasn't leaked again.

[DmaxMaverick]

Replacement is simple, but as John said, you're probably gonna get wet. It's a good idea to time the replacement with a cooling system service.

However, I do not advocate any type of repair of the heater. If you go through the trouble of removal, replace it. They are not expensive, and will likely fail soon after a replacement, or blow out completely. The retention method is "use once", or take a huge chance. In most cases, the screw will strip anyway (although it may not feel like it), leaving you with a false belief that it is properly secured. By the time the O-ring begins to leak, especially if the heater is original, the element potting is not far behind, and will likely begin to leak coolant soon. They just aren't costly enough to justify any repair. Replace it. Be sure to grease the O-ring. If the hole is pretty rough (pitted), use some RTV to help with sealing. Usually, just scraping off the rust and a pass with some emery cloth is enough. A rubber plug is a temporary solution (they will fail, eventually...count on it). If you eliminate the heater, install a regular frost plug ASAP (it can be done in-frame).

[Mark Rinker]

Every diesel should have a block heater, even if its now living in Florida, IMO!

Same truck can easily end up somewhere really cold, and need it to start.


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Block-Heater-Chevy-GMC-93-02-6-5L-6-2L-Diesel-Engines_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2a03fe6b91QQite mZ180455631761QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5f Accessories

[Robyn]

The local NAPA store will be able to supply you with a new one.

Its a 1-5/8" standard heater.

The heater is located just aft of the front engine mount on the LH side.

If you jack the truck up and remove the LH wheel and the rubber flap on the inner fender, you can gain access to the heater.

Now your gonna get a little sloppy taking out the old one.

As mentioned there is no fixing the thing.

Remove the old one by unscrewing the center screw and then prying the heater out of the block.

Use a little power wire brush in a die grinder and clean the core hole out good.

Apply a little grease to the O ring on the new heater, insert the new heater then tighten the center screw untill the unit is snug in the hole.

The heater is held in by a "Butterfly" clamp that spreads out and grabs the block from inside.

This is not too bad of a job once you gain access through the inner fender.


Good luck

Missy

[rustyk]

Same truck can easily end up somewhere really cold, and need it to start.

Yes, it can; I visit my sister in NW MO every year during the Christmas holidays. This year it was -10°F when I left. I left the block heater on overnight. The engine protested a bit, but started fairly easily.

[Scooby]

Thanks to all who replied. I didnt know the heater was so easy to remove. I had Napa get me one. It took 5 days, but I got it Monday. I drove the truck over the weekend and it didnt leak. I am flushing out the cooling system for a coolant change, and will change the heater before putting in the new anti freeze. I am sure it is just the o-ring leaking, and I have lots of o-rings, BUT I agree that for 55.00 it isnt worth having the thing blow out who knows where. The one from Napa looks identical to the one in the truck. I am sure it is the original from '96, as the previous owners were also in Florida, and the cord was tied up like it had never been used.