Banks Sidewinder Seal Source

[uglyjeep]

I'm not to sure whether this question belongs here or in 6.2/6.5 Tech, but here it goes anyhow.

I picked up a spare '82 6.2 J-code with a partial banks kit. The guy told me it was smoking bad when he pulled it, but that it still had good power (I got it really cheep). I got it home and in the turbo output (I think that's what it is called - the part that goes to the engine) there is a coating of engine oil. I checked the oil drain tube and it appears to be clear. I'd like to use this engine on my low mileage 6.2, but I don't want to run "waste engine oil" through the intake.

Where can I get the replacement seals or am I going to have to disassemble the turbo and take the seals in to a bearing and seal shop? Even more important, is replacing the seals something that can be done without special turbo specific tools?

[Robyn]

First off
Check the turbo and see if the impeller spins freely ????

If the shaft spins freely, does it touch the sides of the housing or wobble around or show signs that it has been hitting????

If the thing seems solid you can clean it up and disassemble the little beast and check things out.

Seals in these are not like those found in a tranny, or wheel bearing or other gearbox. (Lip seal type)

The seals are little rings that interlock at the ends almost like a tiny little piston rings.


The shaft rides in a sleave type bronze bearing and and is fed oil under pressure at the center of the bearing up on top. The oil flows through the bearing and then drains out and back to the crank case out the bottom.

The little seals really do very little except keep the "splash" from seeping through into either the turbine (Hot side) or the compressor (Cold side) of the unit.


Excessive oil coming from the compressor side of the turbo can be oil that was blown over the top out through the CDR or depending on how it was hooked up and was sucked back through the turbo inlet.

Engines that are "tired" and have excessive blowby will overload the CDR system (Crankcase vent setup)

Some folks will remove the CDR valve and hook up the vent directly to the turbo inlet. BAD PLAN :eek:

The Banks kit had a very good system for dealing with the crankcase venting, if if the Banks filter assembly was installed per instructions.

All this said, you should be able to determine where the oil came from.

If the compressor wheel is all black and sloppy, its a good bet that the oil was entering through the inlet and likely coming from the crankcase vent.

Leaking seals will usually see a sloppy mess showing on the exhaust (hot side) of the turbo.

A wobbly or worn out turbo will show excessive play in the turbine.
The turbo will have some movement in the internal parts but no a lot.

Now, to make a point here. The 6.2/6.5 engines are designed to run with a "SLIGHT" negative pressure in the crankcase. This is done to help keep stress off the seals, gaskets and such and prevent oil leaks.

The use of a CDR valve is necessary.
You can use the stock 6.2 type and plumb it in as per Banks instructions or you can use a 6.5 Valve in the RH Valve cover and then fashion a vent line to the inlet side of the air filter system.

The original Banks setup had the CDR vented to the bottom of the air filter housing that was part of the kit.

If you use a paper filter type setup, I would vent it to the turbo side of the air inlet and not before the filter.

Now to answer one of your original questions.

If the seals are bad, likely the turbo is toast too. A turbo rebuild shop can probably help at that point.

These units can run a Bazilllion miles and not wear out.


Hope this helps. Keep us posted.


Missy

[uglyjeep]

Thanks!

It looks like I may have a good turbo to use (and a not so good spare engine).

[JohnC]

When does it smoke? The problem may very well not be the turbo.

[uglyjeep]

I'm not sure exactly - I never drove it or saw it run - but I got the impression that it smoked constantly during normal driving.

I went out to double check today after reading what Robyn posted and the hot side is dry (and very sooty), there is no excessive shaft movement, and there is oil in the turbo intake.

[Robyn]

Your spare engine may very well be in fair shape but either suffered from stuck rings or possibly a poorly routed crankcase vent system as mentioned before.

Without running the engine its hard to tell.

Many 6.2/6.5 engines will have ther rings stick due to infrequent oil changes, improper type of oil or long periods of sitting.


Missy