F!@$!@ Oil filter is stuck! Please Help!

[tanman_2006]

Well I thought I would change my oil cooler lines on my truck and went to pull my filter off, AND ITS FREAKIN STUCK ON!

My truck is 4X4 and I don't have much room to get in there. I used my filter wrench and it is crushed now and split open. I shoved a screw driver through it thinking I could twist that way but thats not working due to the front drive shaft.

Any more ideas.

Can I just pull the housing off? If so is there enough room to get it all out at once. From what I understand I have to take the housing off to take the lines off anyways.

[john8662]

Pull the driveshaft, only 8 bolts 7/16 head.

Then after you get the filter off, then pull your adapter with new o-rings in hand to go back on when you're ready.

Been there too buddy.

[a5150nut]

Have you tried a dull cold chisel on the base of the filter?

[Robyn]

Yank the front shaft at the differential and drop it down to make room.

Use a large pair of channel lock pliers to grab the filter at its base and it will come off.

Its amazing how well those seals on the filter can BOND to the filter adapter base.

I have had the filter wrenches fold up trying to remove a stuck filter.

I always use a little graphite wheel bearing grease on the filter seal ring.

Keeps them from sticking.

Good luck

Missy

[tanman_2006]

Thanks ALL!

I will give it a quick try in the morning. My wife and I are leaving for a weekend get away at 10ish. If I dont get it then I'll take a crack at it sunday afternoon.

Its my first time to change the oil on this truck since I got it.

I had everything ready to pull the drive shaft before the temp dropped from 47-25 and the wind picked up (i am working in my drive way).

I don't have a big enough set of chanel locks but I will try the chisel, after i get the drive shaft out I will have enough room to fit both hands in there I think.

I've never had one stick this bad, I always put some clean oil on the seal and threads.

If nothing else I just want to get the new filter on for now. I think I will order a remote filter set up from Amsoil.

Thanks again!

[Pipeline Mechanic]

This is what I use;
http://images.grainger.com/B298_54/images/products/2ZPK4.JPG

Less than $10 at NAPA and worth every penny, make sure you get it as close to the threaded end as you can for best results.

Good Luck!

[JohnC]

Take the big bolt out of the oil filter adapter out and put the whole thing on the bench to work on it.

[6.5 Detroit Diesel]

Take the big bolt out of the oil filter adapter out and put the whole thing on the bench to work on it.

^^ just make sure you don't lose any of the seals in there.

[JohnC]

^^ just make sure you don't lose any of the seals in there.

Good time to replace them! 3 O-rings, IIRC. Part numbers are listed in the parts section of www.theDieselpage.com

[tanman_2006]

I made myself a fine little trophy.


http://i597.photobucket.com/albums/tt57/tanman_2006/Photo080.jpg


http://i597.photobucket.com/albums/tt57/tanman_2006/Photo081.jpg


Nuff said.

[tanman_2006]

I tried the chisel method and just made things look worse. That might work for some people but I couldn't get move that way.

I ended up stoping by Sears while we had our weekend in Oklahoma City and buying the biggest pair of channel locks on the shelf.

When I got home today I pulled out the front drive shaft and that was stubborn enough to piss me off by itself. After I got that off a few choice words and busted knuckles on the frame and I was celebrating success.

I had the new seals for the Filter adapter on hand for plan B.

Thanks for all the help.

[john8662]

Yeah, when I get to the end (like your photograph) I always say, "aw ha, F bomb you, I win!"

Basically "I Win"

[Robyn]

Whoa, that filter is really UUUUUUUUG LEEEEEEEE (Ugly)

The huge channel locks just always seem to lay in the tool box, BUTTTTTT when ya need them, nothing else will do.

Glad you got the little beast off. :D


Best

[6.5 Detroit Diesel]

working at the truck shop, i got a pair of modified plyers. they are about a foot long with curved jaws that fit around almost any filter. they have massive pointy teeth on the inside of each jaw that grip beautifully. never failed me yet.

[tanman_2006]

Yeah, when I get to the end (like your photograph) I always say, "aw ha, F bomb you, I win!"

Basically "I Win"


Those were my exact words.

My wife heard my evil laugh from inside. I went inside Trophey in hand and said I WON. She laughed and said "its not going on the wall like your deer!" I might make it a shelf or something for the garage. haha

[rigger]

I'm sure that when putting on a filter now you'll make sure it's not on too tight, especially on a remote filter plate. The last remote filter I had that I couldn't get off I had to remove the filter bracket to put it in a vice, use a razor knife to cut the gasket as best as possible and it still took the ol' screwdriver method to remove the filter. I thought the cast backing plate was going to break in the vise from all the twisting. I've never encountered a filter that tight in my life. I wanted to slap someone.

[tanman_2006]

Yeah, I tightened it on and climbed under the truck 2-3 time just to make sure I could get it off fairly easily. (anything is easier than what it was)

I hope to have the relocation kit by the time the next oil change comes around. I have the wife convinced the amsoil dual filter and longer intervals is worth it. I'll be driving 150 miles 5 days a week so I'll rack up the miles fast.

[tnt1197]

Channelock mod 215, big, mod 212, medium. 215's will remove Cat 1R-1808, either pair work well, both will rip a filter to shreds if used with sufficient enthusiasm. On a really tight filter, grip around the base seam and go nuts. I use the 12" on my K3500 and I'm limited to about 1/8th turn for the first 2 pulls and then the filter spins off by hand. I bought mine online direct from Channelock.

[trbankii]

Just fought with my oil filter this evening. Finally had to remove the adapter to take the assembly to the workbench to get the filter off.

I've had trouble in the past, but never this bad. It was a bear even clamped in the vise.

I'm thinking the dual bypass setup is worth it just to relocate that #*((&!! thing at this point.

[twinter]

I've gotten myself in trouble with this problem. Had a stuck oil filter, tried four different filter wrenches without success. I removed the driver's side front wheel, and pulled back one of the cowlings to get better access to the filter. I drove a large screwdriver through the filter and tried to use it as a long lever, but the filter just shreded. I got a good dent in the metal near the base, and tried to tap the filter around in a counter-clockwise direction with the big screwdriver and a hammer. Wouldn't budge. I eventually got the entire can torn off, and was left with the filter fitting still stuck on the adapter. At this point I had spent about 5 hours over two days trying to change the oil !! I finally pounded the screwdriver between the seal and base adapter. Once it was in there a little way, I pried on the screwdriver to try to break the seal. This did the trick. I was now successful at tapping the filter leftovers counter-clockwise. It was VERY tight, but it started moving, and eventually came loose and spun off. This is all good.

Now, the bad part: I was hoping the filter base adapter was steel, but it is apparently aluminum, because I have caused several significant gouges in it. There is no way a filter will seal now.

Any recommendations for obtaining a replacement adapter? Any idea of the cost? Are there online sources for such parts?

Thanks...

[1997 Suburban K2500, 6.5 TD]








Just fought with my oil filter this evening. Finally had to remove the adapter to take the assembly to the workbench to get the filter off.

I've had trouble in the past, but never this bad. It was a bear even clamped in the vise.

I'm thinking the dual bypass setup is worth it just to relocate that #*((&!! thing at this point.

[rameye]

Start cruisin the junkyards for 6.5's...you wont be dissapointed.

[DennisG01]

Twinter: LMC truck might have it, if you're looking for new.

I wonder if a local machine shop could fix it for you?

[twinter]

It looks like I can buy a new replacement from some web sites for $80-$100. The GM dealer wants $137. I'm calling every used parts place I can find in my area (Portland, OR), but no luck so far.
Todd

[DmaxMaverick]

For less than $80, you can have a machine shop resurface the adapter, and chrome plate it. You'd never have another issue of it sticking. And it would look really cool!

[rameye]

I looked at his picture...there is so much meat missing from the casting on one of those gouges I doubt if it could be cut down enough to still have a good strong mating surface.

Mine is pretty thin on the outside edges...

Any of those...remove your own parts junk yards around you??

You have to be able to score a 6.5 there..

[DennisG01]

Another option would be to install an oil filter block adapter, and then mount a remote oil filter mount in a more convenient place. I mounted mine under where my feet would be. The filter hangs perfectly vertical - SUPER easy to get to and remove. If I remember correctly, it cost me about $100 - $125 a few years ago... and that was using SS braided hose and the fancy-shmancy fittings.

[emt_hound]

I've got the same problem as the O.P. Filter seems welded on and I've distorted the heck out of it.

I'm planning to pull the drive shaft this weekend so I can really get at the filter. My question is what do I need to watch out for? This is not something I've done before and since parts are never less than 3 weeks away, I'd like to avoid doing "stupid" damage.

I guess I'm asking if it's really as easy as just pulling a few bolts?

Please help. Thanks!

[rameye]

EMT...

The situation is that in order to remove the filter adaptor the oil filter pretty much has to be removed. The adapter bolts in the center of the adapter from underneath where the filter seats. So in plain English...you cant see the bolt because the filter is covering it up.

I've never had on jam so bad I could put a strap/chain wrench on it and work it off...but I dont do this all day either. If it is that jammed on...maybe a judicious use of heat (fire ext. in close proximity...ABC of course) would be appropriate...I figure if the gasket starts to melt it will break loose.

I figure also if you have shaft out...using a cold chisel against the rim of the filter would get it moving also.

Fun aint it?

[trbankii]

The situation is that in order to remove the filter adaptor the oil filter pretty much has to be removed. The adapter bolts in the center of the adapter from underneath where the filter seats. So in plain English...you cant see the bolt because the filter is covering it up.

I'm guessing yours is 2WD? For the 4WD the filter points forward and the bolt for the adapter is in plain sight. That was the only way I got the filter off the last time - took the adapter off and put it in a vise so that I could twist the filter off of the adapter.

[rameye]

No I have a 4wd suburban...pretty sure thats the way it was...just did the motor swap this spring...swapping the filter adapter was on the agenda...

Then again I just did this on my vw...maybe that was the one like that...

disregard....brain failure

[emt_hound]

Well, it's bright and early Saturday morning here. I'm going to get cracking on it as soon as the dew evaporates.

The filter faces forward on my truck (or at least it screws in facing the front). I've only been able to work on it in the dark with a flashlight, so who know's what I'll see this morning.

I don't have access to a torch or even a vise right now. If I end up having to pull the adapter plate off, I may just end up ordering a new one.

Thanks for the advice, guys. I'm off to war. :)

[Robyn]

With the adapter still on the rig.

Get the driveline off, or at least out of the way.
Use a chain wrench right up close to the filters base and see if it will come off.

If this does not work, remove the filter base and get it out where you can work on it,

Saw the filter off about an inch out from the base, then carefully saw in lengthwise to get the filter to break apart.

I have done this twice on these.

Usually a chain wrench up close to the base will do the trick.

When reinstalling the filter, use some graphite wheelbearing grease on the filter rubber ring.

What happens is that oil alone will tend to wipe off when the filter is tightened and then the rubber sticks tight to the aluminum housing.

Good luck

Missy

[emt_hound]

Thanks, Missy. Alas, a chain wrench and a hack saw are not in my toolkit. The hacksaw is on its way, but it has to go via surface container over the ocean. :) I'll look into the chain wrench.

I just finished up about 10 minutes ago. I've been using an oil wrench I got for Christmas from Griots Garage years and years ago. It's sort of like a pair of channel locks but not as long. The biggest hassle has been trying to keep a grip on the darned filter while still having room to bring it around. Over the last few days, I managed to deform the can and tear it open in a few spots...so I also had that nice drip, drip, drip of old oil covering everything. Finally had a moment where I got the filter to move about 1/8 of an inch.

After that, I jacked up the truck and went in over the tire. Managed to jam my screwdriver through it and bring it around another inch or so. Then I went back underneath and was able to break the whole thing loose with the screwdriver. The filter looks like it was attacked by a pack of diesel-vampires.

Whew. I'm glad I didn't have to drop the front drive shaft. I'd read everything I could find on it but if I did something to the U-joint, I'd really be up a creek for several weeks until I could get a new one out here.

On a side note, I'll bet I'm the only guy on this forum using 15W40 from "Libya Oil" :D

I'm going to post another thread. I have two diagnostic questions that I'd love to get some experienced opinions on.

Thanks again to everybody!

[twinter]

I looked at his picture...there is so much meat missing from the casting on one of those gouges I doubt if it could be cut down enough to still have a good strong mating surface.

Mine is pretty thin on the outside edges...

Any of those...remove your own parts junk yards around you??

You have to be able to score a 6.5 there..


Well, it's been a couple weeks, and I'm still not back on the road. After lots and lots of calling junk yards in the Portland, OR area I finally found an outfit called Engine Rebuilders Supply in Troutdale. They had an oil filter adapter off a GM 6.5L diesel. I drove the hour and a half to them and bought it for $25. It compared pretty well, though not exactly to the busted one I brought with me. I ordered a set of seals from gmpartsgiant.com, but when I got them and went to install them on the junkyard unit, I found that the internals of the big bolt were different. Orifices are in different locations, and they use a completely different set of o-rings. I spent the day today visiting two GM dealers, Napa, Autozone, and Knechts, but no one has the o-rings required, or an equivalent generic o-ring. It seems the junk yard adapter is off a different model year, or for a completely different application (hummer?).

Oh, on the subject of machining the damaged adapter, rameye is right: One of the gouges I put in the thing is too deep. I don't think you can machine that far and still have things work properly.

I am now considering the idea of the remote oil filter. If anyone has specific recommendations (and costs), I would appreciate it.

[JohnC]

There were two styles of adapter. The early one had a big copper washer and 2 O-rings, IIRC. You need the matching "bolt". They were prone to leaking and not desirable.

Can you weld up the gouge and machine it flat? (I forget if it's cast iron or aluminum). If it's cast iron, maybe build it up with brass?

Most remote adapters will work. Some say "not for Diesel" but I haven't found any issues. I think they are CYA and because the Internationals and Cummins had completely different filter setups.

[twinter]

Thanks JC,
You got me thinking about the two styles. I went to gmpartsgiant.com and looked up the oil filter adapter for a '94 suburban (I think that was the first year the 6.5L was available). Sure enough, on the '94 the big bolt takes two identical o-rings and a gasket (copper washer?). The gmpartsgiant.com site shows that starting with the 95 model year, the new design calls for a small upper o-ring and a large lower o-ring, which is what my '97 burb came with.

I appreciate you bringing to my attention that the earlier design was prone to leaks (hence the redesign). I think I will spend the $5-$10 to get the seals for my junkyard unit, and keep and eye on it for leaks, for now. That will get me back on the road quickly. In the mean time, I'll keep searching for the newer adapter, or eventually be able to pay the $100-$140 for a new adapter. Or, maybe I'll invest in a remote oil filter setup. Removing the oil filter adapter was surprisingly easy, event with having to disconnect the drive train to get to it.

To address your question about repairing by original adapter: I was disappointed to discover that the adapter is cast aluminum. I'm not very knowledgeable about welding aluminum. I don't know if it could be filled and machined back down again. Since I don't have the knowledge or equipment to do it, it seems it would be somewhat expensive--close to or more than the cost of buying a new GM replacement. But I'm just guessing.

Thanks!

[rameye]

Cast aluminum is tough to get a good weld...It's so full of impurities that it starts to fizzle and pop once you light it up.

I personally have had limited luck with that aluminum brazing rod...Ive tried it lots of different ways and could never get it to flow and fill like the guy on TV.

I learned on a TIG machine... but I bet some of the old time flame weldors could make it happen.