Stalling DTC 13 without previous failures

[roizpatagonia]

Hello,
Is it possible that driving in normal conditions with te AC on at HI the engine suddenly stalls? ( with no previous warnings). Checked the DTC and gives me 13, so I will try replacing the ESO. How should I bypass the solenoid to see if it is the problem?. How is the procedure for the replacement of the Actuator do I really need a special tool? Any tip will be sincerely appreciated.
Regards, Daniel.

[Robyn]

HI

You can't bypass the solenoid as it is screwed into the top of the IP and has a spring loaded plunger that stops fuel flow.

The shut off solenoid (ESO) really does little under most conditions.
When the power is shut off the electronics shuts off and the engine stops.
The ESO does close but the real reason that the ESO is there is to prevent a complete runaway in the event that there is a failure in the drive by wire system or the PMD.

Its sort of a fail safe unit.

Depending on which style is installed it either requires an allen key (wrench) or a small box end wrench and the unit unscrews from the pump.

Just clean the area to make sure no dirt falls inside when you remove the ESO and then screw in the new one.

Make sure the wire connections are clean too.

Simple task that takes only a few minutes to do.

Best

Robyn

[roizpatagonia]

Thanks Robyn,
I replaced the ESO, replaced the PMD ( I pluged the new one to test it, but left the thin black wires of the old one yet), also changed the fuel filter. It still doesn't start and gives the same 13 code error,
Regards

[JohnC]

If you cleared the code and it recured and the sloenoid is new, then the fault must be in the wiring. The PCM monitors the voltage and current on the solenoid circuit, and apparently isn't happy...

[roizpatagonia]

I didn't clear the code I read it from the lamp with a clip. I visually checked the wiring and seems OK. The code of the new PMD is 6 and the old one can't see it because i didn't take the intake manifold, I have doubts about the two black wires and the red one that aren't connected yet, if there are still connected from the old PMD should it be any problem? To put the new ones I have to take the intake manifold I have no other option ,do I? because I have only the top gasket , do you think I'll need more gaskets? It's very strange for me how it stalled, It worked perfect and only have the AC on and suddenly stopped without any advice is this normal? any clue from this? Thanks

[JohnC]

All the wires in the connector on the old PMD must be moved to the new one. Usually we disconnect the cable at the PMD and pull it up to where we can connect the new PMD or the extension cable to it. If it is not all connected, you should get more codes.

If you are installing a new wiring harness, those wires are probably the hot and ground for the fuel solenoid and the logic ground for the PCM. It will not run without them.

If I recall, you can put the jumper in to read the codes, fully depress both the brake and the throttle then turn the key on and the codes will clear. The light will flash 1 - 2 when the codes are clear, then release the pedals, pull out the jumper and turn the key off in that order. You may have to try several times to get them to clear. I think if the PCM is displaying codes it will not clear them, and it sometimes takes a while to get out of that mode.

[roizpatagonia]

Thanks for your help. I checked the wires and started up pressing the brake and the accelerator and voila!. I was confused about the PMD because the last time it failed it advertised before and cooling it with cold water temporally solved the problem. I'll think I'll have a spare Dtech , Thanks again!